Dump valves and overfueling
05 January 2014, 10:22 PM
#151
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You're wrong.
When you back off the pedal and the car vents/re-circs or returns (via the Turbo dummies) the pressurised air is no longer needed but the fact vented air doesn't cancel out the Turbo's natural vacuum effect a slight amount of air passes the MAF and tricks the ECU into fueling for it. As many have said on here gear changes take a long time and the air/fueling will be metered again back on boost.
Hell knows what happens if you are lifting off and reapplying whilst driving as if revving up a car whilst moving. Maybe it just causes a briefer moment of richness. I've had a bit of a drive today with an AFR meter and it was generally back up towards 14ish when the pedal was pushed back down, the lowest AFR I recorded between shifts was 11.3 and the highest on overrun 24.2
When you back off the pedal and the car vents/re-circs or returns (via the Turbo dummies) the pressurised air is no longer needed but the fact vented air doesn't cancel out the Turbo's natural vacuum effect a slight amount of air passes the MAF and tricks the ECU into fueling for it. As many have said on here gear changes take a long time and the air/fueling will be metered again back on boost.
Hell knows what happens if you are lifting off and reapplying whilst driving as if revving up a car whilst moving. Maybe it just causes a briefer moment of richness. I've had a bit of a drive today with an AFR meter and it was generally back up towards 14ish when the pedal was pushed back down, the lowest AFR I recorded between shifts was 11.3 and the highest on overrun 24.2
re reading it, it think you have actually got it but your explanation is quite easy to confuse. kiwwi is correct though. what your both saying is 2 and the same thing
to be clear:
VTA valves allow the turbo the keep sucking air through the MAF = overfueling
recirc valves equalise the pressure difference between outside the car and behind the maf = no overfueling
no dump valves means the turbo keeps spinning (sucking in through maf) and sucking in air untill the pressure in the intake overcomes the pressure generated by the turbo (happens very quickly. like 0.1 secs or less)
then the air goes back out the maf = overfueling
remembering " high pressure air - low presure air > pressure outside car"
hopefully (and i stress hopefully) Subaru designed the restrictiveness off the return loop that during the time that your changing gear the recirc is allowing just enough air to pass back through so that there is equal pressure inside the intake and outside the car so nothings being sucked in
to much vented and it will blow back out the maf. not enough vented and the turbo will still suck in air or will stall/cavatate
also you are unlikely to be getting accurate readings from the AFM because its doing an average rather than instant
there might be 100/1 AFR for 0.25 seconds and 1/1 for 0.75 seconds meaning that you get a reading off 25/1
another way off looking at it. the turbo is pumping lots off air and and the injectors are pumping in lots off petrol. when the throttle closes the air stops
the petrol though will keep going in untill the ECU realises the air has stopped. now we know the ECU on stock map only uses the MAF to tell how much air is going in we want the air flowing through the MAF to be as close as posible the air flowing through the TB so the ECU can do its job
the recerc helps to keep the MAF accurate were as the others dont
the longer it takes the ECU to update the more fuel gets dumped in.
we arnt talking "running rich" ether. this isnt like screwing up the map on the ECU or tuning a carburettor really rich. this is **** loads off fuel.. injectors pumping there little hearts out on full throttle and the TB stopping any significant amount off air getting in
recercs will always be best on maf cars
Last edited by joshnosh; 05 January 2014 at 10:32 PM.
05 January 2014, 10:24 PM
#152
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but you call your wrx billy, claim to race cars on the street and have ruined your engine.
for what its worth i ran a vta briefly when i fitted a fmic while i was waiting for the recirc pipe to be delivered.
it ran fine,only difference i found was it popped occasionally on gear changes.
make of that what you will as to the cause.
for what its worth i ran a vta briefly when i fitted a fmic while i was waiting for the recirc pipe to be delivered.
it ran fine,only difference i found was it popped occasionally on gear changes.
make of that what you will as to the cause.
05 January 2014, 10:29 PM
#153
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Kermit, and 3M for that matter, are just pretenders to your crown.
