WTF is going on with my P1?
24 December 2013, 01:36 PM
#31
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The problem is your blaming a new part for not correcting what sounds like a car that's been worked on buy muppets just because you have got a code out the Ecu doesn't mean that that code points to where the fault lies ie maf sensor so you changed the maf no difference what about the wiring what about another cause my friend had a code on his sti it was for the boost sensor so he changed boost sensor no difference so we called racedynamix out who plug into the Ecu traced the fault via his laptop bit of fiddling and hey presto broken wire i think your getting hung up On the fact you've spent £££ and it's Made no change and because it's an airmass your know that in the trade you won't get a refund because you've used it only my opinion.
Get the car looked at buy a proper outlet just because you've run body shop and been a panel beater won't make you an expert on subarus and diagnostics. Again don't mean to be rude if that's how it reads.
Another point is that the p1 or v6 was a short run of cars therefore the demand for cheaper aftermarket parts will be in small typical owner of a p1 would go to the dealer for that part therefore company's would not bother producing as they would sell maybe one or two if lucky I'm surprised with all you background you wouldn't have know of the p1 problems and came on hear saying your going to give it a clean. Also you said the car carnt be driven now as problem has got so bad does that mean you wer driving it around with a problem for a wile.
Good luck with trading standards and international motors and the main stealer
Get the car looked at buy a proper outlet just because you've run body shop and been a panel beater won't make you an expert on subarus and diagnostics. Again don't mean to be rude if that's how it reads.
Another point is that the p1 or v6 was a short run of cars therefore the demand for cheaper aftermarket parts will be in small typical owner of a p1 would go to the dealer for that part therefore company's would not bother producing as they would sell maybe one or two if lucky I'm surprised with all you background you wouldn't have know of the p1 problems and came on hear saying your going to give it a clean. Also you said the car carnt be driven now as problem has got so bad does that mean you wer driving it around with a problem for a wile.
Good luck with trading standards and international motors and the main stealer
24 December 2013, 01:55 PM
#32
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Thats a lot of faulty parts there.
Have you tested old and new maf sensors??You can check manually by checking the voltages
from it at idle full throttle etc if they are fine you have another issue
possibly wiring as wrx271 suggested.
have you tried coolant temp sensor as you say when hot gets worse??!
You may have to take to reputable subaru specialiast!!
Hope it gets sorted
Have you tested old and new maf sensors??You can check manually by checking the voltages
from it at idle full throttle etc if they are fine you have another issue
possibly wiring as wrx271 suggested.
have you tried coolant temp sensor as you say when hot gets worse??!
You may have to take to reputable subaru specialiast!!
Hope it gets sorted
24 December 2013, 09:18 PM
#33
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Thats a lot of faulty parts there.
Have you tested old and new maf sensors??You can check manually by checking the voltages
from it at idle full throttle etc if they are fine you have another issue
possibly wiring as wrx271 suggested.
have you tried coolant temp sensor as you say when hot gets worse??!
You may have to take to reputable subaru specialiast!!
Hope it gets sorted
Have you tested old and new maf sensors??You can check manually by checking the voltages
from it at idle full throttle etc if they are fine you have another issue
possibly wiring as wrx271 suggested.
have you tried coolant temp sensor as you say when hot gets worse??!
You may have to take to reputable subaru specialiast!!
Hope it gets sorted
I sold a good coilpack off the replacement engine 2 months ago as I knew mine was good, wish I had kept it now, the other two I have came in a box of spares with car so condition unknown.
25 December 2013, 08:08 PM
#35
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Maybe, or maybe a connection or wire was near to becoming a problem and the engine swap created a poor connection.... but still need to sort it out 
I think next thing is new coil pack, poss plugs as I know they can be cracked when fitted... then if still not sorted a good auto electrician which i know normally means lots of £££
I think next thing is new coil pack, poss plugs as I know they can be cracked when fitted... then if still not sorted a good auto electrician which i know normally means lots of £££
26 December 2013, 11:29 AM
#36
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Maybe, or maybe a connection or wire was near to becoming a problem and the engine swap created a poor connection.... but still need to sort it out
I think next thing is new coil pack, poss plugs as I know they can be cracked when fitted... then if still not sorted a good auto electrician which i know normally means lots of £££
I think next thing is new coil pack, poss plugs as I know they can be cracked when fitted... then if still not sorted a good auto electrician which i know normally means lots of £££
26 December 2013, 02:24 PM
#37
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I am just doing the logical step by step process of elimination.
I have a number of experienced mechanics who can help and advise in the elimination process, but I always join the owners clubs when I have a new toy, from my experience often members will know the problems with that particuler car and normally very helpful.
So it isn't a matter of 'slowing down', just want the car running as sweet as it did before the engine went bang on me, and want it sorted before the snow falls as it's a great car in those weather conditions.
I have a number of experienced mechanics who can help and advise in the elimination process, but I always join the owners clubs when I have a new toy, from my experience often members will know the problems with that particuler car and normally very helpful.
