Motul the oil magpies would choose. Lol.

 

Anyone else using Castrol 10/60 without a problem? For comparisons sake mine's a MY00, tek3, associated mods, approx 260 brake, 260 lbs/ft. Be interested to hear from any long term user of this product who's suffered a failure/problem relating to it. Yet to see or hear any evidence of a real world user who's encountered an issue because of it, even though it seems to be fashionable to criticise it at the moment.

 

Ive had no problems having my MY01 WRX serviced at Halfrauds, £28 plus VAT, and they use fully mineral 25/40 oil too, only the best.......

While you wait, you can buy some nice performance parts, off the shelf.

I got a set of Tweety Pie car mats and sun shades, they are really cool.

 

Oilman advised me against RS10w60 as it's a little too thick.
Must agree with you though, had absolutely no problems with it for the last year, the engine runs like new, it doesn't use any oil, and when I drop it out after 3-4k miles, the oil doesn't look too bad.
He advised Silkolene Pro S 10w50 or Motul 300V 10w40.
I have 5 litres of RS left though, so i'm using it again for next change.

 

For what it's worth, my '05 JDM STI had its first service at Powerstation on Friday and they used Silkolene Pro-S 10W50

 

Are fully synths recommended for lower perfomance engines? My dad reckons he's been told a semi-synth is better for your average ~100bhp family car doing cold starts and stop-start driving. His Corolla and my Impreza GL are what I'm interested in. While I realise most people wouldn't be interested in what oil they were putting in such cars, we want to use the best, so do I follow the above advice for fully synth at the correct viscosities for each car?

i.e. Could someone settle my and me old man's argument please

 

scoobyster.

It boils down to cost really.

Synthetics are better lubricants point but it's a question of cost/benefit. If the vehicle doesn't warrant the cost due to age or value then the benefits will be marginal but it's personal choice really.

All cars benefit from superior lubrication in a long term wear scenario.

Cheers
Simon

 

Scoobyster,


Mineral oils have limitations and have to be changed on a regular basis.
Synthetics do not have these limitations and can be changed less frequently but cost more. There is a type of synthetic called esters that are very expensive but have excellant properties for using as oil. They become more cost effective when used for longer change intervals (or required for high performance) and are therefore added to basic synthetic oil. These esters have the ability to cling to engine parts and therefore do not drain back and provide a constant film of oil, which should allow better protection re cold starts. The minimum amount of ester required for this is about 10-30%.

The only mineral oil which I am aware of that includes esters is Castrol Magnatec termed part synthetic.

If other semi synthetics are a mix of mineral and basic synthetic then I cannot see much advantage in using them, apart from cost benefit as Simon mentioned.

At the moment the basic synthetic can also be split into two types a true synthetic and a very pure mineral oil which is cheaper to produce and has nearly all advantages of basic synthetic but not esters.

The oil companies can provide a varying mix of above to provide an oil that suits what the car owner is prepared to pay. Unfortunately they are not required to disclose this information. There is another importent consideration which is additive pack but there is usually even less information about this aspect.

IMO the key element for the best oil is the ester content.

 

Esters are the key to a making an oil great not just good.

Esters

All jet engines are lubricated with synthetic esters, and have been for 50 years, but these expensive fluids only started to appear in petrol engine oils about 20 years ago. Thanks to their aviation origins, the types suitable for lubricants (esters also appear in perfumes; they are different!) work well from –50 degC to 200 degC, and they have a useful extra trick.

Due to their structure, ester molecules are “polar”; they stick to metal surfaces using electrostatic forces. This means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period. This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non-pressure fed film has to hold the surface apart. Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film.

Cheers
Simon

 

simon,i mailed you about some,15/50 motul 300v comp oil
12 litres delivered to devon,u replied on 8 litres but i need 4.5 for oil change so will get 12 then thats my next 2 sorted and some left for topping up, plz reply dazza1802@aol.com
cheers
daz

 

Good thread this. Very informative. I've got a couple of questions...

1. As the warm up procedure is so important before "giving it some", does a certain viscosity of oil warm up faster than another?

