Bob Rawle

Simon I was not apologising to you specifically but to the community at large, however that does include you.

I would agree a 60 grade oil is bad news under cold conditions but we are talking 10-60 or 15-50 or 10-40 or whtaever, the debate here , from my part, is not about any particular grade or make but about the fact that I don't agree that Silkolene oil, in particular Pro S, is better than the others mentioned, in fact I re-iterate I consider it worse. And, how long does an engine stay cold after starting, not very.

When mentioning Silkolene being a relative improvement, and also wrt 5-30 it should be clear that I was refering to the fact that I did find the Silkolene better than a 5-30 oil which is, I would point out, the recommended oil by Subaru for normal use, they do not recommend that grade for heavy use or "high speed driving".

Now you will say this is a load of tosh but any oil that behaves "like" a 5-30 under these conditions is not good, I reiterate that certainly Pro S is not capable of holding up under heavy use in the same way as the other brands and grades mentioned.

I also reiterate that I am NOT talking about Castrol RSW 10-60 in isolation, my "prefered" chioce is the Motul M300V Competition 15-50 in fact however there is no significant difference between the two under conditions of my use.

As an engineer you are right I do appreciate the enuity of pressure v flow ... which is why I made the point btw.

BTW I will reply to the pm however I have only just got in from a day in the wilds of leicestershire so bear with me on that.

cheers

bob

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Quote:

Originally Posted by krazy

I got a question...

Apologies, I seem to have missed this one.

It's because more of the thinner oil goes through the bearings etc, and less through the pressure release valve. Also there is cavitation; if the oil will not flow into the pump fast enough, it will generate pockets of vacuum as it rotates. (Ceasing to be positive displacement.)

Hope this helps,

Cheers
Simon

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Just to clarify some points on the different types of esters debate

Quote John Rowland:
Neopentyl esters on average have a lower VI than the advanced diesters we use, so in a motor oil formulation they contribute less to the ‘multigrade effect’, which means more VI improver polymer. (The even more compact trimellitate esters, with 6 central C atoms, actually have lower VIs than mineral oil, in some cases.)

Diesters are not necessarily ‘long’ molecules if the alcohol side-chains are branched, as in the ones we use.

Even esters (all types) depend upon anti-oxidants to prevent breakdown at high temps. Even a very stable ester such as a trimellitate needs antioxidant protection.

In a mineral/ester blend, it is pointless to use an extremely heat-stable ester, because the mineral base will form deposits in (eg) turbo bearings well before the ester does.

The more compact ester molecules tend to be less polar, so they contribute less to anti-wear/friction.
Unquote John Rowland:

Cheers
Simon

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Just to mention that if you want any further advice or a recommendation I have access to the largest proprietary database in europe and can check the actual oil recommendation for your Scooby. It would assist me if you could give the following information when enquiring:

Make, Model, Year, Engine Size, Any Modifications, Type of driving.

I can be contacted via this forum or by email here as it's available for all to see.

If you're interested in technical data then look here:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

I'd be more than happy to help anyone looking for the "right" oil for their car.

Cheers
Simon

CataIunya

So whats the best oil again

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Dunno mate, "I know nothing" even though I rum my own oil business

Cheers
Simon

SomeDude

Now now, no sulking allowed here

Each BBS has it's own dynamics it seems.

Over the years, many people that have (or had) a "name" in Scoobyland recommended running the Castrol 10W60 for tuned Imprezas. Given that the M3 runs the same oil, some Porsches do, and quite a few of us do track days, it kinda made sense. Many people outside this BBS working on cars (not oilmen, I admit) confirmed 10W60 as a good choice.

You are the first "voice" to call this oil "not suited for your cars". You can't expect everyone else to suddenly say "ah, OK, we'll change".

I'm intrigued and on the fence, so I'm looking for further debate on this. That's not the same as "people aren't listening" is it ?

oilman

iTrader: (9)

somedude,

Thanks for your comments, I've cheered up now.

I've not much more to add other than what I've already said and of course as I've said all along, oil is a personal choice however....................

