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Changed radiator hose - car overheating HELP!

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Old 23 October 2014, 08:56 PM
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Norman Dog
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Question Changed radiator hose - car overheating HELP!

Swapped top radiator hose due to leak, now car overheating and not blowing warm air, bottom hoses getting red hot top hoses (near intercooler) and filler tank luke warm.

Topped up with water after fitting hoses, replaced radiator car, turned heaters on full then fired her up.

Should I have left the radiator cap off when I started the engine???

Suspect airlock, how do you bleed system?
Old 23 October 2014, 09:14 PM
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MattyB1983
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Originally Posted by Norman Dog
Swapped top radiator hose due to leak, now car overheating and not blowing warm air, bottom hoses getting red hot top hoses (near intercooler) and filler tank luke warm.

Topped up with water after fitting hoses, replaced radiator car, turned heaters on full then fired her up.

Should I have left the radiator cap off when I started the engine???

Suspect airlock, how do you bleed system?

Drain the system again.
Remove turbo coolant hose at the header tank.
Pour coolant down that pipe (towards the turbo) until the header tank is full.
Replace hose onto header tank.
Leave cap off, turn heaters to hot, start car.
Allow to run for a few minutes, top up if required and then replace cap.
Done.
Old 23 October 2014, 09:22 PM
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Norman Dog
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Is it the top right hand hose on the header tank?
Old 23 October 2014, 09:27 PM
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peter zippy reid
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One going down towards turbo
Old 23 October 2014, 09:28 PM
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ditchmyster
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Yes, the thickest of the three.

Done it today, there is a drain plug on the bottom left of the rad as you look at it from the front, best to get the bottom hose off too, on the engine side though as rad side can be a pita.

7 litres mixed at 50/50 should see the job done.
Old 23 October 2014, 09:29 PM
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Norman Dog
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Thanks gents, knew I'd made a fcucking schoolboy error there.
Old 23 October 2014, 09:35 PM
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<<<@!1!@>>>

Though the drain plug was on the bottom somewhere?

Was looking at this video around the 1:30 mark.

Old 23 October 2014, 09:39 PM
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ditchmyster
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I'd also add to what matty said that I left the rad cap off until the rad was full so as to aid the air getting out of the system, then replace cap and carry on filling, it wont fill the tank as its higher than the turbo, once the pipe won't take any more top the tank up, put the lid on, start engine, heater on full bore, hot. I let it pressurise the system for a couple of mins, then take the cap off and top up, this way there will be a little pressure as you let the cap off which is just the last bit of air getting out. then go for a 5 min drive and watch the gauge rise. once up to temp jobs a good un and no bubbling heater.
Old 23 October 2014, 09:42 PM
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ditchmyster
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Mine is a new age WRX with the plastic sided rad, bottom left you will see a tap with a spout coming off, few turns and out comes the wet stuff.
Old 23 October 2014, 09:49 PM
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Video is wrong, you'll get trapped air if you fill from the tank, turbo hose is the way to go.
Old 23 October 2014, 09:55 PM
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Norman Dog
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Originally Posted by ditchmyster
Mine is a new age WRX with the plastic sided rad, bottom left you will see a tap with a spout coming off, few turns and out comes the wet stuff.
Mines a 2.5 Hawk, wonder if it's different?

Will check tomorrow and hopefully sort her out.

Thanks again guys.
Old 23 October 2014, 10:28 PM
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Just pull the bottom rad hose off to drain it fella.
Old 23 October 2014, 11:42 PM
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rb5 stu
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I have filled mine twice now through the cap and never had any problems with air locks.
Old 24 October 2014, 08:45 AM
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alcazar
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Very lucky then.

I've lost count of those who have airlocked the system.
Old 24 October 2014, 04:05 PM
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Norman Dog
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Due to some good advice on here and a tenner to the local mobile mechanic, everything now running sweet.
Old 24 October 2014, 04:25 PM
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