Parallel Fuel Rail Mod
#61
I think you want to reject the heat on a manifold and the original silver would be much better than matt black. You can't ignore physics and matt black is probably the best thermally conductive colour.
I really don't know why something that is as straight forward as this is being made more complex:
No cutting, no flaring of ends, no special fuel rails just very simple and even pipe lengths.
I really don't know why something that is as straight forward as this is being made more complex:
No cutting, no flaring of ends, no special fuel rails just very simple and even pipe lengths.
#62
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Hi scoobyboy !
In theory yes, but if the first three injectors are all flat-out then the remaining fuel goes to the last injector, then to the regulator....
So it is possible for there to be a pressure drop to the last in-line. Then your number 3 piston melts and it's game-over.
IMHO
DunxC
In theory yes, but if the first three injectors are all flat-out then the remaining fuel goes to the last injector, then to the regulator....
So it is possible for there to be a pressure drop to the last in-line. Then your number 3 piston melts and it's game-over.
IMHO
DunxC
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Hi scoobyboy !
In theory yes, but if the first three injectors are all flat-out then the remaining fuel goes to the last injector, then to the regulator....
So it is possible for there to be a pressure drop to the last in-line. Then your number 3 piston melts and it's game-over.
IMHO
DunxC
In theory yes, but if the first three injectors are all flat-out then the remaining fuel goes to the last injector, then to the regulator....
So it is possible for there to be a pressure drop to the last in-line. Then your number 3 piston melts and it's game-over.
IMHO
DunxC
#64
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Well I'm not really that bothered about parallel lines; what I'm concerned with is moving all the fuel plumbing out from under the manifold as with 10mm spacers in there, the inlet pipe is way way out of alignment. I personally can't understand why anyone would do this mod just for fun LOL
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"OK without getting too technical black absorbs the most energy which is true however the energy is transferred, whether it's via convection (air to air as in your intercooler), via conduction (liquid/solid to solid/liquid as in your radiator) or via radiation (electromagnetic waves i.e. radio waves to microwaves).
The idea of a black intercooler means that it will absorb the heat (which is energy) from the air INSIDE it which is likely to be warm having been rudely thrust there by the turbo. This heat is then transferred into the metal work of the intercooler and of course up the cooling fins.
These cooling fins are exposed to the cold air from outside the car made available via the bonnet scoop in a TMIC or grille in FMIC. The cold air will take this heat (energy) off the tips of the cooling fins, thus making them colder than the core.
And if anyone remembers any laws of thermodynamics where entropy always increases overall (all you need to know is the hot ALWAYS goes to cold to balance out - if anyone ever says, "Shut the door your letting the cold in", I will give them a dry slap) they will know that the hot core of the intercooler will always give it's heat out to the cooler fins (even if they are only slightly cooler). This is the reason an intercooler splitter works to reduce charge temperatures so well - as more cold air hits the fins, taking more heat away, making the difference in temps between the fins and core greater, making the core give up more heat, making the air inside it denser [and breathe].
Conversely a silver coloured intercooler will do the same job (silver both reflects and absorbs heat[energy] averagely), though just not to the same extreme as a black will [absorbs the most, but reflects the least]."
#66
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My concern is that the six year old petrol hose may not like having 3.5 bar rudely thrust through them....
Flame on !
DunxC
P.S. Getting really close to doing this tomorrow !
Flame on !
DunxC
P.S. Getting really close to doing this tomorrow !
#69
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Floyd as Daz said, it was a cut and paste after your post. My physics teachers also taught me that (only 25 years ago though ), but I really liked the way psigeek explained it so thought I'd borrow it.
Daz, I have some sticky reflective tape which I will be apply next time I remove the IM...I just wish I'd thought of it the first time round.
Daz, I have some sticky reflective tape which I will be apply next time I remove the IM...I just wish I'd thought of it the first time round.
Last edited by trails; 30 March 2008 at 08:23 PM. Reason: older than i like to think :D
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You need some gold leaf as used in the engine bay of the Maclaren F1, and by NASA for satellites... The best heat reflector I'm aware of !
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. Not cheap at the moment !
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. Not cheap at the moment !
#73
i could see how it works if the pump supplied just enough for each injector but it doesn't it supplies more than they need hence the need for the return line, the regulator sits in this thus keeping the fuel pressure at the injectors at a constant pressure. when you boot it obviously they use more fuel so the regulator adjusts to keep the fuel pressure the same i can't see how one can get less fuel than the others
doh it's making my head hurt now trying to figure this out!
doh it's making my head hurt now trying to figure this out!
#74
BTW, I have spacers on my manifold so it's not a huge problem with the original hard fuel lines. I hadn't seen anyone decouple the coolant reservoir before I did it too and show it on my project thread.
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Floyd's thread (from about two years ago..?) has a lot to answer for, with regards to a lot of the diy/economical mods I've done to my car (parallel fuel mod aside)..
IMHO one of the best was the extra hose from fuel pump return to sock. I've never had any fuel surge, even when running fumes..
Keep it simple..
IMHO one of the best was the extra hose from fuel pump return to sock. I've never had any fuel surge, even when running fumes..
Keep it simple..
#76
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All academic now anyway as I finally finished the whole job last night; Samco inlet pipe on, canister pipes now in rubber hose attached to top of engine rather than bottom of IM, reg moved to the n/s IM between the two runners, fuel inflow running from filter directly to a tee in between the back two injectors, front two injectors are teed to go out to the reg, plus also now running a twin catch tank system with rocker cover breathers teed around the front of the IM close to their own dedicated catch tank.
Never again...hopefully!
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Scoobyboy... back again LOL
It's all about reaching the limits of the standard system, and avoiding the possibilty of maybe 1% too little fuel reaching the odd injector. In extreme circumstances this COULD lead to damage.
So unless you have a bucket of cash for a new forged 2.5 build you do your best....
Bit like oil coolers, not always necessary, but COULD save you an engine re-build !
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. Just found that my -6 hose won't clamp to standard fuel lines LOL !
It's all about reaching the limits of the standard system, and avoiding the possibilty of maybe 1% too little fuel reaching the odd injector. In extreme circumstances this COULD lead to damage.
So unless you have a bucket of cash for a new forged 2.5 build you do your best....
Bit like oil coolers, not always necessary, but COULD save you an engine re-build !
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. Just found that my -6 hose won't clamp to standard fuel lines LOL !
#82
Floyd's thread (from about two years ago..?) has a lot to answer for, with regards to a lot of the diy/economical mods I've done to my car (parallel fuel mod aside)..
IMHO one of the best was the extra hose from fuel pump return to sock. I've never had any fuel surge, even when running fumes..
Keep it simple..
IMHO one of the best was the extra hose from fuel pump return to sock. I've never had any fuel surge, even when running fumes..
Keep it simple..
I've taken that spec to many trackdays and the Ring. Where else can you get that much power for so little money with all the safety margin features?
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