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Old 02 March 2015, 08:50 PM
  #61  
Shaun
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TEST 2 - Tuning Box - Dyno
This specific tuning box requires interaction with three sensors. MAP, boost and CAM sensor. Via these sensors it would be technically possible (depending on car and tuning box) to adjust boost, ignition and possibly fueling (if the ECU is Manifold Absolute Pressure based (speed density being used) rather than Mass Air Flow based for airflow calculations).

As already highlighted previously, tuning boxes can be quickly fitted - 15 mins will see the job done. All you need is the ability to read some very simple instructions. You won’t even need to get your hands dirty!

So… can 15mins pulling some connectors apart and reconnecting with the tuning box in place, really yield any positive results? Let’s find out.



Summary of Spec
MY14 A45 AMG
Litchfield Tuning Box
Fuel - VPower Nitro (99 oct)

TEST 2 figure achieved was 406.4bhp & 404.8lbft @ the flywheel
Test 2 +29.9bhp +70lbft (peak) over Baseline
Test 2 +8% bhp +21% lbft (peak) over Baseline

This is where this all gets really interesting and we look into what this graph really informs us of.

With the tuning box connected we have seen some good gains…. with the eye opening part being around the torque increases, which are pretty awesome in reality. If you look at the torque curve you see it still retains that “table top” look of the standard set-up (albeit slightly falling away past 5k, but still in excess of the standard torque levels even past 6k), which should equate to a very strong increase on the road, in respect of acceleration.

At this point we need to move away from peak figures in isolation….. they only tell part of the story.

Based on these peak figures attained, I appear to be underpowered (although the torque gains are pretty huge) compared to other tuning box “graphs”. Let’s delve a bit deeper….. and then see what these “numbers” mean in the real world - because that’s where it counts.

All runs on the dyno were DET free, which was also double checked on the road afterwards.

The maps that I have tested are the same ones that will be included as part of the final consumer product. Not maps that have been “cranked up” just for my benefit.

TEST 1 vs TEST 2


For the above graph I have literally overlaid one with another, so hence some of the blurring on over written text.

Now we can start to evaluate the increased power/torque difference across the whole of the rev range.

One thing you can quickly tell by looking at a power graph is potentially how “clean” the map is being seen by the ECU and how the engine is reacting. You may notice that the power curve with the tuning box is smooth, with no sudden dips in power. The slight dips you can see in the torque curve (on the tuning box run) follows the same kind of minor dips as the standard run, so in reality, nothing to worry about there.

What is clearly evident is the substantial increase in torque from 1800rpm, all the way through to 6k. From 3-5k we’re seeing in excess of over 75lbft in places…… that’s some serious torque increase in anyones book. As a side note, MAHA dynos have a reputation for under reading on torque - I actually prefer to think MAHA’s are just “more” accurate. We can also see far greater increases in power than the peak power figure increase suggests. Power is increased by over +70bhp in places. In fact the tuning box is delivering an increase in both power and torque all the way through the rev range.

This is why it’s REALLY important to look at the area below the lines, rather than peak figures in isolation.

If I’m being honest I was pretty shocked at the breadth of increases shown, for a 2ltr engine utilising “just” a tuning box.

For a road car, a wide torque band is king in my opinion. We’ll see how this actually translates to real world performance later on, but the dyno graph suggests that the increases in road performance are going to be substantial from this stage of tuning.

So….. what’s changed to enable this increase?

TEST 2 Boost


Unfortunately I’m unable to overlay the two boost graphs (before and after) as the scaling (for boost) of these two graphs is different (sorry - that was an oversight by me), but it’ sort of irrelevant. Since the boost is being read from the ECU, the tuning box is doing it’s “thing” between the ECU and sensors, which in essence means the ECU is seeing the same boost as before (when standard). There are very slight differences in the profile with the tuning box, but nothing that would ever relate to the real power increases clearly seen.
The boost plot with the tuning box is more or less the same “profile” as the standard run.

Although the graph does not show it (the only way I’ll know this for sure, is by logging boost another way - which I’ll come back and do), I don’t like to assume stuff without getting data, but I’d be very surprised if the tuning box is not increasing boost levels….. in fact I’d be amazed, so it’s probably safe to make the assumption that boost is being increased across the rev range.

TEST 2 Ignition Plot


There’s a similar thing going on with the ignition seen by the ECU, although it does appear that Ignition has been reduced by the ECU in places. I can’t be 100% sure what is going on as I need more logging facilities (to come in the future). It would be quite reasonable to expect ignition advance to be reduced, assuming that boost has increased. It’s always a game of finding the best mix of boost and ignition, to achieve the best mix of power and driveability. You’ll be amazed at the difference an ignition heavy map vs a boost heavy map, has on certain elements of driveability.

Whilst this next graph is quite hard to work out which line is associated to which test (1 or 2), if you refer back to the master graphs, you’ll be able to work it out. Here is an overlay between the two ignition plots:


TEST 2 AFR Plot
This is where we can now start to show some fuelling data, to determine how the ECU’s fuelling strategy is coping with the increase in boost and changes in ignition…… this is a very important area.

The A45 ECU utilises something called a “Closed Loop” strategy. Simplistically, this means this ECU can “self tune” itself, within a certain level of tolerance, for changes it see’s (via the various sensors) that require some adjustment. One of these areas could be fuelling requirements.

As previously mentioned, the A45 has a pseudo wideband lambda sensor just prior to the CAT. With this sensor, it enables the ECU to monitor the air/fuel ratio (AFR) of the exhaust gases. If you (for instance) introduce more air into the combustion chamber, without adding more fuel, you’ll end up with a leaner AFR. This could potentially mean you’ll not supplying enough fuel and you’ll experience DET (losing power) and possibly damage your engine. This is only one example for context.

This type of ECU functionality can work really well with an appropriately set-up tuning box. Which ultimately means that the ECU is still able to control key aspects.

Let’s see what the ECU is doing about the fuelling (we’ll jump straight to an overlaid graph).



As you can see from the two graphs overlaid, they are pretty much identical. The Closed Loop system on the A45 ECU has adapted well to the changes made, and the power that has been gained.

You can’t “safely” rely on the Closed Loop system indefinitely, without properly remapping the ECU tables, to account for further mods. How far we can safely go without accessing the ECU map directly, time will tell as I complete further tests. At this level of tune though, it looks absolutely fine with this specific tuning box/map.

