STI V6 Silver New Arrival
#93
Yipppeee that's the car's all mot'd and finished and ready to be collected from RA once i paid the bill
Cant wait to get it home
Had a few thing's needed done before Mot,
Heater matrix hoses needed clamped ( Ooops i forgot!!! )
Oil needed changed 4th time since it's been running due fuel leaking past the dodgy injector seals ( all sorted properly )
New fuel line for the fuel return
new droplink on passenger front
Cant wait to get it home
Had a few thing's needed done before Mot,
Heater matrix hoses needed clamped ( Ooops i forgot!!! )
Oil needed changed 4th time since it's been running due fuel leaking past the dodgy injector seals ( all sorted properly )
New fuel line for the fuel return
new droplink on passenger front
#96
So glad to have the scoob home and being driven again. forgot how much more involved and fun a older car is :O
Few thing's now that would like to change or improve on
Change the Helix 5 paddle clutch back to exedy pink box with lightweight flywheel, or competition kevlar clutch. Only want to change as working in dyce in a Pain at the best of time's. and with the 11 month old in the back it can be a bit loud for at junction's when having to give a few more rev's. So going to stick it up for sale.
Swap the current FPR for a fuel lab one.
Find a better condition V5/6 STI TMIC
look for some decent Defi's for top console. Boost gauge on mine is knackered so any excuse lol , and would like some interior bling!!
Reseal rear light's as there's a leak somewhere filling the boot floor.
Tidy up the engine bay, ( Fit rally tech bolt's, Turbo blanket, Wrap down pipe, battery clamp's. repaint Inlet manifold and grind off any lug's not needed, paint washer bottle, fit alternator cover)
Save up for a full respray as need's it badly.
Cant think of anything else that's bothering me to be honest, but i am sure i will find something soon. Just love being able to drive her again after 2 year's. it's been to long and is fantastic to drive. The Alcon's are absolutely fantastic, braking force is so much better. Cant wait to get some new PFC bell's and rotors on there
Few thing's now that would like to change or improve on
Change the Helix 5 paddle clutch back to exedy pink box with lightweight flywheel, or competition kevlar clutch. Only want to change as working in dyce in a Pain at the best of time's. and with the 11 month old in the back it can be a bit loud for at junction's when having to give a few more rev's. So going to stick it up for sale.
Swap the current FPR for a fuel lab one.
Find a better condition V5/6 STI TMIC
look for some decent Defi's for top console. Boost gauge on mine is knackered so any excuse lol , and would like some interior bling!!
Reseal rear light's as there's a leak somewhere filling the boot floor.
Tidy up the engine bay, ( Fit rally tech bolt's, Turbo blanket, Wrap down pipe, battery clamp's. repaint Inlet manifold and grind off any lug's not needed, paint washer bottle, fit alternator cover)
Save up for a full respray as need's it badly.
Cant think of anything else that's bothering me to be honest, but i am sure i will find something soon. Just love being able to drive her again after 2 year's. it's been to long and is fantastic to drive. The Alcon's are absolutely fantastic, braking force is so much better. Cant wait to get some new PFC bell's and rotors on there
#100
Decided to make a start on getting the engine out and prepping the car for it's respray. Spent 2 hour's on it . Stripped the engine down to just needing the turbo to downpipe bolt's and the gearbox to bloc bolt's taken out. Amazing how much easier these car's are to strip down once you have done it a few times. Stopped there as waiting on getting my engine crane and stand back from a mate's over the next few weeks.
So the next bit was checking the foot well for water ingress from the leaky roof ( Next bit ), thankfully its bone dry and no rust seen from the inside. only cause for concern is the dash support bar on the driver's side and were the bonnet latch bolt's onto are looking rusty, solid however not there best. Also removed the twin gauge A pillar pod, looked naff and never fitted right. Whoever did the wiring for the AFR Gauge, and knocklink sensor. Didn't know stevie wonder took a interest in Car electric's!!. Plan on moving the Knocklink into the Driver's heater vent, and the AFR to just a single A Pillar Pod as discreet as possible. The boost gauge is no use as plan on going DEFI's in the center dash bit with Oil pressure and temp.
Here's the fun bit, the windscreen seal has failed badly in the top corner, Causing it to be come completely loose, can push the glass out about 1 inch by hand. If i was in a accident, then it probably fall out, rendering the airbag's useless and completely unsafe. Getting it cut out over the next week or 2 and see full extent of the damage.
So the next bit was checking the foot well for water ingress from the leaky roof ( Next bit ), thankfully its bone dry and no rust seen from the inside. only cause for concern is the dash support bar on the driver's side and were the bonnet latch bolt's onto are looking rusty, solid however not there best. Also removed the twin gauge A pillar pod, looked naff and never fitted right. Whoever did the wiring for the AFR Gauge, and knocklink sensor. Didn't know stevie wonder took a interest in Car electric's!!. Plan on moving the Knocklink into the Driver's heater vent, and the AFR to just a single A Pillar Pod as discreet as possible. The boost gauge is no use as plan on going DEFI's in the center dash bit with Oil pressure and temp.
Here's the fun bit, the windscreen seal has failed badly in the top corner, Causing it to be come completely loose, can push the glass out about 1 inch by hand. If i was in a accident, then it probably fall out, rendering the airbag's useless and completely unsafe. Getting it cut out over the next week or 2 and see full extent of the damage.
Last edited by quattroowner; 31 December 2015 at 04:11 PM.