2. I've used Motul 300v 15w50 since I bought the car, and have dregs left over in several cans. I was thinking of changing to the Chrono 10w40 on the next change, as it appears to be more suitable than the 15w50 for a lightly modded car that will never see a track, and better for the winter. As I need approximately 4.5 litres, would I be able to use 4 litres of 10w40 and up to 500ml of 15w50? Or am I just being a tight **** with my money...?!

 

Firstly, it's about circulation and the thinner the oil, the quicker it circulates when you turn the key. It's always best to let the car warm up before giving it some.

Don't mix different viscosities.

Cheers
Simon

 

Not sure if It was mentioned above, but which available to the public oils are high ester containing ?

At what viscosities, and what sort of price?

Thanks

Neil
{Currently Castrol 10/60 ! )

 

all of the Motul 300V are full ester synthetics and the Millers "competition" range are high in esters also..................

alyn - asperformance.com

 

I'm not sure of the content in Millers but I know that Motul 300V and Silkolene PRO S and PRO R have high ester content (in relation to "high" anything around 20% is a very good number. Many oils labelled ester based are less than 5%) you can look at the technical data sheets for the above oils here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

Some of the Motul 8100 range also have ester in them but I'm not sure of the content I'm afraid.

Viscosities are as follows:

Silkolene PRO S 5w-40 and 10w-50
Silkolene PRO R 15w-50
Motul 300V 0w-20, 5w-30, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-50 & 20w-60

Hope this answers,

Cheers
Simon

 

I understand that Redline Engine Oils are Ester based also.

 

I believe they are indeed but unable to establish the content etc as they will not divulge the secret ingredients!

Cheers
Simon

 

Thanks for the reply. Won't mixing 4 litres of 10w-40 with 1/2 litre of 15w-50 of the same brand produce a viscosity slightly thicker than 10w-40...?

 

Erm yes in theory but we don't recommend mixing different viscosities.

Cheers
Simon

 

That's fair enough. I know I'm being a tight **** for mentioning it () but as long as it's not gonna damage anything, seems silly to throw away perfectly good 15w-50, and purchase more 10w-40 than is necessary. And it's not as if I'm mixing mineral oil with synth, or different brands... thanks again.

 

Motul says they are all mixeable except the 5W/40, I don't know about other brands but when I asked the same about the Castrol RS series (10-60 mixed with 0-40) the answer was No.
JIM

 

Cheers Jim, straight from the horses mouth is good enough for me...!

 

FAO Stockcar - alynperformance Re - Millers "competition" range (CFS)
How does this oil perform as an everyday lubricant? Does it have the detergent and other packages desirable for day to day use? I'm currently using Millers XFS 5/40 Have you any info. as to the ester content (if any!) of this oil?
JohnD

 

This is the very question I'm looking to find the to. I'm having to use the phone now to research as the laptop is broken and researching is a nightmare so if anyone can help me out that we be great.

 

The XFS is a good day to day oil, I consider it more of a normal use oil than performance option.

Cheers

Tim

 

Oilman - I have a MY99 classic thats covered 129K miles and the front diff is noisey on overrun but gets notably worse once its warms up and I've done a few miles. It engages gear just fine, but the car owes me very little, and would like to get some use and life out of the box and diff before I think about changing it.

So thinking along the lines of putting some thick gearoil in to help dampen down the noise once its warm. In consideration it would let go at any point I don't want to put anything expensive in.

Therefore can you recommend me a cheap thick gear oil that will help with a noisey front diff that gets worse as the oil get up to temp.

Thanks
Rob

 

Hi Rob

There are two options I can suggest, the Motul 80w-140 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-896-motu...osynthese.aspx or the Redline Friction Modifier http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-6320-red...-additive.aspx. They might get you a few more miles out of it, but they aren't a guaranteed option.

Cheers

Tim

 

Thanks and thanks for link, will probably give the motul a go - I accept its only delaying the envitable and might not even make a difference, but compared to the alternative its a cheap option and a quick possible fix. So worth a punt as they say.

I've covered about 700 miles now as it is, and it dont seem to be getting any worse, so fingers crossed it might help/work and at least take the car round to when the MOT expires.

 

Hi oilman is mobile one 0w-40w ok for a new sti thanks

 

What's the opinion on Amsoil 10/40 ??