Kwik

iTrader: (10)

JGM mate

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Should have done that last year....

Broken engine, did you replace or rebuild it?

Second hand replacement, never thought that the engine itself might be fcuked? Was it a 2.0L?

Ring/email/PM Simon(JGM), and ask him to have a look at it ECU wise when he can.

You're throwing money away taking it to places that deal with Fiesta's and Polo's on a daily basis.

TurboFreak

Seemed a good engine which was from a P1, and performs well until having problems.
The running on 2/3 cylinders... or thats how it seemed, only started after this engine had been running fine for 2 months, and after I had changed a coilpack, but new coilpack, leads, plugs, maf, Lambda and it still run like sh*t... then it would run fine again but the problem always came back, never got 5 miles in it..

I have taken it out 4 times today, covered about 50 miles I guess and the problem has not come back... so I think the mechanic may have sorted it by cleaning injector connections, he does think that maybe the injectors themselfs could be the problem though.

The problem that is still there is poor idle when hot, this was there when car returned to me after engine fitted by a mechanic who learnt his trade working on TVRs and Scoobys, that has got worse to the point where car can stall.

I refitted the original Idle Control Valve today but it made no difference

TurboFreak

Car run fine for 5 days apart from poor idle, soaked in WD40 over night and fitted the other ICV back with new O seal... no difference to idle problem and code 24 is back.
After 5 days it started pulling back and running like s**t again, really thought it was sorted but the mechanic must have been on right track by checking injector connections as do not believe it was a coincidence it run fine for 5 days afterwards.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Have you checked, properly, for air leaks?

My car ran like a dog at idle just before christmas, because I'd forgot to bung the vacuum take-off for the dump valve when I removed it.

TurboFreak

I checked for leaks... wd40.

Asked the mechanic who looked at it last week to check as well, especially the Turbo hose but no leak found.

The guy who fitted this engine did re-route some pipework as he said they were wrong, but think that was something to do with the oil catch tank system that was already fitted.

A couple of pipes are blocked off with wheel bolts, doesn't look very good and intend to sort out but no leaks.

johned

Why would anyone block off pipes?,and which pipes are they and what for?.

TurboFreak

.. well tbh I don't really know for sure but car was always like it, I think it has something to do with an oil catch tank that's fitted... does that sound right to you?
I will take photo and post it on here, but think from memory there are two pipes blocked off with a wheel stud and clip, looks really naff and will be sorting it out properly.
But like I said car run fine and came to me with these pipes blocked off when I bought it a year ago.
The guy who done the engine swap did say the catch tank pipes were wrong and he altered them in some way, I think he said pipes were the wrong way round?

Baz82

Would you not just give the car to someone that know what they are doing?

TurboFreak

Yep... that is next step.

But power steering pump went on wifes BMW Mini last week, clutch went on my MGZT same week so borrowed my sons car, his 18th birthday present and someone kindly wrote it off!... whiplash... police...hospital.

so need to find someone to look at scooby asap when other cars sorted.

Baz82

Sorry to hear your so unlucky with cars

johned

Keep going, you will sort it and i wish you all the best.

TurboFreak

thanks, things can only get better.

The problem with my scooby has become personal now... just want it sorted so I can enjoy driving it again in the way it's meant to be driven, if you know what I mean.

johned

Any joy?.

TurboFreak

Had it parked up for a couple of weeks as tax was due, just taxed again today as I want to drive the bloody thing, not look at it.

It runs fine for a while then starts playinng up, last night it even run rough when cold which it hadn't done on the last few drives.

I taxed it so I can at least legally drive it to some magician who can sort it out...
watch this space.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I've not replied to your PM as yet as I'm not sure when I'll be about. My idea of swapping my MAF for yours was purely so we use a known working MAF and rule that out first I just need to double check with JGM mine is now mapped to run MAF-less.

TurboFreak

But the MAF fitted is a genuine new one from Subaru, it didn't make any difference.