05 January 2014, 10:30 PM
#154
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05 January 2014, 10:50 PM
#156
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Bloody hell I've heard worse sounds, it masks my squealing scraping brakes for a split second now and then. Not to mention my ticking injectors and squeaking alternator bearings.
Digging into psychology it's the sound of power tbh, very similar to heavy weight stopping sounds heard on buses and trucks.
Have you ever heard a de-skinned Terminator move?
Digging into psychology it's the sound of power tbh, very similar to heavy weight stopping sounds heard on buses and trucks.
Have you ever heard a de-skinned Terminator move?
05 January 2014, 10:53 PM
#157
Bloody hell I've heard worse sounds, it masks my squealing scraping brakes for a split second now and then. Not to mention my ticking injectors and squeaking alternator bearings.
Digging into psychology it's the sound of power tbh, very similar to heavy weight stopping sounds heard on buses and trucks.
Have you ever heard a de-skinned Terminator move?
Digging into psychology it's the sound of power tbh, very similar to heavy weight stopping sounds heard on buses and trucks.
Have you ever heard a de-skinned Terminator move?
interesting thread though but id say they cause overfuelling as from experience when i briefly ran one it caused pops and bangs so must have been overfuelling
05 January 2014, 11:03 PM
#158
I think this BOV sounds pretty sweet. Think its an adjustable SSQV, so also has abit of compressor stall in there aswell
Im tempted to fit a turbosmart supersonic to mine, loved how it sounded on my evo, plus ill be going mafless so shouldn't be any issues
Im tempted to fit a turbosmart supersonic to mine, loved how it sounded on my evo, plus ill be going mafless so shouldn't be any issues
05 January 2014, 11:04 PM
#159
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What ever I read people state pops and bangs are only caused by an over-fuel, I've occasionally read that AM exhaust system parts and lean running can cause them, in the case of lean running, there just isn't enough fuel in the chambers to ignite so it goes out into the exhaust. I think this is what was causing my farts as walbro pump stuck in made them cease.
05 January 2014, 11:07 PM
#160
Chatter, pigeon noise? cha cha cha? All 3 scream birds.
What ever I read people state pops and bangs are only caused by an over-fuel, I've occasionally read that AM exhaust system parts and lean running can cause them, in the case of lean running, there just isn't enough fuel in the chambers to ignite so it goes out into the exhaust. I think this is what was causing my farts as walbro pump stuck in made them cease.
What ever I read people state pops and bangs are only caused by an over-fuel, I've occasionally read that AM exhaust system parts and lean running can cause them, in the case of lean running, there just isn't enough fuel in the chambers to ignite so it goes out into the exhaust. I think this is what was causing my farts as walbro pump stuck in made them cease.
and the car was mapped at rcm so it was running perfectly only thing that changed was the dv.
it ran exactly the same though the occasional pop was only difference
05 January 2014, 11:08 PM
#161
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upshot is VTA or recirc.. your car will not randomly implode either way lol though no valve at all will shorten turbo life which in the odd case could make your car implode if the turbo takes a **** in a big way.
i thought i mentioned too much power/boost as one of the potential causes of higher combustion chamber temps? id nearly bet your mate also did that on a standard turbo in which case tiny turbo working harder = hotter compressed air exiting turbo and subsequently hotter combustion temps that or the tuning was not kosher.
if i had the money for it id do a little experiment just to prove/disprove the ringland failure issue. id take a "soft/****" 2.5 and boost it up to power levels where everyone thinks it would definately fail but in building that setup i would make sure to address plenty of routes of cooling the engine/air charge to prevent overly hot combustion chamber temps. just off the top of my head i can think of the following:
1 - replace the turbo for a suitable sized unit so not as much heat generated as a small turbo working harder/out of its efficiency zone.
2 - 1 or 2 small electric fans on the TMIC to help stop/reduce heatsoak when not moving to help avoid higher temps when taking off after sitting in traffic and to help pull air in at higher speeds when the air over the front of the car is rumoured to basically jump over the scoop, the fan/s could be controlled by a universal capillary stat kit shoved in the fins of the IC.
3 - a lower temp and/or higher flow thermostat and uprated radiator.
