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2003 Blobeye spec c feels unstable at motorway speeds
Recently took the car (recent purchase) for alignment and whilst it feels ok at low speeds, it feels pretty unstable at motorway speeds, rather like the car is in high winds. This is the first Impreza I've had with a quick rack on it so not sure if that has anything to do with it. I don't really understand geometry settings at all so was wondering if anyone could shed any light on the print out? The car is on Greddy coilovers all round if this helps. Cheers.
That's a really lazy alignment, if those are the final values. The figures each side should be matched almost exactly by an oppo who's good at his job. Tell me that's the "before" print out.
I might be reading that incorrectly but it looks to me like the camber on one side is way out on the NSF, and also pretty out on the NSR. Did they try to adjust it? That would certainly be contributing to the lack of stability on motorways although of course this could also be indicative of something bent, or failed bushes on that side too which is then leading to the 'out' readings.
That's a really lazy alignment, if those are the final values. The figures each side should be matched almost exactly by an oppo who's good at his job. Tell me that's the "before" print out.
Sadly, that's the after print out, I'll be taking it back then.
What are the ideal values for a road set up on coilovers so I've got some sort of ammo when I go back?
Thanks fellas.
Actual values are down to personal choice, but normally involve toe being neutral, or a tiny bit of toe in front, rear, or both. Maximising camber gives better contact at high forces, at the expense of low speed driving. It really depends what you use the car for, and how long you want your tyres to last. Having a hatch, with different rear suspension, mine wouldn't be suitable for a blob.
But what should be consistent is that the values are matched. Most average aligners simply get the reading into the green area; yours hasn't even managed that. There may be a valid reason, like seized bolts, but they should have informed you of that.
A good 4 wheel alignment should be nearly exactly matching, whatever values are chosen; Unfortunately cost is not linked to quality, it's totally down to operator skill and pride, and it helps if they are used to Subarus, or at minimum performance models.
These are my last values, note how close they match
I wouldn't let them touch it again. Try and get your money back ( you paid for an alignment, and they gave you a print out proving it isn't aligned!) Ask any local club where they recommend, or tell us what region you live in, and someone here will recommend. I travel over 100 mile round trip for mine.
Edit; forgot to mention that some coilovers cause more harm than good on a road car.
Last edited by hedgecutter; Mar 25, 2021 at 09:18 AM.
That’s shocking if it really is the “after” printout. Your toe figures are all over the place which is why you’re wandering in a straight line. Camber is at least matched but you ideally need more at the front to maximise cornering.
Aim for the following:
Front toe in 5 minutes or 0.05 each side
Rear toe in 10 minutes or 0.10 each side
Front camber 1 degree 10 minutes or 1.10 each side
Rear camber is ok as you are and not adjustable without camber bolts
I read the upper rows as toe and the lower rows as camber, but looking at it again I do believe it’s the other way round! Surely they could just add the words Toe and Camber - would make it so much easier to read.
That makes more sense. And an “alignment” sold by many garages is a toe adjust only, which it appears they have done. You need a “geometry” to adjust camber and caster.
£60, £15 per adjustment, they have done my 530d for the last 9 years and it feels perfect at all speeds although on standard suspension and so trusted them with this.
This car has adjustable camber plates, would adjusting these have any impact?
Ok four adjustments = toe only. Go back and ask (pay) them to sort the camber as well, using the figures above. Not sure why your rear left is showing so much camber though unless someone has fitted aftermarket camber bolts at the rear.
They should have mentioned to you at the time...not send you away without pointing such such drastic camber differences side to side.
Yeah, a full adjustment is usually a lot more but that doesn't excuse sending a car out with camber that's *that* far out, they should at least have looked. As an example I used a place near me who is well regarded (before I started doing it myself) and paid £120 for camber/toe adjustments and they got it absolutely spot on. From seeing mention of camber plates I'm guessing you have coilovers, so that's another potential for issues as if it's too low it'll be causing additional bump steer because the steering geo will be out.
Can you also measure the distance in mm from centre of wheel to the centre of the arch in a vertical line? This will give indication as to whether that could also be contributing to your issues. With camber plates you may also have camber bolts on the back, in which case at the front you have two ways of modifying the camber and at the back one (stock it's not adjustable). As the rear camber is over a degree on one side I suspect that either something is out of shape, or you do have camber bolts and they've been badly adjusted by eye.
When I got it done many many years ago I was told I needed to have it done at a place that uses a "hunter" machine. The closest one to me was Kwik Fit. They sorted it out and I think it was around £60. That was to factory spec using factory suspension.
When I got it done many many years ago I was told I needed to have it done at a place that uses a "hunter" machine. The closest one to me was Kwik Fit. They sorted it out and I think it was around £60. That was to factory spec using factory suspension.
Bot sure if thats still the case
Hunter is the big name one but it's still possible to do three way alignment with manual tools if the person knows what they're doing. Hunter is foolproof enough that with a little training the apprentice should be able to get reasonable results although that said the experienced person will have all the little tricks to sort out problem cars, like loosening off subframe/suspension components etc to physically shift them to even things up rather than just maxing out one adjuster and minimising another.
2003 Blobeye spec c feels unstable at motorway speeds