In the latest Porsche Club Magazine there is an interesting article called "oily myths and rumours" which acknowledges Castrols contribution, I can't post it all because it's too long but it refers to Porsche's approval of Castrol 10w-60.

Quote Castrol:

"I can confirm that Porsche are currently only approving 0w and 5w oils for general use. Where approved oils are not easily available Porsche currently allows the use of full or part-synthetic products meeting the ACEA A3 specification and having a viscosity of 0w-40, 5w-40 or 5w-50 Previously approved oils are also acceptable, except for the 996 derivatives.

Our current Porsche approved oil in the UK is Formula RS 0w-40 and this approval covers all current and previous models as stated on the Porsche approval document.

Regarding your 993, I can advise that Formula RS 10w-60 was also approved up until 2000. Because there is a cost involved in the approval process and 10w-60 does not meet Porsche's current viscosity requirements, this approval was not renewed."

I can only reiterate the fact that it does not appear in your handbooks and therefore should not be used.

I would also state again that oil "thickness" does not relate to protection, film strength is far more important than the viscosity.

Unfortunately I'm bound by confidentiality concerning the lab report I have on Castrol 10w-60 but I can only say it's pretty average and if you'd like to know what the chemical analysis amounted to then maybe you should email me and I'll let you know the outcome without posting it on a "public" forum.

My email address is: sales@opieoils.co.uk

Hope this helps,

Cheers
Simon

yoza

I have read this post from start to finish, it has been extremely enlightening.

Now can someone tell me where the bonnet pull is on a MY01.

Thanks.

SomeDude

Yoza, I don't think the MY01 Honda Insight you apparently own has a bonnet, or oil for that matter

Simon, I will mail you.

But I'm not really being qualified as a chemical engineer, so I may not understand much of the report ?

One other thing, and I hope you don't mind me saying: I have - over 14 years of internet encounters - somehow learned to be extremely prudent when the person bringing news about product a, b, or c, is in turn a "sales weasel".

Don't get me wrong, I cast the term with tongue in cheek but I do remember very few people who were selling stuff (be it pro music equipment, turbos or koi food) to be "impartial". I know about 3 actually...

Now it's obvious you sell Castrol as well, so I don't think it's a "brand" thing in this case, and your posts are well constructed, so you "have my ear"

I also had some very pleasent encounters with a Dutch guy from Kendall Oil, who recommended 5W50 oil for our cars (preferably Kendall of course), and went through the trouble (and still does) of taking used oil samples and giving a (blind) report on them. (he still does this in his own free time up until today BTW)

One of the problems he found with our oils was fuel dilution (sorry if this is not the technical term) and silica for people with non standard paper filters...

He recommended frequent oil changes, especially before and after track days.

As a sort of "trick question" (I'm really not good at trolling LOL): what's your opinion on Kendall ?

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hmm Kendall, here's an honest reply as usual - Never heard of it.

Re: Castrol 10w-60, no probs, if people want it then they know where to come for a good deal but as I've said before, I won't recommend it and that's the difference!

Cheers
Simon

Gavin S

I agree with everything John says - indeed they are facts, not opinions.

I, similarly, was stating two facts:
1) Diesters and polyol esters have significant differences.
2) Red Line use minimal VI improvers.

Best wishes,

Gavin

SomeDude

Fair enough: http://www.kendallmotoroil.com/

I will mail you when I get home re: the Castrol report.

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Gavin,

Nice to have a fellow "oilman" on the boards, if you would like to discuss anything at all, please feel free to PM me.

Cheers
Simon

BigGuy

I've had my STi7 modified by Digit Power in Switzerland. They run all sort of cars in 24 hrs "Tuning endurance races on the Nurbergring and Hockenheim. Their tuned cars make it on TV DSF which is the German equivalent of Eurosport, and numerous car magazines. They also consistently finish 1st, 2nd and 3rd in these endurance races with STi's modified to the same spec as mine and Evo's. They recommended - in fact insisted - that Castrol RS 10w-60 be used they also mentioned Motul (but it's harder to get here).

