Hi guys,

I'm currently running a MD321T turbo on a 2.35 build and I'm looking more power. Last time the car was on the dyno it produced 470bhp. I'm looking to get to around the 600bhp mark with a standard location turbo. Has anybody any recommendations?

Apologies if I've posted in the wrong place. First time using the forum.

Cheers Ali

 

In all honesty mate if your on 470bhp just swapping to a different turbo will not achieve your goal of 600bhp,i would have to know More of your engine spec and supporting mods i.e injector size AVCS heads,headwork,camshafts detuned 2.5 or a 2.2 closed deck block etc...but just to keep things simple, your looking a gt35r size turbo or above with the right induction and fuelling.SJ.

 

2.2 cdb, rcm parallel fuel lines, ID 1000cc injectors, Syvecs, mahle pistons, (upgrading to arrow rods) Avcs heads. No head work yet. Just looking to see what i need for that sort of horsepower so I can plan the build accordingly. For that power do I need to upgrade to the 14mm head studs?

 

try forced performance ,, there range is very good an there black should see you to around 600

 

Are you on o.e rods now?You have a good starting base, but in all honesty did you not know that you would want 600bhp when you done the engine build originally?what head studs are you on now 11?yeah you would require 14mm head studs,1000cc injectors that you have already will be fine at that power level,i don't personally know too much Subarus with standard position turbos running over 600bhp....600bhp is a big jump up from 470bhp so make sure that your other supporting mods are also up to the hike in power if you get there i.e brakes...I don't know of the turbocharger that has been recommended above but maybe you should have a look at that one.SJ.

 

I think this is the company that domino46 recommended...http://www.forcedperformance.net/fp-...ru-stiwrx.html.SJ.

 

I had great results from there kit (had there 84mm inlet pipe aswell) (fitted without removing the manifold I might add lol) and would buy from them again without any worries ,,, I had there FP red journal bearing one and was over the moon with it ,, they said it was a 500bhp turbo and I made 530bhp @ 1.75 bar so it still had a bit more puff in it if I wanted but I was more than happy to keep it there

 

Long story short, I bought the car fully forged running a 2.5. I had it for about 3 days and it burnt a hole in the block. So when I got it rebuilt I went down the 2.2 route as I was told they are the strongest blocks etc. I was happy enough with the power at the time so I kept everything as it was as I was skint after the original cost of the car and the rebuild 😂. The rods that are in it are forged rods that were in the car when I bought it. I reused them. The rods aren't stamped and have no markings on them so I've no idea what they are. I want to change them for peace of mind. Thank for the link👍

 

Great thank you. I'll check them out.

 

Fully understand mate, the 2.2 cdb is definitely one of the strongest engine blocks Subaru have ever made so much positive strength under piston squirters etc... and is a excellent base for holding big power, I also understand about changing the rods if you are not to sure about make, but if they are holding up i would not really bother myself as forged rods can really take a licking even the 2002 bugeye sti forged ones as i have a mate running 520bhp+ with them on his original engine and has been now for quite some time...please update us with what you decide to do I would be very interested to see what route you take especially with the turbo choice, and to see what options are out there for other members who want to run big power but from the standard turbo position...All the best.SJ.

 

I have a similar setup ... fully forged 2.2 closed deck (2.35) , 800cc injectors , HKS front mount ,ARP 14mm head studs , Rodger Clark's big ported cylinder heads, Supertech inlet/exhaust valves and springs same turbo as you , but with Motec m800 pro motor sport ecu ,probably running the same power .
I find it more than enough for my needs (it faster than my F80 M3.... 440-460bhp).
so my question is why do you need 600 ?

as mentioned above 14mm head studs are " a must " !

 

​​​​​​ It's more a want than a need to be honest. I've a good base to start from so why not? Did you find a big difference in the head/ head work? Rcm parts are 1st class. So expensive though but you pay for what you get!!
​​

 

That’s a BIG jump in terms of power, reliability, drivability. You might find your current spec is far better to live with and use than big ***** waving hp.

 

Only one way to find out. I do know what you mean though.