Additionally, when we start properly tuning this car via the ECU, we’ll be modifying the downpipe to accept a proper wideband sensor that will be used whilst mapping. This will ensure we get precise AFR readings (to map to). You shouldn’t use the standard sensor already installed, for mapping, as the results won’t be accurate enough. If you remove the CAT from the exhaust, it’s possible to insert a wideband in the tailpipe, but having one located in the downpipe is best (closest to the turbo as possible).

Whilst all of this data is interesting, how does this all really relate to the real world…… on the tarmac.


TEST 2 - Tuning Box - Road
I appreciate this immediate next bit will be subjective, but don’t worry - we’ll be discussing some objective data in a short while.

With my experience of tuned 2ltr turbocharged engines, I’ve never previously really “felt” a major difference on the road after an initial Stage 1 remap. Yes, they felt quicker, but not night and day. The A45 was somewhat different.

I was in COMFORT mode setting on the gearbox in second gear and I dabbed the throttle. **** me that felt good! You might be rolling your eyes, but the get up and go was instant and strong….. even in COMFORT mode. It just felt awesome. I just started laughing to myself.

I then took the car down a twisty B road and banged it into MANUAL and gave it a workout. The engine performance really was night and day against the standard set-up. The mid-range was so much stronger now, and it just pulled so hard. Looking at the before and after graph, you can clearly see that extra torque from the get go…… that is what translated to the awesome shove I was feeling……. which kept going to the redline.

It’s probably worth me stating that I’ve only just stepped out of a 500bhp Subaru, and whilst the A45 is not as quick (you wouldn’t expect it to be), this A45 is now way more urgent lowdown and more driveable. For the first time I could actually feel that “shove”, that is normally associated with a tuned turbo car. But this “shove” was now instant….. not waiting for the turbo to come on song. It was there as soon as I hit the throttle….. it felt mega and exactly what you want for a road car. The standard set-up feels very linear and sedate by comparison.

It really did put a smile on my face and 100% backed up the new torque figures this car now has.

For a bit of fun (and because I have the data from the same make of Rolling Road), I thought I would overlay a graph from my previous Subaru STI, when it was part way through it’s project development, to see how the A45 in it’s current state of tune compares.

Japanese STI Impreza with the following mods:
2ltr OEM engine
Remapped ECU
VPower 99oct fuel
Development Billet wheel twinscroll turbo
Aftermarket Front Mount Intercooler
Aftermarket induction kit
800cc aftermarket injectors
Uprated fuel pump
Uprated boost controller

Peak figures of 425bhp/380lbft (at the time of this graph).

So, vs a standard A45 with just a tuning box, which one will have a better graph and may look like it’s going to be quicker on the road?



Please forgive the issue I had with the rpm scaling. The BHP and Torque scaling is 100% aligned, and if I managed to actually get the STI rpm scaling correct, it would make the A45 graph look even better!

Just look at how much more torque and power there is from 2k way past 5k. There is 180lbft of difference (in the A45’s favour) in places, from a graph on the STI that says it has more peak BHP!! I’m sorry to the Scooby boys, but even at this basic level of tune, on the road, the A45 looks pretty awesome. I’m going to get a slagging for this off my Subaru mates (sorry guys!).

If you couple this data with the fact that the A45 has an ultra quick DSG type gearbox, and with the Haldex system, is losing less power to the wheels than a Subaru transmission does….. not sure where the Impreza would be.

This again, is another reason why you should NEVER just look at peak figures!!

OK, so we’ve had a bit of fun with comparing data….. let’s get down to some black and white performance data, to see what the power graph of the tuned A45 really means!


TEST 2 - Tuning Box - VBOX Performance Results
Most of you are aware what other VBOX results for other A45 tuning boxes are achieving. Let’s see what this one does.

I haven’t collected many logs due to time and pretty poor weather conditions in the UK over the past couple of weeks. That’s the way it is, and whilst I expect these results to improve with better conditions, they currently provide some keen context.

It is very important that you appreciate the context of some of these results provided. I’d urge you not to take some of the figures without appreciating the context of the entire log. You’ll understand why as you read through this section.

Getting really **** about things (you must be starting to “get me” now), my car is on 19” wheels and has the full aero kit. This ultimately means it’s the worst configuration (out of the options list) to get the ultimate straight line performance figures available. You may only be talking 1/10th of a disadvantage, but it all adds up boys! Obviously the 18” and non-aero models are quicker! lol

One last thing is that the VBOX screen only displays times to 1/10th accuracy. You need to use the Racelogic Performance software to interrogate the logs, to ascertain absolute accuracy. If you don’t do this, you can find that certain information from the VBOX screen can be misleading. Another community member also pointed out recently, that using the “measure” function within the software is the truest statement of times. I have found this absolutely factual, and can result in actual times being up to .08s more accurate. Sounds like we’re splitting hairs here, but this can make a difference on the 10ths, when working out times between certain MPH ranges - so it is relevant as far as I’m concerned.

I’ve already released some information across the forums on times attained. However, I’ve had to recalculate all times based on me now using the “measure” function. This has increased some of the times by up to 0.1s. Just so you know.

None of this data includes any 1 foot roll-out, so this is accurate with nothing applied to make the figures look better than they really are.

Results without log file available
Unfortunately when I completed initial 0-60mph logs, it appears that the VBOX/memory card was not logging results. I had updated the firmware on the VBOX prior to these initial runs, and I don’t know whether this caused the problem. When I found this out, a simple reformat of the memory card resolved the logging issue - so just be aware when you do any firmware update, reformat your memory card at the same time.

I basically did two runs. The one in the day achieved a 0-60mph of 3.7s. Because I knew I was going to do another run later that evening, I never bothered taking a photo (idiot!).

That evening I completed another run and achieved a 3.8s to 60mph. It was 2degs ambient temperature, so the road surface didn’t provide perfect traction.



Results with log file available
I was presented (by chance) a 20 minute window between booked sessions, to run some tests at a closed facility. Unfortunately (yes, you’ve guessed it) conditions were not very good. It was cold and wet, but I had to make the most of it.

I effectively managed one semi decent pull, with the other ones, being totally trash….. traction was quite an issue and I was concentrating on getting the launch good, which never really happened. I was running out of time, so I did one last run, taking the A45 up to a 1/4m distance (wish I had done it up to and past 130mph now - you live and learn).

