which engine oil would you recommend?
23 January 2008, 11:49 AM
#93
Did you read that on a forum? Or a mate, or even a dealer?
Show catorgoric proof that this is the case. In the form of a issued TSB. Because every time I have questioned anyone who has said that, has failed to come up with the proof. And I have been unable to find it myself, so have concluded that its a load of conjecture (bullcrap) spread by our gossiping old freind, the internet!
Which makes sense; as a 0w-40 should perform no different to a 10w-40 once at normal operating temperature. If anything the 0w-40 is highly likely to be a synthetic oil (or one using midfied base stocks) whereas nearly all 10w-40 are typically semi-synthetics. So the 0w-40 should be be better in almost all cases.
Even hydraulic lifter noise is not an issue - its a noise, nothing else. If anything, should they drain down, they will refill quicker with a 0w oil on cold start.
Mobil make all sorts of grade oils under the Mobil one brand. As do Castrol with their Edge and Magnatec brands. But only a very narrow range of which is availble on the shelf at a motor factors. But through trade sources, one can obtain virtually any grade under the sun for each brand.
It won't be a "Special" oil. As Subaru don't have their own oil standards; they just go along with the basic Api grade that is current at the time. (unlike BMW, Merc and VAG).
Show catorgoric proof that this is the case. In the form of a issued TSB. Because every time I have questioned anyone who has said that, has failed to come up with the proof. And I have been unable to find it myself, so have concluded that its a load of conjecture (bullcrap) spread by our gossiping old freind, the internet!
Which makes sense; as a 0w-40 should perform no different to a 10w-40 once at normal operating temperature. If anything the 0w-40 is highly likely to be a synthetic oil (or one using midfied base stocks) whereas nearly all 10w-40 are typically semi-synthetics. So the 0w-40 should be be better in almost all cases.
Even hydraulic lifter noise is not an issue - its a noise, nothing else. If anything, should they drain down, they will refill quicker with a 0w oil on cold start.
Mobil make all sorts of grade oils under the Mobil one brand. As do Castrol with their Edge and Magnatec brands. But only a very narrow range of which is availble on the shelf at a motor factors. But through trade sources, one can obtain virtually any grade under the sun for each brand.
It won't be a "Special" oil. As Subaru don't have their own oil standards; they just go along with the basic Api grade that is current at the time. (unlike BMW, Merc and VAG).
I have debated this on many occassions but you're wasting your time here.
A 40 is a 40 is a 40 at 100degC, the W number is cold crank flow characteristics and the lower the better.
Some reading here required plus many others I have posted over the years!
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-answered.html
Cheers
Simon
23 January 2008, 12:03 PM
#94
This was written some years ago so applicable to pre 2000 scoobs but has been the best advice we have had on the topic (I believe it was originally commissioned by SIDC).
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/lubri...e%20Subaru.doc
With regards to newage cars, surely if Subaru recommend 0w-30 or whatever they know what they are doing.
Unless your car is highly modified or used off road I can see no reason to follow their advice unless of course.................you know better!
Cheers
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/lubri...e%20Subaru.doc
With regards to newage cars, surely if Subaru recommend 0w-30 or whatever they know what they are doing.
Unless your car is highly modified or used off road I can see no reason to follow their advice unless of course.................you know better!
Cheers
23 January 2008, 12:13 PM
#95
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Cool. My car is a 300bhp-ish 2001 WRX. I would think that is "lightly" modded and that the Silkolene Pro S 5w40 is suitable ?
23 January 2008, 12:21 PM
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This was written some years ago so applicable to pre 2000 scoobs but has been the best advice we have had on the topic (I believe it was originally commissioned by SIDC).
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/lubri...e%20Subaru.doc
With regards to newage cars, surely if Subaru recommend 0w-30 or whatever they know what they are doing.
Unless your car is highly modified or used off road I can see no reason to follow their advice unless of course.................you know better!
Cheers
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/lubri...e%20Subaru.doc
With regards to newage cars, surely if Subaru recommend 0w-30 or whatever they know what they are doing.
Unless your car is highly modified or used off road I can see no reason to follow their advice unless of course.................you know better!
Cheers
IN YOUR FACE!!!!!
*Runs before someone can contradict me, or tell me to grow up!*
23 January 2008, 12:41 PM
#99
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23 January 2008, 04:32 PM
#102
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wow, just read the oil post, and i think i kinda understand it, and it seems 10w-60 is too thick at 100degc, will this have an adverse affect on the engine or turbo? or is it ok, but 10w40 would be better? would would be the consequences of using 10w60, should i take it easy until i get chance to change the oil, and should this be done asap?
edit, just dug out the manual and it specifies 5w30 (SM or SL grade? and if this is not available SJ?) i'm a little worried now tbh.
edit, just dug out the manual and it specifies 5w30 (SM or SL grade? and if this is not available SJ?) i'm a little worried now tbh.
Last edited by gallois; 23 January 2008 at 04:45 PM.
23 January 2008, 05:08 PM
#103
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10w40 In my Classic 87,000mls still going strong
I've owned my 1998 uk classic from new, done 87,000 miles, regular oil changes with 10w40 semi synthetic (Shell Helix) as recommended by Subaru, oil never needs topping up between services, never broken down... If this post does'nt break it nothing will...