4 - suitable colder sparkplugs to also help pull out heat from the combustion chamber.
5 - a fuel cooler/cooling setup again to reduce temps.
6 - the airbox or intake would be as close to fully sealed and insulated as possible and drawing in the coolest air possible.
7 - turbo blanket and exhaust wrap on manifold, up and downpipes to reduce radiant heat in the engine bay, possibly ceramic coating instead of wrap or to go overboard ceramic coating and wrap.
8 - phenolic spacers/gaskets on as many things as i could put them on to block heat transfer from engine/heads to inlet manifold and from inlet manifold to TB.
9 - STi (if it were a WRX) or uprated TMIC with good seal between bonnet scoop and the intercooler for maximum airflow, also fit the largest scoop available (V7 or V8 STi scoop i believe).
10 - A GOOD TUNE that errs on the side of caution, and extra 5-10bhp isnt that important if your already 100-150bhp up from standard, better to play safe at the expense of a a little HP/TQ id think.
and thats about all i can think off off the top of my head but im sure you get the idea.. the emphasis iso safe tuning and making sure the engine runs as cool as possible given the extra power and subsequently heat associated with that extra power. would be interesting to see if a setup like that would grenade itself or if it would run, and run, and run, and run..
also people getting walbro 255lph pumps.. MAKE SURE ITS A GENUINE ONE not a copy. theres comparison vids on youtube and the sound is different between the real and fake ones.
some info thats handy to know in there regarding where certain things reach their limit HP wise.
if i had the money for it id do a little experiment just to prove/disprove the ringland failure issue. id take a "soft/****" 2.5 and boost it up to power levels where everyone thinks it would definately fail but in building that setup i would make sure to address plenty of routes of cooling the engine/air charge to prevent overly hot combustion chamber temps. just off the top of my head i can think of the following:
1 - replace the turbo for a suitable sized unit so not as much heat generated as a small turbo working harder/out of its efficiency zone.
2 - 1 or 2 small electric fans on the TMIC to help stop/reduce heatsoak when not moving to help avoid higher temps when taking off after sitting in traffic and to help pull air in at higher speeds when the air over the front of the car is rumoured to basically jump over the scoop, the fan/s could be controlled by a universal capillary stat kit shoved in the fins of the IC.
3 - a lower temp and/or higher flow thermostat and uprated radiator.
4 - suitable colder sparkplugs to also help pull out heat from the combustion chamber.
5 - a fuel cooler/cooling setup again to reduce temps.
6 - the airbox or intake would be as close to fully sealed and insulated as possible and drawing in the coolest air possible.
7 - turbo blanket and exhaust wrap on manifold, up and downpipes to reduce radiant heat in the engine bay, possibly ceramic coating instead of wrap or to go overboard ceramic coating and wrap.
8 - phenolic spacers/gaskets on as many things as i could put them on to block heat transfer from engine/heads to inlet manifold and from inlet manifold to TB.
9 - STi (if it were a WRX) or uprated TMIC with good seal between bonnet scoop and the intercooler for maximum airflow, also fit the largest scoop available (V7 or V8 STi scoop i believe).
10 - A GOOD TUNE that errs on the side of caution, and extra 5-10bhp isnt that important if your already 100-150bhp up from standard, better to play safe at the expense of a a little HP/TQ id think.
and thats about all i can think off off the top of my head but im sure you get the idea.. the emphasis iso safe tuning and making sure the engine runs as cool as possible given the extra power and subsequently heat associated with that extra power. would be interesting to see if a setup like that would grenade itself or if it would run, and run, and run, and run..
also people getting walbro 255lph pumps.. MAKE SURE ITS A GENUINE ONE not a copy. theres comparison vids on youtube and the sound is different between the real and fake ones.
Originally Posted by RS_Matt View Post
TDO4 270-310bhp Very rare on a standard one, 260-280 is more common IIRC.