A word of warning. I would not suggest you complete launches under poor traction conditions. Traction was that bad during these tests that the centre display stated the 4Matic system was unavailable. This was after the front axle was tramping really bad upon one specific start, I then heard quite a bang, which would have been when the front must have bounced and the tyres snagged traction again. I did think I had bust something, but after a drive for 5mins and a couple of ignition resets, everything was back to normal. Phew!

On the run that I did with the best start I obtained (which was pretty awful), we saw the following:

0-60mph : 4.10s (lol)
0-100mph: 8.75s
60-100mph: 4.65s
¼ Mile: 12.35s @ 116.21mph

Considering the 0-60mph sprint time, the 0-100mph and ¼ Mile times are pretty impressive for this level of tuning. Read below for the context to support that statement (remember it’s all about context). The 60-100mph tells you the REAL performance potential here.

Remember a standard A45 can do the 60mph sprint in 4.2s and the 0-100mph is seen in 10s. That starts to put into context the kind of performance increases we’re really seeing here, once you remove any traction issues. So, if I can achieve a 8.75s to 100mph with a crap 4.1s to 60mph….. care to think what this car could achieve to 100mph with a decent start!?

0-117mph
Here is a the VBOX graph of the whole run:


0-60mph


You can see there were problems with traction, which is reflected in the 0-60 time of 4.10s. Not good at all (especially when 3.7s had already been achieved in better conditions).

The 60ft time for this run was 2.27s…… anyone who appreciates this for drag runs, will understand this is a pretty bad figure. Again, due to grip levels and not anything to do with lack of power. With the launch control on these A45’s, this should be much (and clearly has been for other runs I completed) quicker.

0-100mph


Even without a bad 0-60mph sprint this would have been a pretty decent time. With a bad 0-60mph sprint it makes this figure look even better.

1/4m


Now we know this isn’t going to be great, because of the rubbish launch and 0-60 time. Terminal speeds should tell us more though about how this car pulls through the gears.

Getting this sort of time with the 60ft (and 4.1 0-60 time!) it had, is pretty good to be honest. It’s got plenty of potential. I need to complete this all again under better conditions.

So we need to delve deeper into the figures and see how quick the car is post 30mph.

60-100mph


Now were talking. This is a quick time. In fact it’s very quick for the level of power this car is now running. This totally removes traction issues (in this instance) and starts to highlight the real performance that this car now has.

I have completed a number of data comparisons with a couple of other forum members who have other tuning boxes fitted, using data from upwards of 30mph. Suffice to say that (and it may be of no surprise since you’ve seen the 60-100mph time) that this tuning box appears to hold it’s own, very well indeed!

When all said and done we maybe splitting hairs here, and the biggest statement is really how quick these “Tuning Boxed” A45’s are in general, and will surely be in the future with further mods.

Conclusions
Well the use of a tuning box on these cars most certainly work. I’m converted and learnt something else new! The difference in performance is pretty outstanding, and really does bode well for future modifications as part of this project.

Considering this car only has a tuning box and nothing else, the bang for your buck and performance available is truly phenomenal.

One key thing here though is that you really do need to take everything into consideration when judging performance. Don’t use peak figures to make any kind of informed judgement, and make sure you look at all the information available. The key area will always be how the car performs on the road, but using information from accurate dynos and data logging, can ensure you’re heading in the right direction for any informed conclusions.

I’ll let you decide how good you think this tuning box performs. I’ll also let you decide whether you place reported high peak BHP figures, over and above real performance on the black stuff in the real world. We can all get hung up on power figures and 0-whatever times, but it’s thru & in-gear performance, and overall response/driveability that real matter for road cars.

News on the next stage of this project very soon guys!
Old 03 March 2015, 08:45 PM
  #62  
john banks
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I would really want to see fuel trims and knock retard from ECU datalog. Ideally EGT, injector times, and the fatigue with which these things waver with very hard track use or use at very high speeds. If the ECU datalog includes it, actual or modelled turbine speeds, and adaptations on the wastegate calculations required to achieve target boost.

I'd expect that just piggybacking the MAP and boost sensors would achieve similar, unless we know whether the position sensors are being manipulated or just read to get an RPM value. If using higher octane fuel, the ECU would appear not to be doing any retard except for a degree or two just around spool up.
Old 03 March 2015, 08:59 PM
  #63  
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Agreed John - all that will come once the ECU has been opened up to access. However, for this level of tune, the closed loop appears to be coping well.

I obviously never tried with normal SUL, so I would expect some additional retarding with that. I only ever use VPower tbh.

The box does have 6 additional trims on it. +3, Default & -3. This was on +3.

The power was not affected that much across them all..... mid range torque see's an increase though.
Old 03 March 2015, 09:57 PM
  #64  
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So in summary, you're not interested in BHP figures but its all you go on about, and are now even comparing the Scooby to the A45, and every other word is dyno.

In short you've bought a tuning box.
Old 03 March 2015, 10:36 PM
  #65  
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Carnut,
You really are a prize turkey gobbler at times.

For some like you that pours over reading the internet for facts, figures and details. If you actually took the time to read these types of project threads and grasped what they were about...... you might actually learn something useful.

Yeah you're right..... there is SIX matches of the word "dyno" on this page (which includes your own mention of it).

You do realise this was all about gaining a better understanding of how a tuning box works, and how the cars ECU is reacting and the engine performing.

In short I'm actually "doing it" rather than "reading about it" and making myself look a tit in the process (OK.. perhaps the last bit I can't shake off).
Old 03 March 2015, 11:23 PM
  #66  
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lol @ carnut and turkey gobbler. Impressive results so far Shaun, those 0-100 times cannot be ignored or sniffed at, that's almost supercar territory not superhatch performance, with a relatively basic tune!
Old 04 March 2015, 08:18 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by bioforger
lol @ carnut and turkey gobbler. Impressive results so far Shaun, those 0-100 times cannot be ignored or sniffed at, that's almost supercar territory not superhatch performance, with a relatively basic tune!
Agreed..... it will be interesting as to how it responds to further mods. Personally, I don't think it needs much more to be a "properly quick" road car.

Just think in the old days, you'd have had to change most of the key bits to get this level..... and it still wouldn't perform like this. Pretty awesome really, as it's still a 2ltr.
Old 04 March 2015, 08:41 AM
  #68  
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It does look like Merc have got themselves a proper little pocket rocket looking at those timings and figures!

