silkolene pro-r 10w 50
#32
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For a 10w-40 to attain the specification target a 10w (w = winter) the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity at low temperature. The actual viscosity and the temperature vary with the viscosity grade but in all cases the lower the number, the thinner the oil.
For example a 5w oil is thinner than a 10w oil at temperatures encountered in UK winter conditions. This is important because thinner oil will circulate faster on cold start, affording better engine protection and therefore lower long term wear.
For a 10w-40 to attain the other specification target a “40” oil must fall within certain limits at 100 degC. In this case the temperature target does not vary with the viscosity grade, if there is no "w" the measuring temperature is always 100degC.
Again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a “30” oil is thinner than a “40” oil at 100 degC, which is typical of maximum bulk oil temperatures in an operating engine.
With regards to 5w oils...
Check your handbook as for most post 2000 scoobs the recommended oil is in fact 5w-30 or 5w-40 so unless you've modified the hell out of it this recommendation still applies. If you have heavily modified a 10w-50 or 15w-50 is a good choice. A 10w-60 is really only necessary in the most extreme of cases and where fuel dilution is a major problem.
Cheers
Guy
For example a 5w oil is thinner than a 10w oil at temperatures encountered in UK winter conditions. This is important because thinner oil will circulate faster on cold start, affording better engine protection and therefore lower long term wear.
For a 10w-40 to attain the other specification target a “40” oil must fall within certain limits at 100 degC. In this case the temperature target does not vary with the viscosity grade, if there is no "w" the measuring temperature is always 100degC.
Again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a “30” oil is thinner than a “40” oil at 100 degC, which is typical of maximum bulk oil temperatures in an operating engine.
With regards to 5w oils...
Check your handbook as for most post 2000 scoobs the recommended oil is in fact 5w-30 or 5w-40 so unless you've modified the hell out of it this recommendation still applies. If you have heavily modified a 10w-50 or 15w-50 is a good choice. A 10w-60 is really only necessary in the most extreme of cases and where fuel dilution is a major problem.
Cheers
Guy
#33
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how often shouod you chamge the oil on a modified scoob
mine is a classic , roughly 300 bhp
how long will the oil give optimum protection
the car doesnt do a lot of miles per year, but gets driven hard on occassion.
is 6monthly ok?
mine is a classic , roughly 300 bhp
how long will the oil give optimum protection
the car doesnt do a lot of miles per year, but gets driven hard on occassion.
is 6monthly ok?
#35
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If you use your car in arduous conditions/use e.g. live in a dusty area or do a lot of towing where it places higher loads on the motor, then a revised down 3-4mnths or 3-4k miles would be a sensible action.
The full Ester fully synth Pro S in your car, by its very chemical composition, is designed to 'stay in grade' for longer i.e. its molecular integrity is maintained (as its designers intended) for longer, when compared to a semi or mineral.
If you rag your car like your life depended on it on a pretty much daily basis, then only then I would consider doing 3mth/3k ml fully synth oil/filter changes...
Last edited by joz8968; 30 January 2010 at 05:39 PM.
#36
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na ive got too much mechanical sympathy, it gets an occasional boot,
and its a 2nd motor so wouldnt even do 6k a year
ill just stick to 6 monthly changes
cheers
and its a 2nd motor so wouldnt even do 6k a year
ill just stick to 6 monthly changes
cheers
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