Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Are they grey's or yellows? A 20g as I understand is a 400BHP turbo, for which 740cc injectors are recommended (red like mine ). I'd imagine when you get it mapped it would just be mapped to x amount the injectors can take, meaning the potential of the turbo isn't used.
Or just sell the 20g to me

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Two things about that one - there's no mention of a gauge and all genuine SARD FPRs include gauges. Secondly, the subaru adaptor for the FPR position on the factory rails is £22, so add that and a gauge and it's no so cheap after all

*matthewturb2000*

iTrader: (11)

kwick ,ive got the yellows mine is phase 2, ive been searching for a big turbo for mine since i got the car lol its only 3 month old gleaming clean inside
jon, ill buy one get proof its fake send it back and get a double refund lol nahh not worth the hassle, i gota get a fpr im not in a overly rush to get my turbo on so if need bigger injectors ie pinks?i got a big japspeed fmic to go on aswell just got to get a fpr, and i wont be running 400 lol just want a modest 315-330 ish depends how safe and all that too ,its my daily driver(when its not broken) cheers guys

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Jon not sure if its genuine SARD,but from few forums posts looking like you have bought fake

http://www.silviawa.com/forums/index...howtopic=39446

http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/view...hp?f=4&t=41555

I would definitely speak with SARD and send them email with the pics

Buying those FPR,is risk,due this I would everytime go with Fuelab or Aeromotive(AEM doesn't cost too much)

Jura

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Jura what fpr would you recommend for to use with the braided lines?
Thanks

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

I definately have a genuine one - I have checked and the gauge and adaptor were added to the box. The fittings came in the sealed bag and the dots are on the return. The box is also the right one - I misread the posts about the gauge and have checked.

Worst case, it was a UK seller and not dispatched from overseas and I have a VAT receipt and warranty.

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

And it's black, not blue

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Fuelab is best(speak to Alyn@AS Performance or Mark@Lateral Performance)

We are using Fuelab and we never have problem with Fuelab,although older models have problems with the diaphragm when you are running methanol

Aeromotive is good too,AEM have great reviews over in USA on several forums(just be sure you have with latest diaphragm,rebuild kit cost around £30)


Jura

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Any of the brands mentioned will be fine as long as they come with either changable or AN fittings - the SARD ones can be swapped over from push to AN as required - I expect many others will too

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Check with SARD Jon

I would personally check,this will cost you nothing,maybe few minutes yours time and at least you will know for sure,its genuine and not the fake and will not cost you engine

Jura

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Trust me Jura, it's genuine - I've checked

wrx fifer

iTrader: (34)

I know quite a few people running between 4 and 500bhp with no parallel lines and cars have never missed a beat in years, I understand the running lean scenario these have on the last cylinder and when you hear it I think it scares a lot of people in to doing all this extra work, I fitted a fpr and just left the standard rails in place, and have just upgraded injectors to 650s and still left the rails in place, when andy forrest was asked last by a good friend on mind running 480 on a hawk, Andy's words were are you having fuelling problems, when told no he said well leave alone, so I think its one of those things that if it makes you feel better, do it, but if you are not having any problems then realistically there is no need, just my 2p worth, am running a billet 20g.

Grant

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Like I said Grant, it's a lot of work, but as I have the inlet off anyway it's not actually that much given that the inlet removal is a big chunk of the work. It also means I can smooth a lot more of the lugs off the manifold

chet123

iTrader: (7)

What's going on with the adaptor I've also bought same as jons. Are we sayin it won't come with the gauge or it won't be genuine? I thought the box contains everything ready for it to be fitted to existing fuel rails.

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Mine came with everything - they don't come as part of the package normally, but this guy adds the extras needed to make it a complete package

chet123

iTrader: (7)

Phew cheers look forward to mines now.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

I've got this FPR on my car Fuelab.

I didn't pay anywhere near that price though, in fact, I didn't actually pay anything for it.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

TO04 isn't a 16g, that's a TD05. And yes the big turbo (06/20g) will be too much for your injectors.

TD05 16g's do that all day long with ease.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Is there really any need for a gauge on an FPR? I won't know what it's telling me anyway.

Also am I right in thinking my 2 braided lines go to the FPR then one line goes from the FPR to the fuel pump?.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Without a gauge, how are you going to set the fuel pressure?

The return is return to tank.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for confusing me even more Micky lol

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

My pleasure mate.

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

OK found this thread which has helped after Micky fried my brain (It's not difficult)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1909985

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

There's a simple drawing in post 11...

https://www.scoobynet.com/showpost.p...0&postcount=11

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Christ I'm going to set fire to my own car

wrx fifer

iTrader: (34)

lol, yeah Jon our right if you have the inlet off and the parts..... think taking the inlet and engine loom out puts a lot of people off but looks more complicated than it actually is, once you start it's not a bad job to do

Grant

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Want to borrow my lighter?

It's not that hard, Al.

From the fuel filter, use a Y piece, and go to one end of each rail, must be the same ends.

From the other end of the rails, use another Y piece and go to the FPR. Then FPR to the return pipe.

That's the easiest way. I believe the best practice is to keep the fuel lines the same length when you split and rejoin them.

Look at it like this:

Intank pump -> fuel filter -> split to rails -> rejoin to FPR -> return to tank.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Micky, I just need to locate the return pipe.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Provided the fuel system never changed and it's the same as mine, then;