Newage WRX engine or "restrictive heads" 320-400bhp Depends on how you drive it and if you are monitoring oil temp/pressure, Heads will do 400
Newage box 350-560bhp Depends on how you drive it, Torque, Unsympathetic gear changes and launches destroy boxes not BHP
Newage WRX 380 injectors 290-320 My 380's do 330
Walbro Pump 250-320 My Walbro does 330
Newage WRX top mount 280-360 just get an sti one
VTA runs fine-runs horrible/massively over-fuels, Crap put it in the bin unless youre gonna run 400+bhp
STI top mount 400-450, Yep correct, Obviously you benefit from a FMIC in the torque department and obviously IT`s will be higher with a TM
Panel filter usually 400 surprisingly, on the limit i`d say
Some say boost going through the turbo the wrong way won't slow it down....and some dont
I'm about to ask what causes caliper pistons to start sticking as it happens on all my cars. It's gonna be epic.. Wear & Tear,cracked seals,overheating and poor mantinece.
TDO4 270-310bhp Very rare on a standard one, 260-280 is more common IIRC.
Newage WRX engine or "restrictive heads" 320-400bhp Depends on how you drive it and if you are monitoring oil temp/pressure, Heads will do 400
Newage box 350-560bhp Depends on how you drive it, Torque, Unsympathetic gear changes and launches destroy boxes not BHP
Newage WRX 380 injectors 290-320 My 380's do 330
Walbro Pump 250-320 My Walbro does 330
Newage WRX top mount 280-360 just get an sti one
VTA runs fine-runs horrible/massively over-fuels, Crap put it in the bin unless youre gonna run 400+bhp
STI top mount 400-450, Yep correct, Obviously you benefit from a FMIC in the torque department and obviously IT`s will be higher with a TM
Panel filter usually 400 surprisingly, on the limit i`d say
Some say boost going through the turbo the wrong way won't slow it down....and some dont
I'm about to ask what causes caliper pistons to start sticking as it happens on all my cars. It's gonna be epic.. Wear & Tear,cracked seals,overheating and poor mantinece.
Last edited by DmcL; 05 January 2014 at 11:23 PM.
05 January 2014, 11:10 PM
#162
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I think this BOV sounds pretty sweet. Think its an adjustable SSQV, so also has abit of compressor stall in there aswell
Driving the **** out of my gt35r STI... (POV) - YouTube
Im tempted to fit a turbosmart supersonic to mine, loved how it sounded on my evo, plus ill be going mafless so shouldn't be any issues
Driving the **** out of my gt35r STI... (POV) - YouTube
Im tempted to fit a turbosmart supersonic to mine, loved how it sounded on my evo, plus ill be going mafless so shouldn't be any issues
I'm nowt for impressing chav lads or middle aged men. My EVO 4 did that and it got tiresome, I felt like Jenson Button everywhere I went..
"what's that?"
"Evo!!!!!!!!!!!"
Most Chavs can't afford Turbo'd motors so they are in fact jealous of Scoobs.
05 January 2014, 11:12 PM
#163
The fact the HKS Sqv makes 16yo girls moist kinda appeals to the kid in me. The only people who turn their heads to look at my car burbling and hissing up the street is 5yo boys and In a (PC) way I kinda prefer it that way.
I'm nowt for impressing chav lads or middle aged men. My EVO 4 did that and it got tiresome, I felt like Jenson Button everywhere I went..
"what's that?"
"Evo!!!!!!!!!!!"
Most Chavs can't afford Turbo'd motors so they are in fact jealous of Scoobs.
I'm nowt for impressing chav lads or middle aged men. My EVO 4 did that and it got tiresome, I felt like Jenson Button everywhere I went..
"what's that?"
"Evo!!!!!!!!!!!"
Most Chavs can't afford Turbo'd motors so they are in fact jealous of Scoobs.
05 January 2014, 11:15 PM
#164
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The fact the HKS Sqv makes 16yo girls moist kinda appeals to the kid in me. The only people who turn their heads to look at my car burbling and hissing up the street is 5yo boys and In a (PC) way I kinda prefer it that way.
I'm nowt for impressing chav lads or middle aged men. My EVO 4 did that and it got tiresome, I felt like Jenson Button everywhere I went..
"what's that?"
"Evo!!!!!!!!!!!"