I do need to check a couple of things first but have spoken to Simon at JGM and he looks like being next in line to have it on a rolling road in Cobham .. if I feel confident it will get me there

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

That doesn't mean anything. They are very easy to damage, and it's not unknown that a dealer will sell you a broken one. They don't do it on purpose though.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

This was my thinking. I know mine works, if it doesn't change a thing then it's back to square one.

A few things I'm thinking just based on my recent experiences are around the engine build and how things were changed/swapped.
The inlet manifold you have on now, is that the original from your original engine or was this on the replaced engine and never removed/refitted?.
If it was changed at all then it could mean a hidden split somewhere on a pipe, leaking injector seal or bad earth somewhere. But then this problem seems heat related.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Pretty sure your Maf won't fit his car, Al.

P1 has a cartridge insert type;



Whereas yours should be more like this;

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Ah ok . I thought It might be a straight swap as they are close in age.

Hol

iTrader: (1)

How far are you from Kent? M2 junction 3.

I have a known good maf from a 1999 car that you can borrow to see if that fixes it.

TurboFreak

Long engine fitted complete with manifolds which have block/lifters fitted.

The engine had bigger turbo and injectors but I fitted the standaard P1 turbo and injectors from old engine.

Again remember car run fine apart from lumpy eratic idle when hot, but after a few weeks it started pulling back as if running on 3... or even 2, then it picks up and goes fine again, sometimes for a few days?

2 days ago it run fine, even the idle was good for a while, then next day it was poo from cold?

At the moment there is no way I could drive it any distance without risk of damage or breakdown.

TurboFreak

Yes genuine cartridge type from scooby dealer fitted

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I take it the long engine was from a v5/6 with the off-centre cool packs? When you refitted you changed the injector seals also?
My injector seal split and it was fine. Took it out the next day and it ran like ****.

TurboFreak

The guy who done the engine swap is capable of doing a good job and is scooby/Tvr trained, however I think he rushed it, also pretty sure he didn't bother fitting new seals when he swapped the injectors.

Car is driving so bad at the moment it can not be driven any distance, when warm it is cutting out the idle is so eratic, so I think I will fit new injectors and seals

Yes engine is V5/6 with offset coilpack, told it was an original P1 engine.

I have limited info on this engine but fitted my injectors and turbo, along with lightened flywheel, oil catchtank, competetition clutch.

New water pump, cambelt kit and uprated oil pump were also fitted.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I'd be very surprised if the engine was taken from a P1. There were only 1000 made and most are kept very well, and I've rarely seen P1's getting broken. I think they were identical to the V5/V6 (sot sure) engine wise and they were just modified by Prodrive iirc.

I changed my inlet manifold recently as the hose between air filter and turbo was split, and it ran fine at first then progressively started running worse. I drove it and it was fine, I went to go to work the next day in it and it struggled to start. It really didn't want to start after I'd finished work and drove like it was about to blow up on the way home. It was undriveable so left it off road until I could look at it.
I was advised it was possibly the MAF, Inlet manifold gasket, the idle control valve, the belt may have jumped a tooth etc etc. I stripped it all down again to find the problem. I had re-used the injector seals and this was the result....



Inlet full of fuel.



I also changed the inlet manifold gaskets. The seals I got from here....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Inj...item2c7e59e31f

Not OEM but they did the trick for me. I also got the inlet manifold gaskets from Advanced Automotive. These I believe are yours.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Imp...item3cde1bdfe1

Reading this thread it's obviously something done during the engine change. When I had the running issues I worked back from the beginning and found the problem. Considering the injectors have been changed and the seals not changed I'd try that. I should be around next weekend, more likely Sunday if you wanted me to drive up and help you?.
I'd also hand it over to JGM as well at some point just to check it's running as it should once the problem is found.

TurboFreak

yep, were both on the same page with this problem now, new injectors and seals are my next step, then JGM when the car can be driven that distance, then it can be set up on a rolling road.

But first got to find the problem and get it running, by the way it always starts no problem.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Do you still have the other set of injectors?

TurboFreak

No... as I said would like to have kept them along with the uprated turbo and fuel pressure control valve but it was to much money at the time so these were removed by seller and my own standard P1 injectors and turbo fitted