Yes I have the correct setting for my set up, so for half the price I can have Subaru make sure it's set correctly when putting new tyres on ect,

Obviously if I upgrade anything suspension wise I'll go see Peter again and make any adjustments to the geo that are needed.

The settings I sent you are what peter put on my car with.
Bilstein dampers
Eibach springs
Eibach adjustable roll bar
Anti lift kit
Ad08r tyres

I'm not sure you will get the same effect though, as you have lowering springs fitted to your Bilstein's and probably not much or even no bump travel.
They were designed to work with the Prodrive/eibach springs.

The lower ride height will also add more camber that you may not be able to reduce with the stock camber adjustment.

 

40mm is way to low. Your have no bump travel on the front! And your control arms will be parallel or even pointing upwards.

Is the 40mm from oem Sti ride height or Rb320 height?

 

The setup is rb320 bilstein dampers and tein 35-40mm lowering springs. Tbh I dont think its that low though! IT definitely doesnt look that low. When I get a chance I will post a pic.

 

Measure from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel arch.

 

It is too low.

Lowering that much lowers the roll centre so that the car rolls MORE, hence the poor handling.

 

Both front and back measure 340mm.

 

Mine is 355 front 365 rear on the rb320 springs.
How do your control arms look with your ride heigh? They should have a downward angle to them so you get good camber curve and a high roll centre.

 

This is how it looks. A very slight downward angle.

 

Is it me or does the inside of that tyre look really bald?

 

Tbh I knew it was low but not that bad! I will be changing the wheels this weekend anyway as those are my temps whilst I got my pff7s refurbed!

 

Love those wheels mate, be nice after refurb

 

I went for something different with the refurb! Wont be to everyones taste but its nice to be different. Heres a little teaser:

Hopefully will have them fitted this weekend.

 

no mate i really like them!

 

Thanks bud will post a picture up once fitted!

 

That's wrong!
The highest point should be the middle of the car sloping down to the wheel hub, the rear is so low that your arms are in the wrong direction! (Pointing upwards)

As it stands at the moment you loose camber as the suspension compresses, this reduces grip during cornering and affects stability over bumps.

Here's mine for comparasion


When the control arm is positioned like this you have a high roll centre, giving the car stability,

Also get good camber curve as the lower arm moves up during hard cornering or over bumps, this means the bottom of the hub gets pushed out increasing camber.

The way yours is positions the arm pulls the hub inwards reducing camber and stability!

Add this to the fact that must have very little If not no bump travel I guess your cars handling is quite poor at the moment.

The same goes for the front of the car!

 

One more thing to add, this will also help reduce tyre wear on the inside of the tyre,
If your car has good camber curve you can run less static camber, so when your driving on the motorway your using the full width of the tyre not the inside edge.

Then as you go into a hard corner the lower arm moves up pushing the bottom of the hub outwards increasing camber as you need it.

I've just taken my AD08r tyres off for the winter and as you can see the tyres are all evenly worn across the width of the tyre even with toe in front and rear.

 

FB will do a good job for about the same money as you've been quoted. Note that this includes the cost of renting the ramp and Hunter equipment (FB does not have his own setup) plus his time.

Alternatively, you could do a bit of research on here (lots of threads on the topic), work out some specs that would suit you, then take them to your local Hunter place, which you can find here: http://www.alignmycar.co.uk

Typical cost of having Hunter adjustments done to your supplied specs is £70-95 depending on how much needs to be done.

 

So as it stands at the moment my uneven tyre wear is due to the camber being out from the incorrect angle of the control arm compared to yours? Is this something that can be adjusted with my setup then?

I think I may even try Neil @ slowboy racing as he is closer and ive read nothing but good reviews. Not sure if he does the wheel alignment tho?

 

Not directly but could be indirectly contributing to your inside tyre wear. It could be that your car has been set up with lots of negative camber to help compensate for the over-lowering, which causes an excessive increase in positive camber experienced as the suspension compresses. It's difficult to say without knowing the current settings.

If you can get hold of some RB320 springs you will be amazed at the handling difference after a good alignment. Might not look as good though.

 

Your tyre wear is due to incorrect camber and toe settings, But when your geometry is set up correctly the tyre wear will be even.

Even if you go get the car aligned so that the toe and camber is correct, you still have the rest of the geometry like roll centre and camber curve messed up!

It will look good but it's going to drive crap. You really need the correct springs for the dampers, your roll centre will be where it needs to be, your have a good camber curve and the bump travel you need for a fast road car,

Then you can put the correct settings on the car.

You can't really lower MacPherson strut suspension that much before it becomes detrimental to peformance.

If your car has a double wishbone or upper and lower control arms its a different story.

There's nothing worse than a car on the bumpstops with messed up geo bouncing and crashing of every bump in the road, it's not fast and not fun!

 

Ok so just for arguments sake would coilovers be any different?

 

Nope! Same rules apply!

 

Yep, Rich is fantastic

 

Only if you set the ride height back to standard, or not more than 20mm lower than standard.

TBH, you can't have it both ways on these cars. They are set up for rallying: grip, low amount of body roll, half decent handling...but they are fairly high ride height....look at any forest rally car, it's the same.

If you don't like the ride height, you CAN go lower, but you need to spend a lot of money to keep the levels of grip, handling etc you already have. Tarmac rally cars do it...but at a cost

It's like anything else with these cars...they are a bit special, so you have to be careful what you do.

Your car, your choice: put the ride height back, and have the grip/handling, or have it lowered and lose the handling. grip and have excess tyre wear.

 

Been following your thread..
You are local to me ..I know a guy at waltham Abbey who has a garage and race prep business. He does four wheel alignment. He has a rally car and competes in the British championship. He said £45 for a check and adjust 4 wheel alignment. Details are
IPB Motors 0208 524 9064 . Ask for Ian .

 

Thanks buddy! I will deffo give him a call as that is on my doorstep as im in Waltham Cross! And for £45 definitely cant complain. Has he set up your car?

Who shall I say recommended me?

 

that's a coincidence...I live in the cross as well..
set mine up myself.. fitted coilovers a couple of years ago

 

Really I'm in lodge crescent. You?

You still didn't give me your name so I can say you recommended me.

 

You have a PM..

 

Pretty pointless going for 4-wheel alignment if it's still lowered as much as it is........

Whatever the cost.