alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Costing me £450 as new parts have to be fabricated, Subaru cannot supply them and no-one imports them.

Rumour has it that RCM imported some from somewhere, but two of us on their list for contact were NOT contacted, so if they did.......

Dunno where they got any from, if they did, as dealers have told me they aren't available.

It's round the rear jacking point...it got an advisory last year. I had thought of bodging it with Belzona and painting, but decided to do it properly.

Only a couple of the local body shops, and neither of them were the nationals, would quote for the work.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

This is what was left of the rear sills, the rest crumbled away:



Caused by jacking in the wrong place, (new tyres etc ) and getting the sill seam crushed, which breaks it and the paint, leading to corrosion.

Last year I got an advisory.

Ross, who did the work, said that it would have been a fail if the MoT tester had removed the side skirts

Big holes.

Anyway, all done now, MoT on Monday.

flatfoured

Have they fabricated and replaced the full panel from front to back? Really is a dirty horrible job and for the time needed isn't a really bad price

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

About half way. They inspected the rest and it's sound.

New sills filled with Waxoyl and painted, then sealed.

f1_fan

iTrader: (9)

I don't think it is caused just by incorrect jacking Jeff. My mate's was really bad like yours, but being a garage owner he is the only person who has ever jacked the car and he always did it right. He reckoned it was part and parcel of the inner rear arch issue with moisture collection and improper sealing of the inner sills at manufacture.

Matt&Natasha

Think I may of got a bargain, mine failed mot last week on all four jacking points being corroded, the garage fabricated and welded the whole sill front to back, and undersealed it all, including front ball joint replacement which was an mot fail, for £475.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

One sill? Mine was for both.

I've got to find another £375 for the rear arch n/s and bootlid/spolier refurb.

Matt&Natasha

no mine was for both sills, all four jacking points were crushed and corroded, when the chap at the garage started poking about to get a good bit of metal to weld to to reinstate them, he found it would be easier to just replace the whole sill on both sides.

Had my arches done last year, well worth it, got a clean bill of health on all the bodywork now, so hopefully that's the scary stuff done for a few years, and can now concentrate on having fun, and maybe a few mods along the way.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Good price.

I've had one wheelarch done about 3 years back, NOT by the same guy, it's showing again

Going to ask the new guy to take a look.

Matt&Natasha

I think my arches were just under 800 if I remember rightly, done over a year ago, and no signs of any problems inside or out. I did get both rear panels repainted for that though.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Ah...mine was one side only, that was beginning to show quite badly, cost me £150, whole panel painted, inc petrol cap.

You get what you pay for, I suppose.

flatfoured

I'd have charged 150 a side to cut out , then fabricate a new sill to look factory, so both sides 300, then 150 to prep prime and paint So 450 isn't a bad prices at all, where as just to patch in and underseal your probably looking at 50 a patch.

Price will be completely dependant on wether it looks welded or looks factory.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

It looks pretty good to me, I've been flat on my back looking under it and can't see any joins etc.

I'll photograph the rear arch and bootlid/spoiler before and after.
But I need money for work on the French property now, so it won't be getting done until September at the earliest.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I'd go with this. Of course a damaged jacking point by using a standard trolley jack or axle stands without a proper sill adapter will just make things worse if the damaged areas isn't greased immediately afterwards (Grease seems to be the cheapest and best substance to help against water ingress into joints and sheet-metal seams - modern waxoyl doesn't seem to work like it used to).

Living near the coast , parking the car outside and using it in winter without washing off the salt are the three main curlprits for most cars IMHO.

My scooby only went downhill after I sold it....I garaged throughout its ownership...the guy I sold it to didn't....

Funnily enough, the front wings on my Golf have gone....whilst I knew they were a issue (its affects all MKV golfs of that batch) and there was a sign of corrosion permeating from inside out. It remained stable for years...until I lost use of my garage and was also too busy to wash the road salt from round the arches and grease the arch lips. Within 12months (one winter) I have scabby arches.

Make that of what you will; Rust is inevitable, but you can delay it.

Doesn't bother me as I'll just buy some new wings (bolt-on) - rectifying the existing ones will be a futile task.

Repairing existing rust will often show through after a few years as the original zinc coatings have been lost. The only way to get factory-like corrosion resistance is a to re-dip the entire shell.....as anywhere thats welded will be mild steel and is very prone to corrosion regardless of what you spray on top of it. This is why my jag is never allowed to get wet...it had £6K of bodywork done on it - its only lasted as long as it has because its not allowed to get wet - I don't even wash it with water if I can avoid it. Even then there are issues due to the humidity of the garage its stored in and also I negated to realise that a cotton car cover is hygroscopic!!

P1power

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a number an location for where you had it done mate? In the same boat

P1power

iTrader: (1)

Same for you pal.. Could you give me a number an location for where you had it done as in the same boat as you guys.

Cheers

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Mine was done at a place near Scunthorpe, actually called Winterton.

http://www.winterton2022.org.uk/busi...ident-repairs/

Bloke's called Ross Baskott.

Matt&Natasha

My arches were done by a chap called Jody who works for a company called Hylton Gott, just out side Downham Market in Norfolk, he is a very good body work chap, has some nice rally cars in the shop too. The cills were done by a company called Leigh Clark in Downham Market, Leigh is very good, very fair, and will tell you exactly what needs doing, and what he has done, even so far as to show me pics of the work he had taken during to demonstrate whats gone on.

serpico

You probably already aware but VW will now honour their corrosion warranty & rectify the rust with new wings if the car hasn't been painted before in them areas.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

I remember removing the side skirts from my white STI 3 for a general check and found this.......



Had all the rot cut out and replaced with fresh metal, it was pretty severe to be honest. Seems a common problem on classic now unfortunately.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Car is over ten years old, so no they won't. And secondly their body shops quality of workmanship is atrocious... I'm lucky to have a booth and someone who won't do a rush job, yes it'll cost me, but I will have a perfect paint job rather than blotchy pigment and Orange peal.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Talking of orange peel.........

I was working near a VW main dealer yesterday so popped in for a nosey around a golf R. I couldn't believe how poor the paint finish was. The orange peel was clearly visible from a distance, I was actually shocked at how bad it looked to be honest.