Most Chavs can't afford Turbo'd motors so they are in fact jealous of Scoobs.
I'm nowt for impressing chav lads or middle aged men. My EVO 4 did that and it got tiresome, I felt like Jenson Button everywhere I went..
"what's that?"
"Evo!!!!!!!!!!!"
Most Chavs can't afford Turbo'd motors so they are in fact jealous of Scoobs.
05 January 2014, 11:15 PM
#165
I miss my evo, that turned heads everywhere, even had random little kids whilst driving through town stick there thumbs up at me/it.
Don't seem to get the same with the scoob lol.
I don't mind the sound of a bov, quite like it, baileys etc sound poo, but something like ssqv like in the vid or turbosmart make quite a nice sound, not something id tire of easy as don't boot the car enough to allow it to make much of a sound
Don't seem to get the same with the scoob lol.
I don't mind the sound of a bov, quite like it, baileys etc sound poo, but something like ssqv like in the vid or turbosmart make quite a nice sound, not something id tire of easy as don't boot the car enough to allow it to make much of a sound
05 January 2014, 11:18 PM
#167
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Thread Starter
upshot is VTA or recirc.. your car will not randomly implode either way lol though no valve at all will shorten turbo life which in the odd case could make your car implode if the turbo takes a **** in a big way.
i thought i mentioned too much power/boost as one of the potential causes of higher combustion chamber temps? id nearly bet your mate also did that on a standard turbo in which case tiny turbo working harder = hotter compressed air exiting turbo and subsequently hotter combustion temps.
if i had the money for it id do a little experiment just to prove/disprove the ringland failure issue. id take a "soft/****" 2.5 and boost it up to power levels where everyone thinks it would definately fail but in building that setup i would make sure to address plenty of routes of cooling the engine/air charge to prevent overly hot combustion chamber temps. just off the top of my head i can think of the following:
1 - replace the turbo for a suitable sized unit so not as much heat generated as a small turbo working harder.
2 - 1 or 2 small electric fans on the TMIC to help stop/reduce heatsoak when not moving to help avoid higher temps when taking off after sitting in traffic and to help pull air in at higher speeds when the air over the front of the car is rumoured to basically jump over the scoop.
3 - a lower temp and/or higher flow thermostat and uprated radiator.
4 - suitable colder sparkplugs to also help pull out heat from the combustion chamber.
5 - a fuel cooler/cooling setup again to reduce temps.
6 - the airbox or intake would be as close to fully sealed and insulated as possible and drawing in the coolest air possible.
7 - turbo blanket and exhaust wrap on manifold, up and downpipes to reduce radiant heat in the engine bay, possibly ceramic coating instead of wrap or to go overboard ceramic coating and wrap.
8 - phenolic spacers/gaskets on as many things as i could put them on to block heat transfer from engine/heads to inlet manifold and from inlet manifold to TB.
9 - STi (if it were a WRX) or uprated TMIC with good seal between bonnet scoop and the intercooler for maximum airflow, also fit the largest scoop available (V7 or V8 STi scoop i believe).
10 - A GOOD TUNE that errs on the side of caution, and extra 5-10bhp isnt that important if your already 100-150bhp up from standard, better to play safe at the expense of a a little HP/TQ id think.
and thats about all i can think off off the top of my head but im sure you get the idea.. the emphasis iso safe tuning and making sure the engine runs as cool as possible given the extra power and subsequently heat associated with that extra power. would be interesting to see if a setup like that would grenade itself or if it would run, and run, and run, and run..
also people getting walbro 255lph pumps.. MAKE SURE ITS A GENUINE ONE not a copy. theres comparison vids on youtube and the sound is different between the real and fake ones.
i thought i mentioned too much power/boost as one of the potential causes of higher combustion chamber temps? id nearly bet your mate also did that on a standard turbo in which case tiny turbo working harder = hotter compressed air exiting turbo and subsequently hotter combustion temps.
if i had the money for it id do a little experiment just to prove/disprove the ringland failure issue. id take a "soft/****" 2.5 and boost it up to power levels where everyone thinks it would definately fail but in building that setup i would make sure to address plenty of routes of cooling the engine/air charge to prevent overly hot combustion chamber temps. just off the top of my head i can think of the following:
1 - replace the turbo for a suitable sized unit so not as much heat generated as a small turbo working harder.