So it isn't a matter of 'slowing down', just want the car running as sweet as it did before the engine went bang on me, and want it sorted before the snow falls as it's a great car in those weather conditions.
26 December 2013, 08:40 PM
#38
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I am just doing the logical step by step process of elimination.
I have a number of experienced mechanics who can help and advise in the elimination process, but I always join the owners clubs when I have a new toy, from my experience often members will know the problems with that particuler car and normally very helpful.
So it isn't a matter of 'slowing down', just want the car running as sweet as it did before the engine went bang on me, and want it sorted before the snow falls as it's a great car in those weather conditions.
I have a number of experienced mechanics who can help and advise in the elimination process, but I always join the owners clubs when I have a new toy, from my experience often members will know the problems with that particuler car and normally very helpful.
So it isn't a matter of 'slowing down', just want the car running as sweet as it did before the engine went bang on me, and want it sorted before the snow falls as it's a great car in those weather conditions.
26 December 2013, 10:54 PM
#39
WTF... 
with all due respect just about everything you have said is 100% wrong, so wrong it would take to long on here explaining why... but you are entitled to your opinions.
For anybody else to does understand where I am coming from on this I will update after confirmation from Subaru UK ref the 'genuine' MAF sensor and the fitting of new high performance leads today.
with all due respect just about everything you have said is 100% wrong, so wrong it would take to long on here explaining why... but you are entitled to your opinions.For anybody else to does understand where I am coming from on this I will update after confirmation from Subaru UK ref the 'genuine' MAF sensor and the fitting of new high performance leads today.
If I remember rightly the p1 should log ignition faults ie misfire cylinder 1 etc have you had a scanner on it or just the plug under the dash.
29 December 2013, 09:30 PM
#40
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I don't think it does any harm to replace MAF and HT leads anyway tbh.
The diagnostic kit we had could not connect, so had to go by the flash codes.
Ref calling JGM or Duncan RaceDynamics etc... can only call people if I know about them, have never heard of these companies.
I am based in Haywards Heath (West Sussex), I was unable to find anyone to rebuild my old engine which run so sweet until it dropped the shell. Nearest place was a Jap specialist 15 miles away in Crawley but they send engines up north for rebuild and only remove and fit.
I think I must now fit new genuine P1 coilpack, then if still not sorted get it to a good mechanic I know to check out the wiring etc.
The diagnostic kit we had could not connect, so had to go by the flash codes.
Ref calling JGM or Duncan RaceDynamics etc... can only call people if I know about them, have never heard of these companies.
I am based in Haywards Heath (West Sussex), I was unable to find anyone to rebuild my old engine which run so sweet until it dropped the shell. Nearest place was a Jap specialist 15 miles away in Crawley but they send engines up north for rebuild and only remove and fit.
I think I must now fit new genuine P1 coilpack, then if still not sorted get it to a good mechanic I know to check out the wiring etc.
29 December 2013, 11:48 PM
#41
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Sounds like an air leak and the car thinks MAF is at fault due to unmetered air.
Check intake hose @ the turbo end for having split. This can cause issues.
Did you see this engine running before it was removed? And is this engine from another P1?
Check intake hose @ the turbo end for having split. This can cause issues.
Did you see this engine running before it was removed? And is this engine from another P1?
30 December 2013, 09:42 AM
#42
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I had no reason to believe engine was not running 100% as guy wanted me to see it running in car, also the engine was advertised on either this site or P1 owners club site and previous owner commented in post how good engine was, guy I bought engine from actually bought the car to break.
The engine was actually a P1 engine.
Have checked for air leaks... nothing found yet, but this appeared the first obvious thing to look for.
Ref the turbo, when I got car back after engine fitted the mechanic mentioned the turbo having a problem, a slight whistle which I had not heard before?
That has now got much worse and think turbo is on it's last legs... you mention intake hose into turbo, I will try to check this today.
Just to confirm when car returned it run fine and pulled extremely well with no problems until idle when hot, over the next few weeks I thought I could feel it pull back very slightly at times?
Now it has a serious running problem/misfire, but only started after I swapped the coilpack, but even with original coilpack refitted it still runs like s**t.
The engine was actually a P1 engine.
Have checked for air leaks... nothing found yet, but this appeared the first obvious thing to look for.
Ref the turbo, when I got car back after engine fitted the mechanic mentioned the turbo having a problem, a slight whistle which I had not heard before?
That has now got much worse and think turbo is on it's last legs... you mention intake hose into turbo, I will try to check this today.
Just to confirm when car returned it run fine and pulled extremely well with no problems until idle when hot, over the next few weeks I thought I could feel it pull back very slightly at times?
Now it has a serious running problem/misfire, but only started after I swapped the coilpack, but even with original coilpack refitted it still runs like s**t.
04 January 2014, 06:50 PM
#44
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New plugs fitted, couldn't see any problems with set removed and it didn't make any difference to the poor running
So it runs lumpy, like a misfire with poor idle (hunting).
Fitted new MAF, HT leads, Coilpack and Plugs.
