How strong are the 6 speeds
14 July 2009, 01:32 PM
#122
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are 6 speed boxes easy to come by?? im just trying to get as much info as my scoob is coming off the road soon to be used soley as a project car, not sure what my ultimate goal is yet but probably going to be more of a show car than a big power beast but will want more power maybe 350 ish but im not rolling in cash so limited what i can do.
14 July 2009, 01:42 PM
#124
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sounds good 
the reason i was asking was i thought if i got a good box to start then if i decided to go more power later then i would already have a strong box, it the same plan with the clutch, was thinking an ap racing one?? but dont really know much about them
the reason i was asking was i thought if i got a good box to start then if i decided to go more power later then i would already have a strong box, it the same plan with the clutch, was thinking an ap racing one?? but dont really know much about them
14 July 2009, 01:48 PM
#125
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Good clutches aint cheap, dont get a paddle one, I have one fitted and its horrid 
an organinc is much nicer (saving for one of those already 
) but its not top of my list just yet 
Gearboxes can be had from the likes of Untitled if they have any in stock (though there are more breakers around)
Tony
an organinc is much nicer (saving for one of those already ) but its not top of my list just yet Gearboxes can be had from the likes of Untitled if they have any in stock (though there are more breakers around
)Tony
14 July 2009, 01:54 PM
#126
If you buy a six speed now you won't have to worry about your tranmission. If you do think you'll go beyond 350 -400 then I would seriously consider getting a six speed and just be done with it. You're wasting money if you think needing a six speed in future is a possibility.
if you can honestly say that you wont go beyond 350 then look at the 5 speed as Banny suggests. Be aware though that they do break at that level it just depends how you treat them. Personally I'd go for a 6 speed, time and time again. Once you get used to them They are a lovely Box. Clutch wise again depends on power. I ripped the centres out of two AP's at 360bhp. I bought a second hand uprated Exedy organic for £40 to tie me over until I got a twin plate and it lasted another 30000 miles LOL
But again if you see yourself going above 400 then you really only have a couple of options Twin Plate or one of ACT's offerings. HTH
if you can honestly say that you wont go beyond 350 then look at the 5 speed as Banny suggests. Be aware though that they do break at that level it just depends how you treat them. Personally I'd go for a 6 speed, time and time again. Once you get used to them They are a lovely Box. Clutch wise again depends on power. I ripped the centres out of two AP's at 360bhp. I bought a second hand uprated Exedy organic for £40 to tie me over until I got a twin plate and it lasted another 30000 miles LOL
But again if you see yourself going above 400 then you really only have a couple of options Twin Plate or one of ACT's offerings. HTH
14 July 2009, 02:14 PM
#127
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14 July 2009, 02:49 PM
#129
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ok cheers, i just happen to have one sitting in my shed incase my ty752 box ever decided to explode, Would these (the P1 v6box) be a straight fit to a RA with DCCD then?
14 July 2009, 03:08 PM
#131
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14 July 2009, 04:46 PM
#132
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Would it be possible to get hold of the forester ratios & fit them in a non forester box, or are they a JDM thing only? I know the forester 6 speed is like rocking horse **** to get hold of. cheers
14 July 2009, 07:32 PM
#134
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That made some great reading.
I use RCM and to be totally honest mate reading this post does not suggest it's the Olly Clark that I know
Last edited by SkullFudge; 14 July 2009 at 07:33 PM.
14 July 2009, 07:42 PM
#135
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So the Hawkeye has the same ratios then? I was wondering that actually. I had a look at that transmission codes website but I was unsure which one was the Hawkeye box.
14 July 2009, 09:07 PM
#136
Hello Neil,
I think you will have to excuse some of the replies your getting regarding the power output of your car, as it is on the optimistic side, but that's not to say you're not getting those numbers out of the machine.
The RCMS graph put up by banny is the only time the car was dynoed properly at that time, and I think was done with the 4088 turbo, and it compares well with some similar spec engines I've seen. However in comparing the Dynapack hub dyno to the Dastek Rolling road of AI, you will find the Dynapack puts out hub figures around 20hp higher when looking at cars in the 500hp range. However that is very dependant on the gear you use on the Dastek.
I have a little experience of running high powered cars on a Dastek dyno, and have found that it's very important to be strapping them and running them properly, otherwise it becomes very difficult to get an accurate flywheel figure generated from the coastdown losses.
To give you something to compare with, when running a powerful subaru, I have seen 603hp at the wheels running in 5th gear, and 704hp at the flywheel. I couldn't run it in 4th gear due to slip, but I would expect higher wheel power figures due to lower wheel speed.
For your own information, you can look at the dyno graphs on a dastek where it shows the coastdown losses, and make sure the curve-fitted coastdown losses line the software generates, plots neatly though the negative wheel power figures created on overrun, which will have a hump at the end, which the fitted curve will ignore. However it's sometimes difficult for the "hump" to not screw things up.
600+hp is certainly attainable on a GT35 with the right fuel/engine combination, but I wouldn't want to be the person responsible for having to pay for the rebuild on a subaru engine making 650+hp on a GT35.
