How good is wynn's Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment
20 November 2005, 10:00 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: just simple old me
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How good is wynn's Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment
I have noisy tappets on my mondeo-saw this stuff on website-how good is it-anyone ever used it?
20 November 2005, 10:09 PM
#2
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reports in car mechanics give it the thumbs up,
its a 50/50 chance that it will work..
i have used it, and it worked but first try the following.
start engine and listen for noisey tappet.... if present raise rpm to 3000 and
hold for 10 secs.
release throttle and listen.. gone.... good
still there. turn off engine and wait 10 secs, start engine and listen....
if still there repeat
depending on how bad or whats caused the tappet to stick it may free.
mine tend to get noisy :
nearing an oil change
when the scoobs been standing for some time
generally if one wont pressurise after 3 attempts at the above and flush its time to change it...
oh and because they dont show any signs of failure, you have to do all 16, and i think there about £12 each ex vat and labour
Mart
its a 50/50 chance that it will work..
i have used it, and it worked but first try the following.
start engine and listen for noisey tappet.... if present raise rpm to 3000 and
hold for 10 secs.
release throttle and listen.. gone.... good
still there. turn off engine and wait 10 secs, start engine and listen....
if still there repeat
depending on how bad or whats caused the tappet to stick it may free.
mine tend to get noisy :
nearing an oil change
when the scoobs been standing for some time
generally if one wont pressurise after 3 attempts at the above and flush its time to change it...
oh and because they dont show any signs of failure, you have to do all 16, and i think there about £12 each ex vat and labour
Mart
20 November 2005, 10:10 PM
#4
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Llandudno
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i used it and i think it worked which 
me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
20 November 2005, 10:12 PM
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: just simple old me
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
will try that at next oil change-but only did an oil change 1000 mile ago-and with this frost i dont wanna do it again at mo-too damn cold lol
Originally Posted by pslewis
Have you tried a 'Flushing Oil'??
Might work!!
Pete
Might work!!
Pete
20 November 2005, 10:14 PM
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: just simple old me
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
not looked at bottle yet-do u have to use it at oil change time-or can u just add it whenever?
Originally Posted by tath
i used it and i think it worked which me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
20 November 2005, 10:15 PM
#7
Here's a quote I found interesting from David (APi engines)..
Assuming the noise doesn't fade after a few minutes from start up it is probably gummed up or weak hydraulic lifters. It is worth trying to clean them up with a simple but effective remedy.
Drain out half a litre of oil from the engine and refill using 1/2 litre of ATF auto transmission fluid. This marketed by a number of companies as ' hydraulic lifter cleaner' and you'll pay a tenner or so for about a cupful.......
My way should be rather cheaper and just as effective.
After 300 miles with the cleaner in drain off all the oil and refill with oil of choice and a fresh filter. Try not to red line the engine during the 300 miles just drive ' normally'
Assuming the noise doesn't fade after a few minutes from start up it is probably gummed up or weak hydraulic lifters. It is worth trying to clean them up with a simple but effective remedy.
Drain out half a litre of oil from the engine and refill using 1/2 litre of ATF auto transmission fluid. This marketed by a number of companies as ' hydraulic lifter cleaner' and you'll pay a tenner or so for about a cupful.......
My way should be rather cheaper and just as effective.
After 300 miles with the cleaner in drain off all the oil and refill with oil of choice and a fresh filter. Try not to red line the engine during the 300 miles just drive ' normally'
Trending Topics
20 November 2005, 10:19 PM
#8
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by tath
i used it and i think it worked which me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.Petrol
it only has to weaken the crud the pressure will do the rest..
Mart
20 November 2005, 10:19 PM
#9
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: just simple old me
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thank u-sounds good advice-mine does go quiet after a min-and i think API engines know what they are talking about as well
Originally Posted by jameswrx
Here's a quote I found interesting from David (APi engines)..
Assuming the noise doesn't fade after a few minutes from start up it is probably gummed up or weak hydraulic lifters. It is worth trying to clean them up with a simple but effective remedy.