My dealer who races and goes to Hockenheim every other weekend also told me to use only Castrol RS 10w-60.

My car which now has 79,000 kms of fairly brisk driving and many, many trips from Zurich to Stuttgart and back on the autobahn runs beautiful and doesn't have the slightest problem. I use this oil year round and never have a problem in the winter. All I do is change the oil every 6,000 kms. (My previous WRX had 187,000kms
on this oil before I traded it in. It was totaled the first week by the next owner)
Subaru's are not your every day car as surely you can feel when you get under the hood/bonnet in the middle of a hot summer day.

I will stick with this oil and higly recommend it with no reservations.

BTW I do NOT work for Castrol.

I hope this will be the last thread on oil - I think most people have had enough of them.

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

Wow this really is a great thread, i never really thought (as most people dont) that oil choice had so much to play in engine life/performance!

Keep it going guys, please

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Although I think this thread may be approaching its natural end, I would still like Oilman (or anyone else with the appropriate expertise) to give some opinion or tech. info. on Valvoline "Synpower" 5/50 full syn. (now labelled "Racing" I believe) and the Millers XFS 5/40 and 5/50 grades (Millers is becoming increasingly popular?)
JohnD

oilman

iTrader: (9)

We have access to reports and files on these oils, however the chemist who has them is on holiday at the moment. I will talk to him on his return.

I will be in touch on this one.

Cheers

Simon.

Markyboy uk

OILMAN, I'd be interested to know what would be your recomendation for "lubricating a Subaru" Gearbox & Rear Diff.

Thanks
Mark

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Cheers Simon, I look forward to any info. you can provide.
JohnD

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Mark.

All Subaru Impretza's require a 75w-90 gear oil. Depending on which model you have the diff is supplied by the gear box.

We have a selction of good quality gear oils we can supply.

E-mail me for prices.

Cheers

Simon.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

You mean that the front diff is supplied by the gearbox - just in case some unfortunates think that you mean the rear diff too !

David APi Engines / APi Impreza

oilman

iTrader: (9)

You are quite right, I should have been more precise.

Am I right in thinking that there is only one 2Wd Impreza? the 2.0i sport produced from 1996 - 2000?

Cheers

Simon.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Dunno mate, we're elitist turbo specialists

David APi Engines / APi Impreza

Markyboy uk

Simon, I know the correct gearbox/R diff oil rating but I was wondering what you considered TO BE a "good quality gear oil"

Thanks
Mark.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Anything from a major oil co: Shell, Castrol, BP, Motul, Mobil, Millers - that sort of stuff. Even synthetics of same companies would be a good idea.

David APi Engines / APi Impreza

oilman

iTrader: (9)

I my honest opinion the Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90 ester fully synthetic gearbox and diff oil.

You cant go wrong with this.

Cheers,

Simon.

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Oilman - Hope this won't stop you providing the engine oil info I requested, but - I put Silkolene 75/90 full syn. in the g/box of my 99my (at approx.10k miles) when I had it and it stopped the synchro from working properly when changing from 4th to 5th at reasonably high revs - it crunched! Changed to Castrol Syntrax pretty quick and this totally cured the problem! I guess the Silkolene was too slippy?? It now resides in the transaxle of the wifes Nissan Primera and seems fine! (It would be at the revs she uses)
JohnD

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Of course not

Don't know why that should be the case, FS or SS 75w-90 is the recommended grade so it shouldn't be a problem. The Syn 5 75w-90 is suitable for use in manual transmissions and final drive units including road and competition limited slip differentials. It meets GL5.

Cheers
Simon

Bob Rawle

John, I had exactly the same problem when I first used the same oil in my STi2 wagon, I then stuck with Subaru's finest semi synth which happened to be Shell, came in their own blue Subaru drums as well and I had no problem ever aagain.

Like you currently using Syntrax in the STi9 and no problems.

Its a known fact that the Subaru gearbox synchro needs "driving" and that fully synth is, as you say, too slippy.

bob