Any way of checking?

 

Recently had mine off and 1 of the header gaskets and the up pipe to turbo gasket had soot marks showing that they had been leaking.

I had a feeling that things were not quite right, but couldn't diagnose what was what before taking things apart.

Added some exhaust gasket compound when I put them back - not the most professional I know but hey.

Sorry can't help, just letting you know they can leak.

 

You will probably hear it but to be sure, get the car up in the air and run your hand round the up-pipe gasket area. Not on the surface just a few mm away unless you want a burn. The header to up-pipe is the one that goes most often. The turbo to up-pipe seldom fails. Have the engine running while you do this, preferably with someone blipping the throttle.
Also look for soot round the up-pipe joint.

 

Another method: get your assistant to cover the backbox exit briefly and you should hear it.

 

Cheers guys. Will give that a go. Only assistant to hand at the moment is my cat

 

Stuff it up the back box then. Might need a bath afterwards to get rid of the soot.

 

PMSL

 

he's not playing ball at the moment

 

Not really important on a black and white one. If you want to save on water put him in the dish washer on a low setting with the tea time dishes.

 

LOL at Harvey!

Mine leaked before Xmas Bob. Gaskets were sooty etc, only found when i took the headers off to re-wrap them after my small 'off' at Harewood.
I used new OEM gaskets (used new Grouppe s one first time round). Didn't know they were leaking beforehand....

Tight as a duck's ar@se now, or should that be a cats...

Graham

 

Decided that Mr Cat may not have been happy being shoved up the exhaust so took it to APi. Diagnosed as cracked/split headers at collector. Gruppe-s V2s.

Will see if I can get a fix before Rotorstock.

 

Tubular headers of good quality, which yours are, often split because of excess heat which can be a sign of weak mixture or even excess over wrapping. after they are TIG welded, if they go again, I am afraid the headers are scrap as it happens frequently there after and continually taking headers off and welding is a PITA. I know. Sorry to bear potentially expensive bad news.
Ported O/E headers are more durable.

Can the cat swim? More rain forecast for this week-end with localised flooding.

 

The issues of heat and wrapping was mentioned by APi. Would perhaps leave the wrap off at the collector or wrap just once.

Its interesting to note that with some cars its a recurring problem. Anything to do with excessive rocking or anything (worn mounts)?

If ported headers gave the same results as the current setup I would buy a set in a heartbeat

We'll see how it holds out after being welded.

Bob


PS. Weather is always worse op north

 

Bob : There should only be one layer of heat wrap in the first place. Double or tripple wrapping is a no no. on DEI heat wrap, there is a stitch down the side to show the overlap. Maybe 8mm.

The headers are attached to the cylinder heads ie the engine. The up-pipe links the headers to the turbo which is also connected to the engine. Whatever movement there is on the engine is not really relavent as headers, up-pipe and turbo are attached to the engine and not to any other fixed point.

Properly ported O/E headers and up-pipe at your current power lavel will equal or outperform any tubular headers I have tried to date.

I hope the break was a one off and the welding is a remedy for you but if it goes again, the senario is as I have outlined above. Good luck with it.

Was that typo for up North or oop North?

 

What about ceramic coating.....and no wrap on tubular headers, is this enough ??

 

oop North. .........sun is shining everywhere else

Pavlo has welded up the headers for now so we'll see how it holds out.

 

Cheers mate. Nice and sunny hear. dog is laid out sunbathing. Now for the Gran Prix. I see that arrogant cheating German geezer got his deserts.