i need to change the oil on my recently aquired scooby, and a novice when it come to scoobies or fast cars, brother in law is gonna do it
but i need to get the oil

on scoobyparts.com they have 10w60 oil, fully synthetic
does it need to be this, and whats the difference between that and 0w40 fully synthenic or 5w40
what does the dealers put in, anyone know?

plus anyone know the cheapest place to get some, an air filter that will improve the performance possible as well and an oil filter

any help would be gravely appreciated or any pointers
thanks in advance

 

Year, model, EU/JDM, mods, driving style?

 

opps sorry
MY01, wrx, EU, no mods, driving style? normal for a 28 yr old male

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/

Do a search on 'what oil' on here and exclude all results that are from pslewis

There are many mixed opinions. I use 10w40 and 10w50 fully synthetic (not at the same time).

Here is an article I wrote to give people an insight into oils: http://www.scoobymagazine.com/conten...ews/smpdf3.pdf

 

Opie Oils, as Highlander says above are a very good supplier. I use Silkolene ProS 5W40 from them. I tried the 10W50 but found it a bit thick on start-up and took too long to warm through. Make sure your bro'in-law follows the **** Scooby procedure Prime the filter, disconnect CPS etc.

 

thanks 4 help, but i cant find anything much on the opie site
plus search on where, on here, scoobynet, i did, for what oil, and it excludes what, and comes up wiv loads of threads not even about oil

;-(

soz, aint got a clue

 

where can i find this procedure

whats the **** procedure mean, and where do i find, i tryed serching, but guess what that turned up

so a 10w40 or a 5w40 would be fine then, not a 15w50
i tryed reading but i still dont understand, soz

 

Sorry SWTWRX, you can contact Simon from Opie Oils by PM'ing him on here. He posts as "oilman".

The "****" procedure involves....

1. warm the engine
2. whilst warming, prefill (prime) the new filter, and keep doing so until it won't take any more oil. This may take 2-4 go's as it soaks into the filtration material inside.
3. drain old oil (with oil cap and dipstick removed)
4. remove old filter
5. fit new filter and replace sump nut with a new compression washer
6. fill with new oil
7. disconnect crank position sensor (this is located directly below the alternator, and will stop the engine firing so as to allow the new oil to be pushed around the engine with no load)
8. turn over engine for 20-30 seconds
9. refit CPS connector
10. start engine and leave to run for 10 minutes (don't worry about the CEL (check engine light))
11. switch off and leave to stand for 10 minutes
12. check oil level and top-up if req'd
13. start engine approx 5 times to kill the CEL
14. take car for a gentle drive for 10 minutes
15. leave stood for a further 10 mins and recheck levels and for leaks

The only real difference to any other oil change are the priming of the filter and the turning over with the CPS disconnected. This is to ensure all the delicate internal surfaces have a coating of fresh oil before putting them under load. There is a history of these engine going pop just after a service, and it is believed to be due to the flat 4 configuration resulting in tiny big end bearings. The flat 4 configuration results in less stress being put on them, but their inherrant small size means that if the film of lubricating oil is removed they very quickly break down the case hardened bearing shell and the engine can be ruined.

A guy called PS Lewis will be along soon to dispell this as myth, but just ignore him. He is a know nothing troll who given half a chance will have you filling your car with oil dredged from the bottom of a Grimsby tar pit.

HTH

 

Forget about disconnecting the crank sensor, the forces required to turn the engine over at such a low speed are greater than the forces at tick-over, so it's best to just start the engine and let it run for a while before moving off.

 

The Oil Change according to the Old Ladies on here:-

1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.

2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)

3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.

4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.

5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.

6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.

7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.

8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.

9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!

10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.

11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.

12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!

OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-

Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!

Basically, do not waste your life ...............

This is the **** Oil Change Committee at one of their meetings:-



Pete

 

well i am new on here and i will be going with the **** procedure. i am getting a 95wrx. due to arrive in the next week. I am scared of it going pop so the slightest thing i can do to stop it i will.

 

If you look like the geeks in the photo, or are a bit effeminate who craps themselves at the thought of an ant nip .............. then you go ahead!!

Pete

 

lol funny you should say that i do need to see trinny and susanna

To be honest pete, what halm is it going to do... apart from take 30 mins more?

I am new to impreza's. I am not buying a new one and i don't really want the cost of a rebuild. I am talking about an import too. I will do everything possible to keep it running well.

 

Turning the engine over without starting it does FAR more damage than just starting it!!

Do as Subaru say - just start the car

Do as the MAIN Dealers do - just start the car

Ignore the Independants who rely on the stupidity of Scooby owners and charge extra for the **** oil change!

Pete

 

 

 

Think this might be the best oil thread yet!? Especially the full **** procedure (pslewis - top reply mate).

Graham - do not follow the **** procedure, it will not make the slightest difference! If you refill and start the car within say an hour, there will be more oil on the internals than if you were starting the car first thing in the morning (less drain time).

The only thing you need to do is empty, remove filter, fit new filter, fill after refitting sump plug (obvious, but everyone forgets at least once) to max level on dipstick, start car and idle for a minute (rough guide - not absolute), switch off, let sit for time it takes to smoke a *** (couple of minutes - healthy ones), top up again to max level, job done.

Through experience, you can fill once by going over the max level by the amount it takes to fill new filter, which I find is better for my tar soaked lungs!

Stop panicking like a hairdresser in a rain shower and drive the **** off the bloody thing!

 

God Pete, you really do need some new material! Do you save all the cack that you write, and then cut and paste??

 

I take it tyresqueal, you havn't heard of people clogging up their boost solenoid by over-filling? Happened to me once. Just fill to 3-4mm below the 'full' mark.
I must admit, I don't do the cps think, think it does more damage to the starter motor than anything else!

 

Good point Chris, but in my experience the boost sol issue arises through overfilling when the filter is already full and not empty. Maybe there are others out there who can share their experiences and I might learn something new whilst avoiding this problem through skill rather than luck.

 

I'd use AS Peformance (Alyn)

http://www.asperformance.com

Opie oils let me down twice in the space of two weeks