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Clarification on clutch bleeding

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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 01:26 PM
  #1  
big mike's Avatar
big mike
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Default Clarification on clutch bleeding

Sorry to drag this old chesnut up again. I've read the other posts in this section and have bled the clutch to try and cure a difficulty in changing gears. Whilst bleeding clutch the pedal jammed to the floor and had to be lifted by hand. Now whilst it is easier (still not perfect!) to change gears, the pedal was sticking half way down the pedal stroke. Well the pedal now usually returns to the top of its stroke but the top part of the movement is dead, nothing seems to go on until half way down. Also to make matters worse the clutch has started to slip as the turbo comes on boost.

So in light of the suggestions from 911 threads and others I have the following questions:

1) Should the slave cylinder (when looking form the front of the car) be pushed in or held out?

2) is the slave cylinder complicated to take apart? and what you need to be careful?

Thanks for your help guys,

Mike
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 03:44 PM
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DeanF
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Originally Posted by big mike
Sorry to drag this old chesnut up again. I've read the other posts in this section and have bled the clutch to try and cure a difficulty in changing gears. Whilst bleeding clutch the pedal jammed to the floor and had to be lifted by hand. Now whilst it is easier (still not perfect!) to change gears, the pedal was sticking half way down the pedal stroke. Well the pedal now usually returns to the top of its stroke but the top part of the movement is dead, nothing seems to go on until half way down. Also to make matters worse the clutch has started to slip as the turbo comes on boost.

So in light of the suggestions from 911 threads and others I have the following questions:

1) Should the slave cylinder (when looking form the front of the car) be pushed in or held out?

2) is the slave cylinder complicated to take apart? and what you need to be careful?

Thanks for your help guys,

Mike
When bleeding, the slave cylinder should be wedged / held closed, Pushed back towards the bulkhead as far as possible ( I used a piece of wood )(much easier with the TMIC off) to create pressure for the master cylinder & stop the pedal sticking down, Slave cylinder not difficult to take apart, If you means its inards ?? then circlip pliers required,
Check theres a sprong on the slave cylinder gearbox Brkt, this often breaks & is missing

Dean
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 05:13 PM
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big mike
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I think that is where I went wrong! Fairly sure I had slave cylinder pulled forward!

Spring was definately in place yesterday. but seemed fairly pathetic. Should it be quite stiff?

Mike
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