Notices
General Technical
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: CARiD

Best FMIC piping for Hybrid version 1 on classic

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 16, 2017 | 01:30 PM
  #1  
thoughto's Avatar
thoughto
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Default Best FMIC piping for Hybrid version 1 on classic

I bought a second hand Hybrid FMIC for my 1998 JDM Version 4 STI. I installed it myself and it works well (properly mapped for it). However, whenever I have to remove them and put them back on, I realise that the pipes and silicone hoses are not a great fit, and doing up the clamps the fit is never great. I can't use my brake master cylinder blocker, had to remove the turbo heat shield, a pipe almost fouls the wastegate actuator and the tranny oil dipstick is at risk of getting bent. Also the bonnet is gradually grinding one of the big pipes on the other side.
Is there a better set of pipes and hoses out there that I could buy and fit instead? Happy with the core itself.
Thanks for any help.
I assume the Hybrid core is the original one, due to its age, in case that makes a difference.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2017 | 09:43 PM
  #2  
edsel's Avatar
edsel
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 1
From: Essex innit
Default

Its very much trial, error and compromise with classic FMIC kits, most have been adapted have had cuts/joins in different places. I agree the supplied joiners and pipes are of poor quality. I replaced most of the silicone joiners and elbows from www.viperperformance.co.uk I also used Murray clamps from @asperformance.
I'll post some pictures later of how mine looks after modifying due to clash issues with the actuator and battery terminal.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2017 | 10:58 PM
  #3  
thoughto's Avatar
thoughto
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Default

Thanks edsel. Looking forward to seeing your pics.
Reply
Old Mar 17, 2017 | 12:36 AM
  #4  
edsel's Avatar
edsel
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 1
From: Essex innit
Default

If youre running high boost be mindful that pipes are prone to blowing off if they arent beaded after cutting, they will also blow off if you get oil in the IC system.
The dent on the pipe on the near side is often the bonnet vent nuts. You might get away with filing them down. The nearside pipe more often than not touches the live battery terminal as there isn't enough wiggle room between the oil filler neck.
I bought a small filler cap adaptor, there's now no contact and an inch between the pipe and terminal. Not ideal, I now need a longer oil fill funnel, but hey that's modified cars for you








Reply
Old Mar 17, 2017 | 10:59 AM
  #5  
thoughto's Avatar
thoughto
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Default

Thanks a lot. Looks nice, shiny and clean. Your car must be an early classic, right? What strikes me most is it looks like you appear to have a quite lengthy L-shaped piece of silicone coming straight out of the turbo - did you cut the pipe to do that? Also there's a piece of silicone right next to the clutch slave cylinder - does that join pipes or is it there to prevent metal on metal contact? The near side of my engine is not such a big concern, as I am probably taking out the (non-usable) ac system very soon and I already have a smaller-than-stock battery.
Thanks again, Tom
Reply
Old Mar 17, 2017 | 11:21 AM
  #6  
edsel's Avatar
edsel
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 1
From: Essex innit
Default

I had the clash condition with the actuator. Silicone elbow from the turbo and a cut and joiner by the clutch slave.
Reply




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:17 AM.