The difference in torque between that and your Hawk is staggering at the same starting point, and I'm guessing the hawk didn't feel slow to you either so can see where the smiles come from

So A45 hey
Old 04 March 2015, 02:54 PM
  #69  
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Yes. I always thought the JDM Twinscroll set-up was/is pretty awesome 2ltr set-up. This set-up is even better, by quite a margin.
Old 04 March 2015, 04:44 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Carnut
So in summary, you're not interested in BHP figures but its all you go on about, and are now even comparing the Scooby to the A45, and every other word is dyno.

In short you've bought a tuning box.
At least he is trying stuff and not just posting others opinions on cars on here
Old 05 March 2015, 09:54 AM
  #71  
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Shaun you will never learn

Still hats off to you, your project threads are always as done in a methodical manner and very informative. I for one am very interested in the outcome as this is where I feel the new generation sports cars are heading being mainly german based, even though i'm a die hard jap car man myself.

Good Luck with this one.

Mel
Old 05 March 2015, 12:27 PM
  #72  
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Mel,
I did say to myself that I wouldn't mod this one..... I literally lasted a week.

You know me Mel - a leopard can't change it's spots.
Old 06 March 2015, 11:59 AM
  #73  
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Well at least your consistent

I'm also with the thinking its now time to move on from my Spec C. I've had the time to enjoy modding it and driving on some great tracks, but feel its time to look for something I can enjoy and cruise in now rather then all out driving experience the Spec C demands from a driver.

So its a bit of a case of now, do I go for a powerful german cruiser or go the GTR route where I can still enjoy the cruising aspect and some track fun from time to time.

we'll see...
Old 07 March 2015, 12:33 AM
  #74  
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Impressive performance as was your hawkeye but no shrinking violets both not easy on the eye, I considered the AMG but warming to the new Focus RS and Civic R the future is bright.
Old 07 March 2015, 12:23 PM
  #75  
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Right, it appears I'm delving into the next area a bit quicker than I'd previously thought.

Next up will be to fabricate an exhaust system and look at inlet changes, together with mapping the OEM ECU.

The "box" required to program the ECU is in hand, and a base map / configuration file is being developed.

Depending upon which elements get to a state to test first, will dictate which part will be shared first.

More news as soon as I have some.



Mel,
I undoubtedly would have previously upgraded to an R35, but unfortunately it wouldn't fit in my garage. In fact the A45 "only just" goes in.

Get an RS6 - awesome cars! Litchfield are currently tuning them up to 730/687.

Daviee,
I agree the "looks" are going to be marmite. Both the RS and R will undoubtedly be great performers. Be interesting to know which way you "swing" and how you get on.

Last edited by Shaun; 07 March 2015 at 12:27 PM.
Old 09 March 2015, 01:40 PM
  #76  
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I did think about the RS6 Shaun, but think the GTR is going to be the one for me. Plus for track use the RS6 is just a bit too heavy.

With all the money you have spent over the years, why didn't you just build a bigger garage!!
Old 09 March 2015, 08:02 PM
  #77  
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LOL

It has been mentioned to me by several people. When I turned round and said "You're joking - that will cost me 1000's!", they've immediately rolled their eyes at me.

That's my mans maths for you.

Be good to hear about your move when you make it Mel - you'll have to give me a passenger ride at some point.
Old 10 May 2015, 07:38 PM
  #78  
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Firstly apologies for the lack of updates, and secondly apologies for this specific update not being about any power enhancing modifications. I’m still planning on progressing with power based mods.

Functional interior and exterior mods
I’m not normally one for interior or exterior mods, but I think I have found a few items that not only look good, but also have a worthwhile function/purpose.

Front Stone Deflectors
Pretty much as soon as I bought my A45 a fellow community member started producing stone deflectors that sit at the rear of the front arches. This neat little product was to reduce the debris from the wheel that tends to pepper the lower front arches (rear of) and lower door sections. In my opinion this is a bit of a design fault by MB, but at least we have products like this that can alleviate the problem.

With my car being black, the damage to the lower portions of the arch and door panels is clearly evident….. I’m sure we’ve all seen it. If you haven’t noticed it, get down close and have a look….. you’ll soon see the rashing and probably start to cry that your new pride and joy is being abused on a daily basis!

These stone deflectors are cheap, well made and easy to fit. Whilst they don’t remove the problem entirely, they greatly reduce the issue.

If you look at the image below, you’ll see the white rashing evident on the lower panel. This was in place prior to the deflectors fitted, with the car only having around 2500 miles on the clock at the time. Imagine what it would look like after 25,000 miles!

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To fit the deflector you only need to remove the lower OEM trim fitments, which is done by pulling out the centre pin and then extracting the outer sleeve.

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You then clean up the facings on the outer arch, as you need to 3M tape the deflector in place. You then pop the trim fittings (in reverse) back in (with the deflector in place). Job done in about 15 mins.

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Aluminium Footrest
Something else that AMG should have sorted from the off, is the lack of a left footrest. If they go to the trouble of creating nice pedals, why not throw another couple of pound at an alloy footrest to stop the carpet version getting marked and worn over time?! Thankfully a company on eBay has come up with the answer….. an alloy footrest that looks exactly as you’d expect an OEM product to look like!

This specific footrest is crafted out of alloy, with a rubber membrane protruding through the alloy (so looks the same as the OEM pedals). The footrest attaches in seconds, with a velcro back which sticks to the carpet already in place.

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Here it is fitted in place:
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Paddle Shift Extenders
These are without doubt a bit “marmite”. However, I’ve always felt that a lot of OEM shifters are ergonomically lacking…. mostly because they are too small and feel quite cheap. With the A45 set-up this is made even worse, by the fact that the paddles are part of the wheel, so end up being quite awkward to locate when on lock. I’d go as far to say that they are pretty useless on lock!

Now, the A45 can be spec’d with the Performance Wheel option, that has the larger paddles. To be honest they don’t actually look that much bigger to me. Luckily there are options out there to buy OEM paddle extenders. I’m not sure if any solutions are available to fit the larger OEM paddles, as the ones I have seen are for the smaller “normal” OEM paddles only.

I took the plunge and bought some from a company in China, which ended up costing me around £160 inc shipping and import taxes. Not specifically cheap for a bit of alloy, but getting on for half the price of some other versions available. You can buy a multitude of colours….. I went for the least “chav” looking ones, black.

Being from China you tend to think the quality may not be up to much, so let’s see how these turn out.

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Not that you can probably tell from the pictures, but these paddles are of a very good quality.