The mechanic who changed engine had to fit injectors from my original engine, I suspect he didn't fit new seals, my understanding is they should have, or must be fitted when injectors changed... anyone else think this might be the problem?
05 January 2014, 11:06 AM
#45
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New plugs fitted, couldn't see any problems with set removed and it didn't make any difference to the poor running
So it runs lumpy, like a misfire with poor idle (hunting).
Fitted new MAF, HT leads, Coilpack and Plugs.
The mechanic who changed engine had to fit injectors from my original engine, I suspect he didn't fit new seals, my understanding is they should have, or must be fitted when injectors changed... anyone else think this might be the problem?
So it runs lumpy, like a misfire with poor idle (hunting).
Fitted new MAF, HT leads, Coilpack and Plugs.
The mechanic who changed engine had to fit injectors from my original engine, I suspect he didn't fit new seals, my understanding is they should have, or must be fitted when injectors changed... anyone else think this might be the problem?
07 January 2014, 04:54 PM
#47
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I had a mechanic check the Lambda sensor last night, but he said he could not access the connection on it, and the 16 point plug connection does not communicate either so still do not know if Lambda is ok?
I moved car today, for 10 minutes it drove perfect with no pulling back, decided to drive it home but 2 minutes later it started pulling back again, so it's back in garage.
The mechanic has commented that he saw many hoses without clips and thinks the problem could well be air leak in one of the hoses?
I moved car today, for 10 minutes it drove perfect with no pulling back, decided to drive it home but 2 minutes later it started pulling back again, so it's back in garage.
The mechanic has commented that he saw many hoses without clips and thinks the problem could well be air leak in one of the hoses?
08 January 2014, 07:10 PM
#49
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09 January 2014, 08:01 AM
#50
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Sounds like a "failing" lambda sensor i.e. it still gives a reading but is giving a wrong reading to the ecu when it heats up.
How does the car drive a few minutes after a cold start?
How does the car drive a few minutes after a cold start?
09 January 2014, 09:22 AM
#51
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But sometimes it runs perfect and fools you into thinking it might be ok, but then starts running badly again. It done this a couple of days ago when I started it from cold, tested it and it performed well with no hesitation or misfire, went to take it home and it started pulling back badly before I got 1 mile.
The idle has always been poor with 'hunting' when hot from day car returned with new engine. However I am keeping an open mind that it may have 2 problems.
09 January 2014, 09:28 AM
#52
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I can not get the mechanic/auto electrician to look at car again until next week and want it sorted asap before bad weather arrives.
I am thinking I may as well change the Lambda sensor given the comments on here, can anyone confirm exactly which Lambda is used on the P1 as I think there are a few types with 3 / 4 / 5 wires? also good place to buy, anyone bought from ebay?
I am thinking I may as well change the Lambda sensor given the comments on here, can anyone confirm exactly which Lambda is used on the P1 as I think there are a few types with 3 / 4 / 5 wires? also good place to buy, anyone bought from ebay?
09 January 2014, 10:27 AM
#53
Take it to slow boy racing ( just outside Brands Hatch) they are probably the closest specialist to you as all the people you have had looking at it so far clearly don't have the right kit or experience as is demonstrated in your thread.
Neil at Slowboy can check all the usual things and will have all the parts to hand like seals or whatever if something has been mis fitted. He's not a rip off merchant .
Also JGM who posted on here earlier is one of the most active of mappers for subarus and he is kent based so he might be useful as well.
Good luck
Neil at Slowboy can check all the usual things and will have all the parts to hand like seals or whatever if something has been mis fitted. He's not a rip off merchant .
Also JGM who posted on here earlier is one of the most active of mappers for subarus and he is kent based so he might be useful as well.
Good luck
09 January 2014, 01:32 PM
#54
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Thanks for that Fat Boy, I like the scooby and want to keep it, others around me are saying get rid of it but they aren't driving it.
I had to choose to sell my TVR or the Scooby, and for me there was only one obvious answer... so the TVR was sold.
I need to find someone I can trust to look at this car in the future, and not be a rip off merchant like the so called scooby expert who put the engine in for me.
I had to choose to sell my TVR or the Scooby, and for me there was only one obvious answer... so the TVR was sold.
I need to find someone I can trust to look at this car in the future, and not be a rip off merchant like the so called scooby expert who put the engine in for me.
14 January 2014, 08:02 PM
#56
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24 January 2014, 06:47 PM
#59
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Been messed about by the mechanic who was meant to look at it last week.
Another mechanic doesn't want to get invovled because it was a friend of his who done the engine swap and thinks he might be sorting out problems that should have been done by his mate?
So tomorrow I take out the Lambda sensor to make sure I get the correct one, and hope that fitting a new sensor sorts it out, seems if this car is to be sorted I need to do it myself.
Another mechanic doesn't want to get invovled because it was a friend of his who done the engine swap and thinks he might be sorting out problems that should have been done by his mate?
So tomorrow I take out the Lambda sensor to make sure I get the correct one, and hope that fitting a new sensor sorts it out, seems if this car is to be sorted I need to do it myself.