John,

I have to ask...what's the difference between the 2 then?

[Edited by Tony_W - 10/8/2002 2:20:10 PM]

 

Does anyone know where to buy a 3 Port (or 2 port) Solenoid from?

I've searched at length on the internet but can't find a supplier anywhere.

(Sorry John [Banks], I've decided to build a boost-controller system with an electronic switch between "factory" and "high boost" setting. If it proves troublesome, I'll revert to just the Dawes)

Any info anyone has on where to get solenoids..much appreciated.

Failing that it will be a hunt down the scrapyard!

Tony

 

Tony you can purchase 3 port solenoids from BRD

 

Quite a difference between a 3 port switching solenoid and a 3 port PWM solenoid. Have a look at the Festo and Norgren sites. Good luck finding something at the right price - I didn't when I tried.

 

One is for PWM and the other is switching. Do a google search. I did say KISS There was a good reason, you'll find out when you get lost in lists of solenoids and freak at the prices. There is a Dawes solenoid, can't remember how many ports.

 

You were right (as usual) John! £125 each....

Looks like I'll be going down the scrappers, as I reckon I could get a couple of Nissan Air solenoid valves pretty cheap and test them.

I shall continue my search

 

There must be someone on here knows where to source one from?

www.grainger.com (in U.S) does them for $20 plus shipping but you have to be a company to order parts from them...

Has anyone got any ideas?

 

I built a simple DIY 2nd stage boost using:

3 port solenoids x2
Dawes
DIY FCD
Relay
In Car Switch

Worked really well

Got my 3 Port Solenoids from Grade A Subaru

 

Chris, (& John Banks)

I have sourced some 2 port solenoid valves this afternoon, after searching for over 4 hours in total on the internet. They are priced at £11 each plus delivery..a bargain!

What do you mean by DIY FDC ?

My plan is to put a switch in the car which will energise a relay to then energise the 2 x 2 port solenoids which will cut out the "normal" boost control to allow the Dawes to come into circuit.

I wasn't aware of anything else that is needed (DIY FDC). Perhaps you can put me straight on that?

Also, how close did you mount the solenoids/relays to the wastegate/turbo?

I'm wondering about placing all the bits in a plastic case and fixing either next to the intercooler (but worried about heat from turbo, but shouldn't get spiking) or over by the boost solenoid (away from heat but may get spiking). where have you fixed yours?

Thanks for the help, look forward to your reply.

Tony

 

FCD = Fuel Cut Defender

A better description is probably - Fuel Cut Lifter (either a pneumatic or electronic device that *raises* rather than *removes* the standard Fuel Cut ie it *tricks* the ECU into allowing above normal boost whilst still keeping some safety).

A FCL can simply be acheived my a pneumatic device that *bleeds* pressure away from the MAP Sensor or an Electronic Device that alters the output of the MAP Sensor before it enters the ECU.

In my Car Pre MY97 - using two 3 port solenoids (and a DIY electronic FCD) it was easy to switch between the standard boost & my own uplifted (MBC) Dawes controlled boost.

[Note - probably need to display the next section in EDIT MESSAGE mode to get the gist]

Standard My96 Pnuematics :

Turbo Nipple -- MY96 Subaru 3 port Boost Solenoid -- Wastegate Actuator


DIY *fiddled* My96 Pnuematics :

Turbo Nipple -- MY96 Subaru 3 port Boost Solenoid -- Wastegate Actuator
: :
: :
3 port Booost Solenoid 3 port Booost Solenoid
: :
: :
---------------------- Dawes -------------------------

Hope that helps,

Chris

[Edited by Chris.Palmer - 10/11/2002 11:05:50 PM]

[Edited by Chris.Palmer - 10/11/2002 11:26:57 PM]

 

as JB says, beware of solenoids that can't switch fast enough.

Factory ecu switches at about 12Hz, so a bog standard solenoid will not keep up.

Delco do one I think, unsure of costs involved.

paul

 

If this is just being used as a 2nd stage boost - ie In-Car manual switch to change between manual & up-lifted boost then their really isn't an issue.

The Switching Frequency is only an issue when connected to the Std. Subaru ECU or other EBC that drastically increases the Standard Boost Solenoid duty cycles

Cheers,

Chris

[updoted to fox sum spolling mastics ]

[Edited by Chris.Palmer - 10/11/2002 11:33:12 PM]

 

Thanks for the replies Chris and Pavlo.

I'm not really concerned about switching times. It will just be a manual change-over from normal setting to extra boost.

I don't intend raising the boost too much above normal anyway so I'm not planning on tricking the ECU.

I'm now waiting on my solenoids arriving. Pipes, t-pieces, relays all sourced and ready !

 

I was more worried about giving a PWM solenoid a DC signal = possible overheating.

 

I believe the solenoids are unpowered=open, therefore the normal setting should be no power = factory boost in my setup. If I want to play for a short time, then the solenoids will be powered up to allow the Dawes to come into action

The solenoids are used by a company to switch a vehicle over to LPG, so they should have been tested fairly comprehensively.

If they don't work, I'll switch back to a standard Dawes setup with it in circuit all the time.

 

They sound great - they are used as switching solenoids originally not PWM.

 

tony w

where did you find the solenoids.. i am looking for cheap switchable solenoids too..

 

psuter,

Have a look at :

http://www.lpg-kits.com/valves.htm

Their home page gives contact details:

http://www.lpg-kits.com


The only thing to be aware of is that they fail to shut when un-energised. I wanted them to fail open so I could have the normal boost in operation with the circuit turned off, but I shall adjust my electrical circuit (via a different relay) to achieve the same.

Tony



[Edited by Tony_W - 10/17/2002 8:47:57 PM]