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LOL I know where you are coming from, but if i dont fit both turbos at some point, i know i will always be wondering what the other would have been like. I figure that i'll start with the hybrid, then when i want more power, i'll fit the 18g :-)
What sort of increase are you expecting? Any specific reason for new fuel rails, FPR etc?
I'm not too bothered about total power, i'm really interested in torque (especially low down torque) and how it drives as a daily driver.
Because i do heavy traffic driving in the morning, i thought i would wrap the downpipe, ceramic coat the hotside of the turbo, and put some thermal inlet spacers in. I know a smaller turbo will generate more heat than a larger turbo, so thought i'd practice caution.
The roads are mainly clear on the way home from work, and are always fun :-)
While the intlet was off to fit the air pump delete, it made sense to do it all in one go. I came across a bargain for the fuel rails, lines and FPR, and I know fuel rails help protect all cylinders, i think cylinder 3 in particular can over heat because of not enough fuel acting as a lubricant or to cool it.
So the fuel rail lines and FPR are there more for protection than power, and i thought why not, since i got such a good deal on the bits.
Last edited by Reshard1977; Nov 24, 2015 at 11:06 AM.
I'm not too bothered about total power, i'm really interested in torque (especially low down torque) and how it drives as a daily driver.
Because i do heavy traffic driving in the morning, i thought i would wrap the downpipe, ceramic coat the hotside of the turbo, and put some thermal inlet spacers in. I know a smaller turbo will generate more heat than a larger turbo, so thought i'd practice caution.
The roads are mainly clear on the way home from work, and are always fun :-)
While the intlet was off to fit the air pump delete, it made sense to do it all in one go. I came across a bargain for the fuel rails, lines and FPR, and I know fuel rails help protect all cylinders, i think cylinder 3 in particular can over heat because of not enough fuel acting as a lubricant or to cool it.
So the fuel rail lines and FPR are there more for protection than power, and i thought why not, since i got such a good deal on the bits.
I suppose it's more so because of the 2.5 block that your adding a few safety measures as such? I've not had my wagon long so it's interesting understanding what can be done and for what reasons. I also steered clear of the 2.5 because of the bad reputation but I'm sure it's fine if you don't go crazy.
Also interested to see what figures you come back with, I'll keep an eye on the thread.
Last edited by Matt_182; Nov 24, 2015 at 03:16 PM.
I suppose it's more so because of the 2.5 block that your adding a few safety measures as such? I've not had my wagon long so it's interesting understanding what can be done and for what reasons. I also steered clear of the 2.5 because of the bad reputation but I'm sure it's fine if you don't go crazy.
Also interested to see what figures you come back with, I'll keep an eye on the
Well, i would have done the same for a 2.0, because i drive in stop start peak time traffic in the mornings. I know the Ecu will compensate and add more fuel to protect the engine. But, i just wanted to do what i could to keep everything nice and safe. It can go quite quickly from stop start to a quick escape and getting up to speed on the journey to work. Which is not recommended for our cars.
I was REALLY worried about 2.5 engine, so the first thing i did was have a compression test, which came back measure 140 psi (if i remember correctly) which is VERY good. So i know it was OK to mod. From what i can see its boost pressure that kills the ringland/2.5 engines. I've been told that 1.2 bar is safe pressure to run, but others seem to be running 1.3 to 1.35 without problems. But i'm going to keep the boost down, and with the other bits i've done, i'm hoping to enjoy my car for years without having to worry about the engine :-) I could be a little over cautious, but i dont mind, since i got all the bits for cheap, and have a REALLY good mobile mechanic. Being mobile, his rates are very reasonable.
I'll post the figures when i get them, but as long as i have lots of torque to get me going quicker than everyone else at the lights, i'll be very happy :-)
Last edited by Reshard1977; Nov 24, 2015 at 03:11 PM.
Where did you find the cluster, I really need one! Also what size gauges does it take?
Hello mate, someone on a Facebook Subaru parts group was selling it :-) got it at a good price!
A company called ATI in the USA makes them, which is why they are are all designed for left hand drive cars, but do fit RHD cars. Its quite expensive if you buy it direct from ATI though!
Hello mate, someone on a Facebook Subaru parts group was selling it :-) got it at a good price!
A company called ATI in the USA makes them, which is why they are are all designed for left hand drive cars, but do fit RHD cars. Its quite expensive if you buy it direct from ATI though!
Big money from ATI! I'll keep my eyes open for one but I really need one now haha
I agree, the Zircotec didnt come out as clean as i would have liked. Its excelent around the sides, but It looks like they had some sort of over spray over the fins. To make it worse, the mechanic thought he would do me a favour and surprise me with the STI logo across the fins.
I was actually after more of an OEM look and planned to pray it silver. Might try and sort the logo out later, and spray the vertical bars silver.