Unfortunately, which I think is not great, the paddles did not come with any form of fixing tape. The paddles need to be stuck on to the back of the original paddles. I ended up getting some 3M VHB fixing tape (0.6mm), which is very very good stuff for this kind of thing. It costs a couple of pound off eBay, so no great expense.

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The fitment of these is very straight forward as long as you take your time. Clean the faces you’re going to be fitting on to (both OEM paddles and extenders), and take your time fitting the tape to the extenders.

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Here they are all fitted up:
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Personally I think they look pretty smart, especially in black. However, I was more interested in how they feel.

Instantly I felt a difference with them being on. I like the fact that the back of the OEM paddle is now padded out with the extender in place. They feel much better than the OEM setup, as I always felt the OEM paddles felt a bit awkward to use and not very ergonomic (perhaps that’s down to my gangly fingers). The extra thickness the extenders provide, really does make the use of the paddles better for me. So even without taking advantage of the top and bottom extenders, the paddles already felt a lot better.

Taking the car out it was almost like I had a different set-up. The paddles felt much more mechanical, rather than plastic and numb (and cheap if I’m being honest). The added area that you can now utilise really does make the whole paddle setup so much more ergonomic….. way more than I had thought it would. You have a lot more surface area to press, which provides a lot more flexibility as to where your hands can be. The paddles should have been more like this from standard.

Personally I think they’re a great upgrade, that actually provide very good benefits.

Fuel consumption
Whilst I appreciate we don't buy these types of cars to scrimp on fuel, it continues to amaze me how fuel efficient the set-up can be.

I recently went to Birmingham which from me means I use the M1/M6 route into Brum, as the majority of the journey travelled. The M6 is pretty crap, being quite stop start around the city.

None of these figures were just off the motorway portions…. these were door to door.

This is what the car achieved on the way over, although traffic was quite bad so not high speed really:
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This was once I got back home. With the return journey being much freer of traffic:
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I then took a drive down to London last bank holiday. London is just over 70 miles from my door, so majority is motorway. This time though we went on a bit of a drive around / tour. First heading for Knightsbridge and then did the full tour of the city. We drove for over 30 miles off motorway and around the city. Proper town (city) driving.

I reset everything as soon as I left the house and this is what it was when I returned home:
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I honestly never adjusted my driving to achieve good MPG (although the majority of the time was spent in C mode). I just drove sensibly. Going through the tunnels around London was pretty epic… manual mode, nail it!

Taking it easy and driving normally, I still can't believe how economical these cars can be.

ODB Data Logging
Not had any chance to play with this, but something I’ll go into greater detail soon.

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Old 11 August 2015, 09:23 PM
  #79  
Shaun
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Well it's been some time since any updates, so I thought I would divulge what recent performance results I've gained with the current tuning set-up. Even if they were not what I was really hoping for, but that's life and I'd rather be up front about what the car does..... good or bad.

First off though I managed to put the A45 on a weighbridge last week, being curious as to how much the car actually weighs in at. The book figures are 1555kgs..... however, the published kerb weights will certainly be for the standard specification of car. So what do you think mine weighs in at with the following options:

19" wheels
Aero pack
Black paint (lol - that must weigh extra)
High beam assist (not sure that weighs much)
Performance exhaust (does this weigh less, as it uses only one resonator?)
Auto dimming mirrors (fractional weight surely)
Electric mirrors (electrical gubbins)
Heated seats
Intelligent Light System (come on - you serious)
Panoramic roof (this is the single biggest concern!)

On the weighbridge it came in at 1570kgs...... which you probably think that isn't bad. That's until you realise that was WITHOUT me sat in it, and the manufacturers 1555kg kerb weight INCLUDES 75kgs for a driver!!! Doesn't look so good now does it.

So when all said and done, the actual comparative kerb weight of my "fatty" is actually 1570kgs+75kgs which equals 1645kgs. Not great news.

Which will surely have an element of impact on the next bit. Recorded times down a proper Drag Strip!

Prior to the next phase of mods that I'll be completing, I thought it would be a good idea to rip the car down the strip to gauge a performance baseline, so I shot off to Santa Pod recently.

I was down Santa Pod pretty early doors and one of the first in the fire up lane (my car was given No.1 lol). I don't really like running early on, especially when no events were the previous day. You tend to find the start line will be a tad "waxy" until some rubber goes down and the track heat starts to build up a bit.

First run 12.48 @ 109.65mph
Mmmm... that wasn't a great run with traction issues at the start. The biggest issue was the gear shifts though. An early gear short shifted and I felt the car lose some major forward momentum (almost feeling like it bogged down) and then another gear hung on the upshift. I know an element of the time was down to the poor traction at the start, but it was certainly being hampered more by the Sports Mode gear shifting.

The gear shifting issues is something I have noticed on the road, and when looking at my VBOX logs you can see where speed flatlines for a time and acceleration G's fall off.

I knew on the run this was a problem as I was fixated on the rev counter, so you could physically see the box issues watching the revs. These issues are not uncommon in Sports Mode for the box, and is something I never have when in manual.

Second run 12.36 @ 110.15mph
Ever so slightly better start (tyres were warmer), but still had the same overall shift issues.

I then pulled over and took a break for a while, and decided to drop my tyre pressures to get better traction off the start. I knew if I couldn't get a clean shift run in, I was peeing in the rain anyway, but I just thought I would give it another run.

Third run 12.25 @ 109.38mph
Felt better off the line that one, but probably had, what felt like, the biggest shifting issues.

At this point I decided to stop, as the shift issues were not going to fix themselves.

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Whilst I was disappointed with what I ended up with, the positive to take from it was that in reality the final timing was hardly a total embarrassment. If you consider that my terminal speeds were some 4-5mph down on where they should have been, shifting issues sorted, I would hope for quite an improvement in my opinion. But.... it is what it is. All in all taking everything into consideration, it's not bad for just a tuning box. Then if you consider the weight of the car as well..... it's respectable to be honest.

Car will be having the TCU updates next month for sure (which have never been updated since the build in August 2014). Hopefully this will sort the shifting issue out.

Hopefully when I get down the strip next time, I'll have different mods and will be hopefully reducing my times. I need to get in the 11's!
Old 01 September 2015, 09:06 PM
  #80  
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Stage 2 Development
Well…. it’s been a long time coming, but I have now finally been able to make the move to Stage 2 tune testing on my A45.

