I mean look at this

 

I'm still curious as to how many batteries that car has to run!!

Adam, you will have mail shortly!

Cheers
Andy

 

"Now where did I have to put the key in"

 

Steve,

There were a few problems with the old style ERL pumps, mainly due to mounting location, and water ingress. I think you'll find that this is no longer an issue.

It's SO simple to rig a dash warning light up, to let you know if the pump fails, I'm surprised you haven't/didn't do it

This of course only applies to the 1S system, as the 2S system has many built in safety features.

Trouts already mentioned that his map was fine prior to fitting the WI, but WI allows you to take things a step further. Another reason for fitting WI, if you have a "high end" ecu, such as the Motec M48pro, or Pectel T6 (this excludes you Trout is that surprisingly, they don't have knock control, and if you want to run a "hot" ignition map, you don't have the luxury of the ecu retarding the ignition. However, I'm sure you know that the ecu can compensate for AIT, EGT, and a few others

So by running a "compromise" WI set up, you get more power, and increased safety, unlike Trout, who just uses WI to "compensate" for his mapping guess that should include me too........

Mark.

 

Dingy,

I wish I had your car as well!!!!!!!

Trout

 

Mark,

that's the last time I let Truda feed you lovely food mate!

Trout - crap mapping but at least consistent - 346 in November; 345 in January!

 

This may answer some questions:

http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET

 

What fuel pump do you guys recommend to upprade to ??,
And were to buy it ??

/Jan

[Edited by Mr J - 1/27/2002 11:38:06 AM]

 

In a MY2000 what is the recommended fuel pump (brand-type)?

 

hi all.
the nisan skyline gtr fuel pump is a direct swap with a flow of 240-280 lph , apexi / hks / greddy all sell that pump .

 

My ECU setup is fine, runs all the bits it needs to, pectel is a the daddy

As for lights on the WI, got that, this cost Mike Rainbird an engine realling on WI. So i think i will just use this as a safety measure.

 

While setting up an FSE fuel pressure regulator I noticed something "odd"... as the (simulated) manifold pressure was raised, the fuel pressure tracked, but only up to about 1 bar boost (4 bar fuel pressure). At this point the fuel pressure would not raise any further regardless of what I did with the air pressure and/or the adjustment screw. It would appear that the stock fuel pump (at least in *my* car) has a relief valve operating at about 4 bar.

This means that above 1 bar boost, the relative fuel pressure (which, after all determines fuel flow) decreases. Ie instead of having a 3 bar difference as expect, at 1.3 bar one would only have 2.7 bar difference, and hence would flow less fuel. I now have a larger fuel pump, one which can flow about 210 litre/hour at 8 bar (God only know what it'de do at 3-4 !)

I now have 550cc injectors and run about 4 bar fuel pressure difference. With the "booster" pump enabled it runs very sweet and doesn't really work the injectors very hard. With the booster pump off it becomes so lean on boost that it missfires; it just cannot deliver the pressure (it is already maxed out at atmospheric with the fuel pressure I run).


Hope this helps,

Pat.

 

Anyone know what is the pressure difference with the stock fuel pressure regulator ?????

Carlos H.

 

Dumb question time - so I guess what we are saying is that fuel pressure must fight against air (ie; boost) pressure to get into the cylinders? Doh - never really thought of it like that before, lol!

Powerstation sell an uprated pump that can deliver 195 litres per hour at 3 bar, and is rated to 6.5 bar. It costs £145 plus tax. Does anyone know of any others, or tried the PS one?

To add the Carlos' question, how do you change the fuel pressure anyways? Must you change the regulator, or modify it?

Thanks
Richard

 

Pat:

The oe fuel pump does not have a pressure bleed off on it. What you were seeing was a knackered fuel pump.
If you put a fuel pressure gauge on the car and clamp the return, from the regulator back to the tank the gauge will show fuel pump maximum pressure. You should see at least 5.5 bar. If working correctly the fuel pressure should track the boost pressure perfectly no matter what boost you run. If it does not then you are likley to damage your engine.

Rich