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build options with EJ22 block

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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 09:52 PM
  #31  
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Wiseco and they had the 5mm thick wall pins.

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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by redace
Wiseco and they had the 5mm thick wall pins.

We don't use Wiseco pins any more, not even in Wiseco pistons!
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 10:48 PM
  #33  
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You think pin flex Alan?
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #34  
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another view

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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 07:29 PM
  #35  
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and another

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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #36  
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im not a 100% but im sure the the piston webs have changed shape. The edges that are closest to where the conrod would be are now flared upwards and are also look like they have cracks in them.

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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 02:48 PM
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yhpm
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:51 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 2pot
yhpm
Replied to.

Ok so it looks like a 2.35 build again but im going to need a few bits.
The pistons have grabbed the pins and spun them in the little end of the rods so i need a full set of rods. The piston with the worst of the damage ( number 3 ) seems to have taken out the big end as well so i need a crank because i will not grind a 500bhp+ crank. The pistons as they have grabbed the pins have also tried to twist in the bores and the bores are scuffed and i will now need to go 1mm over to 98mm pistons.

So what parts are recommended for the job

Crank?
Pistons?
Rods?
Oil pump stock/11/12mm ?
Head gaskets?
Bearings ACL glide / race?

All opinions appreciated.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 09:02 PM
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yhpm
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 10:06 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by redace
Replied to.

Ok so it looks like a 2.35 build again but im going to need a few bits.
The pistons have grabbed the pins and spun them in the little end of the rods so i need a full set of rods. The piston with the worst of the damage ( number 3 ) seems to have taken out the big end as well so i need a crank because i will not grind a 500bhp+ crank. The pistons as they have grabbed the pins have also tried to twist in the bores and the bores are scuffed and i will now need to go 1mm over to 98mm pistons.

So what parts are recommended for the job

Crank?
Pistons?
Rods?
Oil pump stock/11/12mm ?
Head gaskets?
Bearings ACL glide / race?

All opinions appreciated.

Hi there

Depends on more factors(budget) and mainly power what you are looking to run

Crank should be enough standard EJ257

Pistons again depends on budget,Mahle Power pack are good and many people run them in high bhp

Rods again depends on budget and power what you are looking to run,but usually K1 rods,Carrillo rods etc.

Oil pump depends on cams are used and other questions,if you are looking to run aftermarket cams I would go down the route of the OE 11mm

HG Cosworth without the doubts

Bearings again ACL Race bearings


Jura
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 06:40 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by jura11
Hi there

Depends on more factors(budget) and mainly power what you are looking to run

Crank should be enough standard EJ257

Pistons again depends on budget,Mahle Power pack are good and many people run them in high bhp

Rods again depends on budget and power what you are looking to run,but usually K1 rods,Carrillo rods etc.

Oil pump depends on cams are used and other questions,if you are looking to run aftermarket cams I would go down the route of the OE 11mm

HG Cosworth without the doubts

Bearings again ACL Race bearings


Jura
Thanks for the reply. power wise i would like 600bhp and for it to stay in one piece. Budget will be what ever it takes ( within reason ) to build a reliable bottom end that that will do 600bhp and have some head room. Would be nice not to be limited by a budget and we could all have titanium crankshafts MMC conrods and beryllium pistons all in a one off closed billet alloy block with a dry sump.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #42  
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So a stock crank will be fine for 600bhp ish??
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by redace
Thanks for the reply. power wise i would like 600bhp and for it to stay in one piece. Budget will be what ever it takes ( within reason ) to build a reliable bottom end that that will do 600bhp and have some head room. Would be nice not to be limited by a budget and we could all have titanium crankshafts MMC conrods and beryllium pistons all in a one off closed billet alloy block with a dry sump.
Agreed there

Jura

Originally Posted by redace
So a stock crank will be fine for 600bhp ish??
Hi there

I would say yes would be OK,not sure if its possible to buy nitrated crank,few months has been problem to buy


Jura
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #44  
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I was using a HKS steel 79mm crank that was left over from my old 2.1 set up. I would love to use another steel crank K1, HKS, Cosworth etc but they are over twice the price of the standard crank.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 10:42 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by redace
I was using a HKS steel 79mm crank that was left over from my old 2.1 set up. I would love to use another steel crank K1, HKS, Cosworth etc but they are over twice the price of the standard crank.
HKS 79mm steel crank not sure,K1 or or others are not good as Arrow Billet crank,somewhere is the thread on the Nasioc about the those aftermarket cranks

Jura
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 01:30 PM
  #46  
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Thanks for the reply mate. So if i did not go with a stock crank you recommend the Arrow billet?
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 03:35 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by redace
Thanks for the reply mate. So if i did not go with a stock crank you recommend the Arrow billet?
Hi there

People running stock crank at high 700bhp without the issue,we will be running too stock crank

Arrow billet crank are probably best cranks from reading posts on the Nasioc or 22b


Jura
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by wms-racing
Ive built a few engines using the 83mm crank, including a 2.0 (2.25) it worked very well. Ive also got a 2.6 (83mm stroked 2.5) waiting to go in my JDM Bug STI, it should make a great road car when I can finally get time to do it!
Rod ratios, hmmmmmm, a very interesting one and I think alot of info is based on opinion rather than science/fact. My thoughts are that using an 83mm crank with short rods (128.5mm) gives a ratio of around 1.5 which is generally classed as the low side of std ratio, under 1.5 is said to be short. However there are alot of big V8 engines running 9k rpm and over that happily run well under 1.5 ratio.
The engines I have built and dyno'd/driven have worked very well. I will put a project thread up once I get the 2.6 sorted
What turbo and heads did the 83mm 2.0 use? Any graphs? What mods to the block, to get the crank in?
Didn't you use 130.5mm rods?
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #49  
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Everyone talks about stroking ie 2.0 to 2.1 / 2.2 to 2.35 and 2.5 to 2.6 or 2.7. What exactly is wrong with the ej22t on its own would it not be the middle ground between the 2.1 and the 2.35 ? Obviously forged I mean ?! Pls excuse my lack of knowledge.
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