24 January 2008, 07:57 AM
#105
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Remember that: a XW-40 oil after 4000 miles maybe only is a XW-30 oil. Viscosity will change after time (fuel, water, oxidation etc.). The temperature in the oil gallery can be lower than the temperature in the turbo. Viscosity does not say all. Two synthetic 10W-40 oils can be very different. The oil you use should fit the way you treat your engine and so should your oil changing periods.
24 January 2008, 08:58 AM
#106
wow, just read the oil post, and i think i kinda understand it, and it seems 10w-60 is too thick at 100degc, will this have an adverse affect on the engine or turbo? or is it ok, but 10w40 would be better? would would be the consequences of using 10w60, should i take it easy until i get chance to change the oil, and should this be done asap?
edit, just dug out the manual and it specifies 5w30 (SM or SL grade? and if this is not available SJ?) i'm a little worried now tbh.
edit, just dug out the manual and it specifies 5w30 (SM or SL grade? and if this is not available SJ?) i'm a little worried now tbh.
So a 10w-60 will be 71% thicker than a 5w-40 and 118% thicker than the recommended oil.
If this is not a highly modded car than 10w-60 is just plain wrong.
What could be the consequences? Take a read of my ramblings here >>>
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/10w-60.doc
Cheers
Simon
24 January 2008, 09:13 AM
#109
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As for suitability, what model year is your car, is it modified , and do you do much track work?
Ns04
24 January 2008, 09:28 AM
#110
The best way to illustrate a specific grades behavior at varying temps is below. Even an old fashioned monograde sae 30 fares well apart from cold crank or temps below 0degC!
Grade......0degC.................10degC........... .......40degC...................100degC
5w-30........654...................... 338..................... 74...........................12cst
0w-40........665.......................354........... ...........82...........................14cst
5w-40........874...................... 440..................... 91...........................14cst
15w-40.....1260.......................595............. .......107......................... .14cst
10w-50.....1034...................... 537....................116........................ . .18cst
15w-50.....1535...................... 735....................135........................ .. 18cst
20w-50.... 2300......................1013...................1 57.......................... 18cst
10w-60.....1553........................795............ .......165...........................24cst
SAE 30 1914....................... 784...................108......................... ..12cSt
Always use the correct grade on unmodified cars, 30, 40, 50 etc.
If the car is highly modified do yourself a favour and seek some proper advice.
Recommend me an oil
Cheers
Simon
Grade......0degC.................10degC........... .......40degC...................100degC
5w-30........654...................... 338..................... 74...........................12cst
0w-40........665.......................354........... ...........82...........................14cst
5w-40........874...................... 440..................... 91...........................14cst
15w-40.....1260.......................595............. .......107......................... .14cst
10w-50.....1034...................... 537....................116........................ . .18cst
15w-50.....1535...................... 735....................135........................ .. 18cst
20w-50.... 2300......................1013...................1 57.......................... 18cst
10w-60.....1553........................795............ .......165...........................24cst
SAE 30 1914....................... 784...................108......................... ..12cSt
Always use the correct grade on unmodified cars, 30, 40, 50 etc.
If the car is highly modified do yourself a favour and seek some proper advice.
Recommend me an oil
Cheers
Simon
Last edited by oilman; 24 January 2008 at 09:32 AM.
24 January 2008, 10:15 AM
#112
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Oilman you can't say that a SAE number equal x centistokes. It's a range. A SAE 30 is at 100 C. 9,3-12,5 cSt. A SAE 30 oil can be close to a SAE 40 or a SAE 20. Some 10W-40 oils should only change a litle bit after some driving and then it's a 10W-30.
Last edited by Torben; 24 January 2008 at 10:19 AM.
24 January 2008, 10:36 AM
#116
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This really is confusing!
24 January 2008, 10:44 AM
#117
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Sometimes things are great in theory, not so great in practice! The best thing to do is listen to the people who take impreza engines apart on a daily basis. i was recomended pro s 10w 50 so thats wot i put in my car since my rebuild (except the first 1000 miles which were done on mineral oil). You cant do better than fully synth! before my scoob i had a bmw for a bit, it had allways had fully synth in and ive no reason to believe otherwise! when i sold it the clock showed 302000k miles!
24 January 2008, 10:45 AM
#118
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Oilman, the importend to know is that it's a range and that a 10W-30 easily can be a 10W-20 after 4000 miles. If you are in doubt how well your oil is doing in your engine, you can for about 50 £ get it analysed.
Last edited by Torben; 24 January 2008 at 10:48 AM.
24 January 2008, 11:25 AM
#119
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I think Oilman gives the best counsel, if the car is std, refer to the user manual and do what Subaru say - it's worth paying the extra for a fully synth of the grade they reccommend as theses are better oils, but if you can't/don't want to then it's not a biggie.
However, if the car is modified or gets beyond normal road use, you should seek professional advice i.e. not most of us on here!
Ns04
Last edited by New_scooby_04; 24 January 2008 at 11:29 AM.