The delays in getting to this stage have been felt by all involved, but to be fair to Litchfield’s, they did not want to put anything on my car for overall testing, until they were happy at a base level with what could be offered. The key element of this was around the ECU mapping side of things, which they have been working on for well over three months (along with everything else they have been working on!), where originally they were struggling to gain any real peak power advancements (in overall dyno figures) over their tuning box, for this level of tune. They have found this to be the case for other marques, with the M3/M4 showing similar issues…… until they managed to really get stuck into the ECU. More time delving into the ECU on the A45 has paid dividends, which has ultimately enabled me to get my car moved to Stage 2. I should learn to be more patient.

Anyway….. on to the good stuff.

Sticking with the approach I have taken to date, we agreed to complete as much “staged” mod testing as we feasibly could, based upon the time we had. Effectively this was going to be a day to do as much testing and set-up on my car as possible…… it was a very very long day (as you’ll notice by some of the times on the dyno graphs!)

So what did I test?

Test 1: Tuning Box + Induction Kit
Test 2: Tuning Box + Induction Kit + Decat Downpipe
Test 3: ECU Remap + Induction Kit + Decat Downpipe

Induction Kit
I’ve been some what sceptical of the gains that are generally touted about induction kit performance gains, having tested a fair bit in this area with previous car projects. In my experience you only really see a gain on the inlet side, when you start to alter turbos, going bigger which require more air coming in. Since we’re staying with the OEM turbo for now, it was difficult to see where any gains could be seen by changing the induction side of things. Of course this mindset does change somewhat when you actually look at the OEM inlet closer.

Unfortunately I didn’t take any pictures of the OEM induction kit, which is a paper cylinder that attaches to a collar on the inside of the airbox. The thing you notice straight away is the internal diameter of the collar, which in effect looks like it’s restricting air from the filter to the corrugated section attached to the turbo compressor cover. It’s a much smaller diameter base on the OEM filter, which effectively matches the restrictive inner diameter of the collar. What this induction kit aims to do is open up the air filter base to around 4.5” and provide a straight through/unrestricted path to the corrugated section. Theoretically this provides a larger volume of air at an increased pressure.

I’m of the understanding that the filter base and inner collar diameter used on this kit, is the largest currently available, running to 4.5”s. I can’t substantiate that, but thought the size maybe worth you knowing.

CNC’d machined out of a solid alloy block, the collar looks very nice….. and it’s internal diameter is clearly very big!

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Fitting takes 10 mins. You remove the OEM filter and the existing plastic collar, which is attached with a couple of screws. You fit the new collar and K&N cylinder filter. Job done!

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Here’s the corrugated inlet pipe I referred to previously…… this I suspect is disrupting airflow and along with the OEM collar and filter, is adding to air disruption but also all in all is helping to keep things a touch quieter on the induction roar. I really wouldn’t mind removing this inlet pipe and bashing on some silicon pipework, to stop any air disruption. Another test for another day.

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All fitted back into the engine bay.

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Decat Downpipe
Yes, this has no cat and no, it won’t pass an MOT. With that sorted, let’s move on. ;-)

I said some time ago when I first looked under the A45, that the OEM exhaust system is not that restrictive. The OEM cat is huge, so surely provides good airflow, especially what we know these cars can make on the 100% OEM exhaust and Tuning Box. The rest of the system has some restriction points, but nothing (visually) of any major importance in my opinion. With that said, making the gas flow as unrestricted as possible, has to help with decreasing back pressure, which will surely help overall airflow through the engine to aid response and spool. Another positive side effect of this is the lowering of exhaust gas temps. Theoretically this is all better for the setup, especially when you’re looking to extract peak performance at any given point. On top of all of this is the addition of more noise. Some will want this and some won’t.

Remember for these tests we’ve only looked at the downpipe. We’ve kept the rest of the system OEM, which is the mid pipe and backend of the system (although a full system is available if you want the full monty), including the OEM rear resonator (the system fitted to this car is the AMG Performance Exhaust, so only one resonator instead of two) and OEM rear backbox.

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Perhaps I’m a bit of a nerd, but I love to see well crafted and welded pipework. This downpipe is no exception. Very neatly built, sporting a 3.5” diameter which mates perfectly to the exhaust housing and OEM midpipe.

If I’m being over critical and had thought about it more, I would have asked to see the downpipe either ceramic coated or heat wrapped (both of which could have been done for me). There are a number of benefits to this. Firstly this retains heat in the downpipe, to aid gas flow speed. Secondly it reduces under bonnet temps. I’ll get this wrapped in the near future.

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ECU Remap
This is undoubtedly the key element for this development phase and where most of the time has been spent.

The A45 uses the Bosch MED 17.7.x ECU family…… without going into a massive amount of detail, this ECU is one very powerful ****. The amount of control it can have over how the engine performs is pretty mind blowing. The art of making the car “sing”, utilising/modifying the appropriate calibrations (there are well over 100,000 of these!) and ensuring you’re not hitting the protection tables (ultimately resulting in power being pulled down), is where the time and effort is needed. This is a totally different level of ECU than I have seen, coming from the Subaru marque - which in comparison really is “old skool”.

As well as “pure power” related calibrations, there are also a number of areas that can be accessed/adjusted. For instance exhaust valve opening, throttle maps, rev limits, “pops and bangs”, speed limiters...... the list goes on.

It goes without saying that even from a pure technical and in essence, logical standpoint, a properly mapped ECU should be overall, far better than a tuning box (convenience to one side). Obviously were going to find out by how much, which isn’t all to do with a dyno comparison. I’ll go into this further on.

One of the downsides of mapping the MED 17.7.2 is the fact that currently, the only way of doing this is via a method known as BDM. The process to achieve this is commonly referred to as a “bench tune”, which effectively means the ECU is pulled out of the car and programmed. This also makes tuning a bit of a time consuming effort, assuming you need to alter and test different calibration adjustments. It means you program the ECU (out of the car); refit; log on road/dyno; pull ECU out and make adjustments and refit/log again - repeat until you get bored!

Unfortunately OBD programming access is not currently available.

If I’m being honest I was very surprised how many areas on this custom map had been adjusted over the OEM map. I was guided through many of the changes (I love to know the detail of this stuff - helps my knowledge improve). There were many areas that have been adjusted to increase safety as part of the correction/protection strategies available in the ECU. It’s not all about cranking up the boost and ignition, as you need to work with the protection strategies - not against them. The ethos behind the tune after copious amounts of road logging and adjustments, has been to ensure everything is safe and the engine and ancillaries are happy…….. especially under high engine loads.