2 - 1 or 2 small electric fans on the TMIC to help stop/reduce heatsoak when not moving to help avoid higher temps when taking off after sitting in traffic and to help pull air in at higher speeds when the air over the front of the car is rumoured to basically jump over the scoop.
3 - a lower temp and/or higher flow thermostat and uprated radiator.
4 - suitable colder sparkplugs to also help pull out heat from the combustion chamber.
5 - a fuel cooler/cooling setup again to reduce temps.
6 - the airbox or intake would be as close to fully sealed and insulated as possible and drawing in the coolest air possible.
7 - turbo blanket and exhaust wrap on manifold, up and downpipes to reduce radiant heat in the engine bay, possibly ceramic coating instead of wrap or to go overboard ceramic coating and wrap.
8 - phenolic spacers/gaskets on as many things as i could put them on to block heat transfer from engine/heads to inlet manifold and from inlet manifold to TB.
9 - STi (if it were a WRX) or uprated TMIC with good seal between bonnet scoop and the intercooler for maximum airflow, also fit the largest scoop available (V7 or V8 STi scoop i believe).
10 - A GOOD TUNE that errs on the side of caution, and extra 5-10bhp isnt that important if your already 100-150bhp up from standard, better to play safe at the expense of a a little HP/TQ id think.
and thats about all i can think off off the top of my head but im sure you get the idea.. the emphasis iso safe tuning and making sure the engine runs as cool as possible given the extra power and subsequently heat associated with that extra power. would be interesting to see if a setup like that would grenade itself or if it would run, and run, and run, and run..
also people getting walbro 255lph pumps.. MAKE SURE ITS A GENUINE ONE not a copy. theres comparison vids on youtube and the sound is different between the real and fake ones.
05 January 2014, 11:19 PM
#168
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05 January 2014, 11:21 PM
#169
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05 January 2014, 11:25 PM
#170
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I miss my evo, that turned heads everywhere, even had random little kids whilst driving through town stick there thumbs up at me/it.
Don't seem to get the same with the scoob lol.
I don't mind the sound of a bov, quite like it, baileys etc sound poo, but something like ssqv like in the vid or turbosmart make quite a nice sound, not something id tire of easy as don't boot the car enough to allow it to make much of a sound
Don't seem to get the same with the scoob lol.
I don't mind the sound of a bov, quite like it, baileys etc sound poo, but something like ssqv like in the vid or turbosmart make quite a nice sound, not something id tire of easy as don't boot the car enough to allow it to make much of a sound
Once girls were sat on a bench screaming when I pulled up at the lights in my IV, I never got that in a Fast Ford when I was in fact a boyracer back in the day 3 years ago. I got a lot of waves in my MK2 golf GTI but the wife gnikcuf hated it.
05 January 2014, 11:26 PM
#171
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It seems to be accepted that an STI engine on standard internals is good for 450 with the odd mad bloke running 500. With the precautions you list and perhaps a nitrous IC spray system and water wetter could the STI push more and be comfortable at 500? Or is the explosion pressure in the chamber just too strong for the engine?
what age are you then? i was under the impression you may be older than you are going by that statement? i passed my driving test like ~10 years ago lol
Last edited by DmcL; 05 January 2014 at 11:29 PM.
05 January 2014, 11:36 PM
#172
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Thread Starter
see thats also something id be interested in seeing.. assuming failure im 99.9% of cases is combustion temp related then if you could sufficiently manage the chamber temp and keep it from getting hot to the point of failure then i wonder at what point OEM parts would simply just let go due to strain. would be interesting to see what went first, pistons or rods.. or maybe even something with the block/heads?
I've blown 4 engines in my life with Billy nearly #5:
1. Cam belt snapped RS Turbo
2. I thrashed an RS Turbo the first day the engine was rebuilt.
3. 1.3 pop plus, I let the oil run out.