#102
hi stevo.
yes the wiring is quite shocking, however i am getting there slowly with it. Saving up for the Defi's then ill look into sorting it properly.
With being made redundant 3 week's ago from a mobile tyre fitter and thankfully finding a job in a Bodyshop local to me is a step in the right direction
yes the wiring is quite shocking, however i am getting there slowly with it. Saving up for the Defi's then ill look into sorting it properly.
With being made redundant 3 week's ago from a mobile tyre fitter and thankfully finding a job in a Bodyshop local to me is a step in the right direction
#110
Brakes trial fitted up along with the new wheels.225 40 18 tyres on them unfortunately. Hope they don't run at the rear.
Going to clean up the calipers and get them bled over next few evenings
Really happy with the new wheels. Relatively new and got them for a bargain at 500
Engine is all up and running. Issue with lambda readings at idle, thankfully Russell noticed, trying a new lambda, earth connections replaced as only cleaned them before.
Going to clean up the calipers and get them bled over next few evenings
Really happy with the new wheels. Relatively new and got them for a bargain at 500
Engine is all up and running. Issue with lambda readings at idle, thankfully Russell noticed, trying a new lambda, earth connections replaced as only cleaned them before.
#112
Well finally some updates on this. Finally got the car down to the body-shop in Laurencekirk to get new sills and respray the roof and A Pillars. Turn's out the supposed "welding repair" by previous bodyshop mentioned a few pages ago is a complete and utter bodge. photos speak for themselves
The drivers side rear arch is completely filled with chemical metal and filler. Asked for a proper job of the arches to be welded barely 2 years ago. And this is what they passed off as welded and repaired properly.
Glad it's getting done by Scott and Martin who are adamant of doing it correctly. only 1 car gets worked on at a time so it's a quick turnaround and gets the full attention. Video below of the arch getting quickly sanded to show extent of the bodge
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...n2lR9y3HgOreQq
The drivers side rear arch is completely filled with chemical metal and filler. Asked for a proper job of the arches to be welded barely 2 years ago. And this is what they passed off as welded and repaired properly.
Glad it's getting done by Scott and Martin who are adamant of doing it correctly. only 1 car gets worked on at a time so it's a quick turnaround and gets the full attention. Video below of the arch getting quickly sanded to show extent of the bodge
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...n2lR9y3HgOreQq
#115
Well a lot of progress has happenend and car is very nearly there.
Bodywork was all sorted and carried out by lk autobody. Very happy and a bloody quick turnaround. Windscreen in aswell thanks to autoglass.
Decided to fit the refurbished rear 2 pots with new discs and pads. Much better over the standard 1 pots. While was all apart fitted some uprated cdf droplinks ( thanks to Simon for them ) and powdercoated the rear arb to cheery red to tidy it up a bit at thr back end.
Off to mot and sadly failed. Strut top corrosion on drivers rear . Well pissed off to say the least. However it wasn't all that bad and is getting all new metal tomorrow and back off for mot on the Saturday morning. Cleaned up all the advisories as well so hopefully all clear this weekend
Also got some defi's in the pipeline as well once all threw mot.
Barely got one finished and just started on the next one. The p1. The same car welder who is doing the sti tomorrow, is going to quote for 2 new rear strut top mounts, sills and inner and outer arches for the poorly p1. Plan on getting the windscreen out over next week or 2 and see how bad the a pillars are.
Roll on Saturday and a road legal scoob for first time in 2 1/2 years
Bodywork was all sorted and carried out by lk autobody. Very happy and a bloody quick turnaround. Windscreen in aswell thanks to autoglass.
Decided to fit the refurbished rear 2 pots with new discs and pads. Much better over the standard 1 pots. While was all apart fitted some uprated cdf droplinks ( thanks to Simon for them ) and powdercoated the rear arb to cheery red to tidy it up a bit at thr back end.
Off to mot and sadly failed. Strut top corrosion on drivers rear . Well pissed off to say the least. However it wasn't all that bad and is getting all new metal tomorrow and back off for mot on the Saturday morning. Cleaned up all the advisories as well so hopefully all clear this weekend
Also got some defi's in the pipeline as well once all threw mot.
Barely got one finished and just started on the next one. The p1. The same car welder who is doing the sti tomorrow, is going to quote for 2 new rear strut top mounts, sills and inner and outer arches for the poorly p1. Plan on getting the windscreen out over next week or 2 and see how bad the a pillars are.
Roll on Saturday and a road legal scoob for first time in 2 1/2 years
#117
All mot'd and repaired. Rot on the drivers rear strut top mount was worse that feared, however was confined to the outer side so all cut out and welded in with new metal.
Next few things for it are 3 piece front splitter ( if I can find one)
Timing belt and oil pump
Defis ( oil temp, pressure, boost , afr) to pay off and get fitted hopefully at same time as the belt
Then time to look into engine options while keeping the 5 speed box in situ
only issue is when the engines cold or not up to temp it can stutter and pop when starting to build a bit of boost. <0.5 bar. Don't go above that until oil temp up there.no cel and not there when engines warm
Next few things for it are 3 piece front splitter ( if I can find one)
Timing belt and oil pump
Defis ( oil temp, pressure, boost , afr) to pay off and get fitted hopefully at same time as the belt
Then time to look into engine options while keeping the 5 speed box in situ
only issue is when the engines cold or not up to temp it can stutter and pop when starting to build a bit of boost. <0.5 bar. Don't go above that until oil temp up there.no cel and not there when engines warm
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18 November 2015 07:49 AM