Either way, all dynos can make mistakes, except one, it's black and 1320 feet long
I think you will have to excuse some of the replies your getting regarding the power output of your car, as it is on the optimistic side, but that's not to say you're not getting those numbers out of the machine.
The RCMS graph put up by banny is the only time the car was dynoed properly at that time, and I think was done with the 4088 turbo, and it compares well with some similar spec engines I've seen. However in comparing the Dynapack hub dyno to the Dastek Rolling road of AI, you will find the Dynapack puts out hub figures around 20hp higher when looking at cars in the 500hp range. However that is very dependant on the gear you use on the Dastek.
I have a little experience of running high powered cars on a Dastek dyno, and have found that it's very important to be strapping them and running them properly, otherwise it becomes very difficult to get an accurate flywheel figure generated from the coastdown losses.
To give you something to compare with, when running a powerful subaru, I have seen 603hp at the wheels running in 5th gear, and 704hp at the flywheel. I couldn't run it in 4th gear due to slip, but I would expect higher wheel power figures due to lower wheel speed.
For your own information, you can look at the dyno graphs on a dastek where it shows the coastdown losses, and make sure the curve-fitted coastdown losses line the software generates, plots neatly though the negative wheel power figures created on overrun, which will have a hump at the end, which the fitted curve will ignore. However it's sometimes difficult for the "hump" to not screw things up.
600+hp is certainly attainable on a GT35 with the right fuel/engine combination, but I wouldn't want to be the person responsible for having to pay for the rebuild on a subaru engine making 650+hp on a GT35.
Either way, all dynos can make mistakes, except one, it's black and 1320 feet long
14 July 2009, 09:53 PM
#138
Before the blame for this going tit's up is dropped at my door I would like to point out the following:
It was all nicey nicey and we were all willing to give our advice and opinions until posts 19 and 25 which caused this to go the way it has.
Admittedly perhaps I could have been a bit more tactile but that never has been one of my strong points.
It was all nicey nicey and we were all willing to give our advice and opinions until posts 19 and 25 which caused this to go the way it has.
Admittedly perhaps I could have been a bit more tactile but that never has been one of my strong points.
14 July 2009, 10:21 PM
#139
Nobody's blaming anyone Daz. Just thought I would add some factual points to the discussion.
It's worth making sure the dyno figures are correct and repeatable, otherwise it's difficult to asses the gains you're making along the way. For instance I've seen people lose power after mods, because the car started slipping on the rollers, some rolling road "centres" will just say your car is crap and send you on your way, whereas some will ensure you're getting what you paid for from the dyno.
It's worth making sure the dyno figures are correct and repeatable, otherwise it's difficult to asses the gains you're making along the way. For instance I've seen people lose power after mods, because the car started slipping on the rollers, some rolling road "centres" will just say your car is crap and send you on your way, whereas some will ensure you're getting what you paid for from the dyno.
16 July 2009, 12:34 AM
#143
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Neil, Would love you to take your car to a proper Subaru mapper like Andy Forrest or JGM. The difference in my car was day and night.
I would say Ai rollers are the most accurate we have here in N. Ireland and understand why you use them.
I wouldnt take anything away from you and your car as I know everything you have went through to get to this stage and I am really pleased for you. The only thing I would say about their power figures from what happened with my car is that it was mapped on the rollers to produce high BHP figures but drove like poo on the road.
You know how I feel about Ai and just hope it was Jonny who done all the work for you and not the incompitent person who couldn't put any of the bolts back in on the correct threads on my car.
BTW did you not go 2.2?
I would say Ai rollers are the most accurate we have here in N. Ireland and understand why you use them.
I wouldnt take anything away from you and your car as I know everything you have went through to get to this stage and I am really pleased for you. The only thing I would say about their power figures from what happened with my car is that it was mapped on the rollers to produce high BHP figures but drove like poo on the road.
You know how I feel about Ai and just hope it was Jonny who done all the work for you and not the incompitent person who couldn't put any of the bolts back in on the correct threads on my car.
BTW did you not go 2.2?
28 July 2009, 01:45 PM
#145
unless I'm mistaken that's my old P1 box you have - if I'm right about you having my box, then it had it's original viscous centre diff replaced with a dccd centre diff for about 18 months before I sold it to you with the original viscous centre diff back in place (funnily enough all done by Lord Pavlo here
). dccd and viscous centre diffs are a straight swap as long as front and rear diffs and transfer ratios match.The point of all this baloney is to back up Banny - it definitely can be fitted to a dccd set up as that's what I did ( p1/stiV/Sti Vi front and rear diffs are 4.44 with 1:1 transfer gears) so a straight swap.
Great thread by the way - shame the Op's rocket ship wasn't available for TOTB ( or the Hungarain GP)
08 August 2009, 09:33 PM
#149
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UPDATE **UPDATE
As yet unconfirmed reports of the fastest Subaru in the world running a 10.99 at a drag racing event today.
I will update for sure once I get proper timings for the day.
Rumour has it that Ollie Clark is envious and wants a copy of the map used!
As yet unconfirmed reports of the fastest Subaru in the world running a 10.99 at a drag racing event today.
I will update for sure once I get proper timings for the day.
Rumour has it that Ollie Clark is envious and wants a copy of the map used!