4. Spark plug stopped working and I drove 100 miles on the car RS 2000.
5. Borewash from either Broken spark plug tip/faulty remap/bodged wiring giving injector interference Subaru WRX. Tuner wasn't sure
05 January 2014, 11:39 PM
#173
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It hurts when I see under 25's or over 45's driving them.
05 January 2014, 11:48 PM
#174
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I've just remembered that I once saw a VTA that was designed to sound like chatter on venting, the end of the outlet used to judder like it was on it's own spring.
Is it possible to fit an harder spring in to the standard re-circ?
Is it possible to fit an harder spring in to the standard re-circ?
Last edited by RS_Matt; 05 January 2014 at 11:50 PM.
05 January 2014, 11:54 PM
#176
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When I sum it up, Imp owners don't want to be heard, they don't want to be seen, removing the obnoxious boot spoiler is becoming a trend....
Jesus, buy an oubliette not an STI.
06 January 2014, 12:19 AM
#177
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true, kind of the wrong car to try and blend in with.. unless you ditch all WRX/STi panels and make a 1.6 rep lol
forged pistons are just stronger all around, im no specialist in thermo but id say they could easily take a damn sight more pressure/heat/abuse than standard pistons, in any car, nevermind ones with "chocolate pistons". det can still toast an engine, depends how much det or how badly the engine dets though built/forged engines can take more of it. just look at WRC engines, they allow X amount of det in a stage as engine can take it so risk is low, if its a later stage and they are wanting to push the envelope and try to claw back some time or something they will actually allow more det and tune the ECU more agressively knowing it will det more.. but then WRC teams have the luxury of only having to have the engine hold up for a certain amount of time, after the race/rally is over they can dump it and fit a new one or strip it and rebuild it.(i heard this from the horses mouth, a local garage that builds/repairs/services rally cars, and i mean proper ones not just stuff like mk2 escorts or FWD turdboxes).
35, with the 3 years ago comment i was thinking you must be like 20 or so lol was going to say this kids (i use the term loosely, im only 29 :P ) nowhere near as bad as the majority of others his age.
also i dont believe in mid life crisis.. its just simply that once your established in life you can then afford to buy some fancy pants sports car you wouldnt have been able to when younger due to lack of money, insane insurance prices, etc.
forged pistons are just stronger all around, im no specialist in thermo but id say they could easily take a damn sight more pressure/heat/abuse than standard pistons, in any car, nevermind ones with "chocolate pistons". det can still toast an engine, depends how much det or how badly the engine dets though built/forged engines can take more of it. just look at WRC engines, they allow X amount of det in a stage as engine can take it so risk is low, if its a later stage and they are wanting to push the envelope and try to claw back some time or something they will actually allow more det and tune the ECU more agressively knowing it will det more.. but then WRC teams have the luxury of only having to have the engine hold up for a certain amount of time, after the race/rally is over they can dump it and fit a new one or strip it and rebuild it.(i heard this from the horses mouth, a local garage that builds/repairs/services rally cars, and i mean proper ones not just stuff like mk2 escorts or FWD turdboxes).
35, with the 3 years ago comment i was thinking you must be like 20 or so lol was going to say this kids (i use the term loosely, im only 29 :P ) nowhere near as bad as the majority of others his age.
also i dont believe in mid life crisis.. its just simply that once your established in life you can then afford to buy some fancy pants sports car you wouldnt have been able to when younger due to lack of money, insane insurance prices, etc.
Last edited by DmcL; 06 January 2014 at 12:31 AM.
06 January 2014, 12:42 AM
#178
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
true, kind of the wrong car to try and blend in with.. unless you ditch all WRX/STi panels and make a 1.6 rep lol
35, with the 3 years ago comment i was thinking you must be like 20 or so lol was going to say this kids (i use the term loosely, im only 29 :P ) nowhere near as bad as the majority of others his age.
35, with the 3 years ago comment i was thinking you must be like 20 or so lol was going to say this kids (i use the term loosely, im only 29 :P ) nowhere near as bad as the majority of others his age.
Last edited by RS_Matt; 06 January 2014 at 12:44 AM.