Litchfields have developed a set of their own basemaps, dependant on ECU code version and overall level of tune.

So how is the programming done - put simply the ECU needs to be taken apart and the programming box is connected to the main PCB and also to pins on the ECU loom connector. Programming box is connected to PC/Laptop via USB, and programming software is used to write the new map file to the ECU - direct.

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A clone of the current map on the ECU can be taken, so this is what was done to mine. This is useful if you should get any problems, where you need to revert back to the OEM map. It is my understanding that this boot method of remapping is undetectable if you had the OEM map put back on. I doubt I have to explain why you may wish to do that!

So that’s an overview of what mods were being done…… let’s get on to some dyno testing.

TEST 1 - Tuning Box and Induction Kit (comparison with Stage 1 Tuning Box)
Whilst this (retaining the tuning box) wasn’t really what this was about, I wanted to see what differences the more basic mods made.

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Summary of Spec
MY14 A45 AMG
Litchfield Tuning Box
Litchfield Induction Kit
Fuel - Tesco Momentum (99 oct)

TEST 1 figure achieved was 421.8bhp & 420.1lbft @ the flywheel
Comparing this against what was achieved with the Stage 1 tuning box (which is the comparison the graph above shows), we saw the following:
+15.4bhp +15.3lbft (peak) over Stage 1 Tuning Box
+3.7% bhp +3.7% (peak) over Stage 1 Tuning Box

That’s a pretty impressive result for a very simple and relatively cheap bolt on mod. Curve is nice and smooth as well. What impressed me personally were the gains across the whole of the curve. Sometimes you see a gain in peak torque and peak power with induction kits, but this kit provided a consistent gain throughout the rev range from 3k onwards.

Whilst it isn’t loud by any stretch, you do get a slight increase in induction noise, which is quite nice.

All in all I was suitably impressed.


TEST 2 - Tuning Box, Induction Kit and Decat Downpipe
Unfortunately I dropped a clanger here, as I never took the graph away with me. I will get it as soon as I can and insert the graph in here.

However, being totally upfront, we saw no great gains with the downpipe fitted, either in torque or BHP. I never road tested at this stage, but I would have expected to notice a decrease in turbo spool time on the road and a sharper throttle response. That would appear to be a logical assumption based upon the reduction in back pressure. It’s not always about dyno figures when adding mods, so you do need to take everything into account.

One thing that was clear though was the noise increase…… we’ll come on to that later, as part of the road test feedback with the ECU remap.

One element that was suggested, was that gains from the downpipe may only be realised with the combination of the ECU remap. Remember the Tuning Box is effectively only providing boost adjustments…… there are far more areas in the main ECU map that influence power results, which remain untouched until proper mapping takes place.


TEST 3 - ECU Remap, Induction Kit and Decat Downpipe - Dyno
It’s worth pointing out that Litchfield have not used my car to develop their basemaps. The whole process was much more involved, and they wanted to gain as much data and testing of their own, which took a fair few months. Luckily they have had access to several other A45’s in the UK and the continent, to enable them to develop their maps on several differently modified cars. They have also had access to a TTE460 equipped car…. but more on turbo mods in a future project update.

Litchfields latest Stage 2 calibrations were taken from their MY15 ECU code version, so the appropriate tables were copied over to my ECU. I suspect the map development process will be ongoing, although in reality Litchfields are happy they have developed a good set of maps now for their soon to be released A45 Stage 2 tuning packages.

The process was to flash my ECU with their latest calibrations, run on the dyno whilst logging, review logs / dyno graph and adjust if required for my own car and needs.

As some of you may have guessed I like to “get involved” in things, and because of the relationship I have with these guys, they did ask me what I wanted to try (if anything). One thing that they did make clear to me was that the map which was going to be applied to my car, had gone through extensive road logging and testing. The other cars that had been used to develop this specific custom map, had responded well and they were happy with all the data they had recorded.

So after the ECU was flashed (which takes minutes once the map file has been prepared), the car was strapped down on the dyno.

Now…. saying all of this, we did end up making several adjustments. I wanted to try a few things to see what effect it had on the curve shape, and they were willing to carry out these changes to see the results. After a good 2 hours (which included several map changes and ECU programming cycles) on the dyno we ended up with this:

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Summary of Spec
MY14 A45 AMG
Litchfield ECU calibration
Litchfield Induction Kit
Litchfield Decat Downpipe
Fuel - Tesco Momentum (99 oct)

TEST 3 figure achieved was 451bhp & 446.4lbft @ the flywheel
+29.2bhp +26.3lbft (peak) over Stage 2 Test 1
+6.9% bhp +6.2% (peak) over Stage 2 Test 1

Overall Stage 2 Test 3 comparison against Stage 1 Tuning Box
+44.6bhp +41.6lbft (peak)
+10.9% bhp +10.2% lbft (peak)

Overall Stage 2 Test 3 comparison against car as tested standard (baseline)
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+74.5bhp +111.6lbft (peak)
+19.7% bhp +33.3% lbft (peak)

TEST 3 - Comments
As you can see from the data above, you’ll probably appreciate I was quite flabbergasted to be honest. I never thought I’d up seeing those kinds of peak power figures from the OEM turbo. The peak flow rate of the turbo was maxed at the top end. I doubt there is anything else left in it, as load on the logs was dropping off quite dramatically.

A couple of things to note is that by the time we achieved this figure the whole car was getting very toasty. We had to pause between a number of the runs as logged charge temps were getting very high. However, nothing in the logs pointed to any issues in reality. Everything was doing as expected. You’ll also notice a dip between 5500-6500, which could have been temp related, so I’ll be running the car back up on the dyno later this month to see. If not, we’ll tweak the map slightly to smooth that area out a touch.

MAHA’s tend to really load the car up, as the runs are quite long compared to other dynos. This is good for logging purposes against high loads, but isn’t great for heat build up. To be honest the charge cooling system is doing a very fine job, even under this high load environment.

One thing that’s immediately noticeable is the way the car revs and still continues to make power. The rev limit has been raised to 7k, yet the power isn’t dropping off at the top end. That should feel very strong on the road.

