I'm assuming you have read this thread before asking?

No, you shouldn't do as you ask.

The position of the oil PRESSURE sender is placed so as to give the best, most indicative reading. It just happens to be where SUBARU put the oil pressure warning light switch, so use a T-piece there if you want to keep that too.

The tappings above cylinder 3 are there because that cylinder is known for running hottest, so that's the best place to take an oil TEMPERATURE reading.

Of course, you can cut corners...it's your car after all.But why would you? You've got decent gauges, put the senders in the correct places.

 

I did read over it, sorry if it seemed I hadn't
I found it quite difficult to visualise the placement of the sensors from the text and wasn't aware of the oem pressure warning light sensor at first.

I've since learnt of the correct way to do it and have just purchased a bung adapter for the temp sensor

Now I just need to figure out how to daisy chain the Autosport (Prosport?) Oil temp gauge in to the defi ones, im sure it can be done as there are 4 wires involved similar to the Defi daisy chain wires however they're coloured Red, blue purple and black so a tad confusing

 

You can't use other gauges in a daisy chain with the defi.

 

did you try this to see what happens?

 

Nah, I scrapped the Kit I bought from a member on here as it was a load of fake defi stuff and bought a new set of gauges and did it the recommended way.

 

hi I am having problems with my subaru impreza turbo awd 1997 UK speck it was runing standard then I put a dcat straght trough system with front mounted intercooler now my car cuts boost at 1.2 psi on the boost gadge I've upgraded my turbo to a vf34 and it just got more vilont people say to me that it needs a remap now because of the dcat what do you think

 

of course it does.

 

I have just bought the same gauges and need to fit them to a Blob STI. Is there a guide with photos for Newage anywhere?

I also would like to know how on earth the gauges are held securely into the Scoobyworld pod? Two seem OK but one is loose.....

 

On mine, into the same sort of pod, I placed the gauge and held it in place with masking tape, then applied four small blobs of clear silicone, from behind, at the junture of the gauge and pod. It has never moved since, but COULD be twisted out if necessary.
The pod is held down with same, and has been successfully removed and refitted with no adverse effects.

 

Good idea!

 

Hey, any chance we can get pictures up for the guide?
The guide is helpful, just I get a bit lost occasionally without the pictures.

I've got the ProStepper Pressure, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and the Fitting Kit.
So yeah, some fixed picture links would be great?

Cheers,
Chris.

 

Sorry, I don't have any pics, I did this well before thinking of doing a "how to".

 

Don't know if it will help, and I didn't take pics with a guide in mind, but here's what I have from fitting mine.

This is where the stock oil pressure switch is and where you put the gauge sender usually:



This is with the sender plumbed in and the original switch plumbed into that. Not the clearest pic but you can see the braided silver hose:



It's worth noting that you'll need a length of electrical wire and male and female spade connectors to keep the stock pressure switch connected.

Here's where I put the wiring through the bulkhead. It comes in up above the pedals for me and is secured out of the way:



Here's the oil temp sender in the location on top of cylinder 3. Not wired in in the photo yet, intercooler out:




Hope that at least helps a little bit