Removal of Gearbox
Anyone give a briefing of the main steps involved in this ?
and also upon taking the intercooler off theres a number underneath (12 digits) so when I get another box would it have to match up to that number or ? its a 98uk car.
cheers in advance
and also upon taking the intercooler off theres a number underneath (12 digits) so when I get another box would it have to match up to that number or ? its a 98uk car.
cheers in advance
Drop the downpipe and exhaust, remove intercooler.
Disconnect the speed sensor and ground cables from the box.
Release the plate covering the driveshaft in front of the rear diff. Drop the driveshaft. Disconnect the selector mechanism.
Remove the front driveshafts.
Undo the bolts around the bell housing.
Pull backwards and down with two big or three medium blokes with the car up on a ramp.
Refit as reverse.
I probably called them all the wrong bits, T-uk will amplify
Disconnect the speed sensor and ground cables from the box.
Release the plate covering the driveshaft in front of the rear diff. Drop the driveshaft. Disconnect the selector mechanism.
Remove the front driveshafts.
Undo the bolts around the bell housing.
Pull backwards and down with two big or three medium blokes with the car up on a ramp.
Refit as reverse.
I probably called them all the wrong bits, T-uk will amplify
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Also you need to use a drift to knock a roll pin out of the drive shaft..
release clutch arm by removing starter remove hex plug behind... insert m8 or m10 bolt screw in and pull hard..
also mark the flanges before you split the prop, just to be on the safe side with balancing... so it all goes back together in line..
David
release clutch arm by removing starter remove hex plug behind... insert m8 or m10 bolt screw in and pull hard..
also mark the flanges before you split the prop, just to be on the safe side with balancing... so it all goes back together in line..
David
on refit the release bearing fork needs to be located equally on both sides.I have done a few of these now and never had a problem but JB's clutch was far from smooth.
I gave andyf a call and he tries to align this before the box is fully in whereas I always bolt the box in and then align from the top through the fork hole but you really only see one side this way.
I had actually taken it for granted that we had damaged the bearing as we had problems getting the old box out and the new in(box was fouling the earlier model year turbo housing).anyway with a few good torches and a screw driver we realigned the fork and it was fine and saved john buying another release bearing.
[Edited by T-uk - 2/6/2003 1:52:20 PM]
I gave andyf a call and he tries to align this before the box is fully in whereas I always bolt the box in and then align from the top through the fork hole but you really only see one side this way.
I had actually taken it for granted that we had damaged the bearing as we had problems getting the old box out and the new in(box was fouling the earlier model year turbo housing).anyway with a few good torches and a screw driver we realigned the fork and it was fine and saved john buying another release bearing.
[Edited by T-uk - 2/6/2003 1:52:20 PM]
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