Another point is perceived HP limit of the OEM turbo. It has been stated by others that the maximum HP capability of the OEM turbo is around 435hp at the flywheel. So you may look at my figures and say “Hold on - you’ve got 451bhp - must be BS then!”. You need to dig a bit deeper……. In the UK we predominantly use DIN power corrections (already talked about earlier on in this project thread). Whilst this dyno can cater for all current correction factors, I stated I would use DIN corrections for this project (apples and apples for us UK guys then). Manufacturers use ECE/EWG correction, which is around 3-4% less than DIN figures. The 435hp figure touted is based on ECE/EWG corrections. If you do the maths my DIN figures then relate to around 435-438hp at the flywheel, corrected to ECE/EWG correction…… bingo!

Whilst the graph below is a bit “busy”, it shows the differences between Stage 1, Stage 2 Test 1 and finally Stage 2 Test 3:

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As you can see with the above graph, we’ve seen good increases moving from Stage 1 to Stage 2 Test 3.

Due to the fact that we had started at 9am and it was now 9pm, we decided to call it a day for now. The only thing left to do was to drive the car on road and complete the last round of logging…… just to be sure.

TEST 3 - Road
You might find it weird for me to say this, but I really wasn’t expecting much over and above the Tuning Box, regardless of what the dyno numbers suggested. I’m a bit of a pessimist.

If you read my road testing comments during Stage 1, you’ll see I was pretty impressed with how the car went…….. again I can’t believe how much different the car is now with the Stage 2 mods. Something I really wasn’t expecting.

The first thing I immediately noticed was the noise. Christ this car is loud now! There was a lot of things I wasn’t expecting today and this was certainly one of them. Taking into account I still have the OEM AMG Performance Exhaust from the mid-pipe back, it sounds absolutely crazy. Sounds the same at idle, but on WOT…..

Then there’s the pops and bangs, both upshift (which is so much louder than the OEM sound) and even louder are the pops and bangs as you come off the throttle. This is perhaps the aural party piece on changes made within the ECU remap. If you let off the throttle at any point between 2-4k, it sounds like an old GRP B Rally Car! It’s repeated bangs and cracks, just like antilag in an audio sense. It REALLY IS loud…… perhaps too loud. I suspect the downpipe is helping here, but the ECU has been mapped to provide this sound, using different strategies around overrun fueling and ignition cut. It’s mental! Of course you can ask not to have this feature, and also you can quieten the car down by running in C mode….. if you really must. Aurally though you really wouldn’t need to change anything else on the exhaust side in my opinion. The great thing with these mods is that you get no exhaust drone on cruise.

So is this now all blow and no go?

I want to use words that accurately describe how this car drives now, without sounding like an utter over exaggerating idiot. The car simply drives night and day different to how it was with the tuning box….. it really is poles apart.

The throttle response is ultra sharp and responsive and the turbo feels like it spools immediately…. and the low down torque. Wow. It pulls so strong from low down now, it’s just totally different to drive. You keep your foot in and the engine just pulls and pulls and pulls to 7k. Without doubt, this now drives like no other 2ltr turbo charged car I have driven (modified) to date over the powerband that is available - it is so wide, strong and flexible. Which for me, and the way I drive, was really what I wanted….. but I didn’t think I was going to get it from this level of tune.

For a road car It’s all about the area under the curve to me.

I took it down a back lane that I know in the area, just to see how it went. It was quite manic at times to be honest and I lost traction in a couple of areas, that I’ve never had before with just the Stage 1 tuning box on.

It’s pretty stunning to drive now, but I appreciate it may not be for everyone, due to the nature of the power delivery.

Conclusions
I really wasn’t expecting this to pan out the way it did, but boy did I experience a few surprises.

Forget dyno figures: The driveability, noise and wide/strong powerband just makes this car so much more fun, in essence for fairly basic mod levels.

I’m not sure what else to say.

Basically…. don’t consider having your A45 remapped…. get it remapped!

I love it!

It goes without saying that I will be performing some VBOX logging as soon as I get a chance. I will also be getting back down the drag strip either during September or October. As soon as I get any performance related logs / times, I’ll post them up here.
Old 01 September 2015, 09:27 PM
  #81  
mickywrx
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Is it fast yet?
Old 01 September 2015, 09:56 PM
  #82  
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It will never be as fast as yours Micky.... I know my limits. Although I think a nice turbo next wouldn't go amiss.
Old 02 September 2015, 07:41 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Shaun
It will never be as fast as yours Micky.... I know my limits. Although I think a nice turbo next wouldn't go amiss.
Shaun reading this with full interest as this could be my next car.

In regards to closed loop this normally refers to a process where the end result is measured, in this case I would gather that the exhaust product is measured against the input air and fuel and sensors on the engine. Therefore, the process should be safer and more controlled as the burn process can be controlled more accurately.

The scoobys run open loop on wot so they just chuck in fuel and air and don't measure the end result.

Would that be your common understanding of the Mercedes system?
Old 02 September 2015, 09:13 AM
  #84  
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Beastie,
Get one!

AFAIK it's all closed loop....... you can't breathe without this Bosch management system knowing about it.
Old 03 September 2015, 01:09 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Shaun
Beastie,
Get one!

AFAIK it's all closed loop....... you can't breathe without this Bosch management system knowing about it.
That's probably why it hasn't gone "BANG" then

Any upgrades for the transmission software to sort out your gear change issues? I see a lot of people talking about "pedal commander" as a fix on the AMG forum.

Also have you tried race start?
1. Come to a complete stop
2. Point steering wheel straight.
3. Left foot on brake.
4. Turn off traction control and put car in M (manual mode).
5. Hold down both paddles and then confirm with the right paddle.
6. gas to floor
7. hold on tight
8. release brake.

Last edited by Beastie; 04 September 2015 at 08:48 AM.
Old 04 September 2015, 08:08 AM
  #86  
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Great thread and lovely car.
Old 04 September 2015, 09:35 AM
  #87  
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Beastie,
I'm looking at having the latest gearbox software updates from Mercedes applied.

No need for the "pedal commander"..... my throttle maps have all been adjusted as part of my ECU remap.

Yes.... I've used Race Start on a number of occasions.

SEDITION,
Old 04 September 2015, 10:05 AM
  #88  
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Good write up m8, abit to technical in some areas (lack of my knowledge). Seems spot the motor, just wish I had a spare £40k or so.
Old 05 September 2015, 09:23 PM
  #89  
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Fantastic detail Shaun. Great thread and a very interesting read. Thanks for taking the time to post.
Old 06 September 2015, 10:41 AM
  #90  
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Thanks guys!


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