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HPI on a fresh import ?? or is there something else?

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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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Default HPI on a fresh import ?? or is there something else?

???
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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hpi report useless on so called fresh imports, ( dont like the term fresh import) u really do need the japanese auction report, any honest seller/dealer will have it and and should be forth coming if they dont have any thing to hide, sorry if i am repeating what i have said or telling u to suck eggs but i am only trying to help u find a good one and not a clocked and bodged pill , which there are alot of about at the moment.i have always sourced my own imports direct from japan through a very reputed dealer who will not oversell any thing , when i am looking for him to find me a car he normally comes up with a few to choose from always at least grade 4bb with service history and a few nice subtle extras, if u r going to buy one thats already here look at at least 10/15 examples so u get a bit of a feel for them and ask the seler/dealer all the usual prying questions, good luck !
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 06:55 PM
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the one im looking at wasnt bought at auction,so no sheet.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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Also,with these auction sheets, why does it matter if the sheets missing, IF, the car is Mint and looks o.k and the tests we do prove to ourselves its all good then why the big who ha if the sheets missing ?

if it was a dog, then maybe its been cleaned/tidied once over here, afterall, isnt that what all traders do with auction p/x cars to sell them on ?
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by The Rig
the one im looking at wasnt bought at auction,so no sheet.
That may be true.... its its almost certainly bollocks. As I replied to knobber on the other thread, there are 30,000 vehicles sold through auction every day in Japan. The likelyhood that a car was sourced in this manner, whilst possible, is very slim. By choice an importer looks for stock in the most reputable place, which in Japan is in an auction house. If you scrat about buying odd cars from an 'agent' then the odd direct deal with a trader may suit, but its far from the norm and the person who suggested it didnt know his **** from his elbow.


Simon
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 08:20 PM
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rig, why not dig a bit deeper and go for something like this http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=520130

i've got no conection to the sale by the way, just getting dis-heartened at the rough old motors you seem to be chasing.

you've stuck yourself in at the bum end of the market mate, get a small loan and get a peach instead of an old dog
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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I agree with Hoskib; you havent asked about a decent car yet; theyre all cheap skanky ****e. Either look for obviously decent cars or save up until you can afford one...
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 09:26 PM
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thats a bit harsh my man, but the truth does hurt, a high graded classic scoob on the road fully converted and with basic service and cat 1 fresh from japan is going to stand most people between 4500 to 5000 minimum, obviously sti and ltd editions will cost more so a budget rethink might be order of the day, i must remind myself that friday nights r for relaxing and not dodging around my keybord!
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 06:16 AM
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Hmmm,would be nice to save more, but hence,no chance, so its crap im stck with !

never mind

cheers all.......
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 10:50 PM
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GC8.....knobber eh , ask ya mam and she'll tell you all about my **** mr w@nker
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by esp ltd
GC8.....knobber eh , ask ya mam and she'll tell you all about my **** mr w@nker
Fuck off you cunt.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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what the hell happened here?


Bit of history going on?
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by EVOLUTION


Bit of history going on?
I think it's the lack of history that they're arguing about.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:28 AM
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i, the door was wide open for that one....


good one mate lol


john
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by The Rig
???
I saw this and thought it may be useful to you

Originally Posted by MazingerZ
Scale
1= BAD
5=Like new
(be aware of class A...this means that the car has been in an accident and has been repaired)

Aim for a 4 (and B or C interior), don't go below 3.5 (some auction houses wouldn't grade a car 4 if it has more than 100 000 KM on the clock).

For an STi look for the model code to have an E or D on the VIN plate, red top (dead give away), pink badge on the front grille...

check this for more info

http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/wrx.html

other than that use the search facility, it has all been covered in the past (thanks for this precius information)

Koji

PS. don't forget to do a BIMTA check.... www.bimta.co.uk
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 08:02 AM
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thing is with Bimta checks, they take about 2 weeks and if you want to buy a car, you cant really wait 2 weeks for it to still be around.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by The Rig
thing is with Bimta checks, they take about 2 weeks and if you want to buy a car, you cant really wait 2 weeks for it to still be around.

Not true, during May I did 2 Bimta checks (a full one and a milage only one), they came back within a week, I believe the service that Bimta is providing is excellent peace of mind for us here in the UK.

Put a deposit to secure the car and agree some terms to cover your back. Remember it only takes a week and £23.50 for milage and £45 for milage and stolen check (not really useful, as all the cars are checked by the DVLA agains the interpol stolen vehicles database).... if you don't do it you may later regret it.

cheers

Koji Kabuto
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