Drain out half a litre of oil from the engine and refill using 1/2 litre of ATF auto transmission fluid. This marketed by a number of companies as ' hydraulic lifter cleaner' and you'll pay a tenner or so for about a cupful.......
My way should be rather cheaper and just as effective.
After 300 miles with the cleaner in drain off all the oil and refill with oil of choice and a fresh filter. Try not to red line the engine during the 300 miles just drive ' normally'
Assuming the noise doesn't fade after a few minutes from start up it is probably gummed up or weak hydraulic lifters. It is worth trying to clean them up with a simple but effective remedy.
Drain out half a litre of oil from the engine and refill using 1/2 litre of ATF auto transmission fluid. This marketed by a number of companies as ' hydraulic lifter cleaner' and you'll pay a tenner or so for about a cupful.......
My way should be rather cheaper and just as effective.
After 300 miles with the cleaner in drain off all the oil and refill with oil of choice and a fresh filter. Try not to red line the engine during the 300 miles just drive ' normally'
20 November 2005, 10:20 PM
#10
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by pslewis
Have you tried a 'Flushing Oil'??
Might work!!
Pete
Might work!!
Pete
the lifter treatment you can leave in afaik.
i use the flushing oil, and get some other b*gger to get there hands dirty
Mart
20 November 2005, 10:21 PM
#11
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: just simple old me
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
what caused mine i think is it had wrong grade oil put in-apparently zetec engines are very fussy what oil they have-and wrong oil was only in for about 1000 miles
20 November 2005, 10:22 PM
#12
Last bottle I looked at was just various detergents and viscosity improvers.
You get the same from changing the oil more often. Which lack of regular oil changes is the usual cause of the problem in the first place - especially on the iron block zetecs, where IMO Ford's service intervals were pushing the limits of the recommended oils they used. When Ford switched to the thinner oils to address pump up issues, it didn't help matters. As the thicker oils they used to use were better at keeping them quiet when hot.
You get the same from changing the oil more often. Which lack of regular oil changes is the usual cause of the problem in the first place - especially on the iron block zetecs, where IMO Ford's service intervals were pushing the limits of the recommended oils they used. When Ford switched to the thinner oils to address pump up issues, it didn't help matters. As the thicker oils they used to use were better at keeping them quiet when hot.
20 November 2005, 10:28 PM
#13
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: just simple old me
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mine is ok when hot-just noisy when cold-and in this frost its even worse lol-just a tad worried that if valves are not closing properly etc can that burn a valve out?
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Last bottle I looked at was just various detergents and viscosity improvers.
You get the same from changing the oil more often. Which lack of regular oil changes is the usual cause of the problem in the first place - especially on the iron block zetecs, where IMO Ford's service intervals were pushing the limits of the recommended oils they used. When Ford switched to the thinner oils to address pump up issues, it didn't help matters. As the thicker oils they used to use were better at keeping them quiet when hot.
You get the same from changing the oil more often. Which lack of regular oil changes is the usual cause of the problem in the first place - especially on the iron block zetecs, where IMO Ford's service intervals were pushing the limits of the recommended oils they used. When Ford switched to the thinner oils to address pump up issues, it didn't help matters. As the thicker oils they used to use were better at keeping them quiet when hot.
20 November 2005, 11:12 PM
#14
Oh right it's worse when cold, so a tappet is draining down overnight and not re-filling. Ignore my rubbish on the thicker oils then 
A drained tappet causing slack clearances won't cause the valve to the burn out, as the clearance actually means the valve is shut and the noise is caused by the gap between the tappet and the cam.
Unfortunately, now my brain has just kicked into gear - there is a flipside where a sticking valve causes the same noise (and that will burn out). The latter very rarely happens these days unless you have bent valve (usually from a cambelt failure that's not been correctly repaired) or excessive varnish deposits on the stem (never happens in this day and age), so it shouldn't be anything to worry about.
More likely to be a gummed up tappet.
Personally I've had limited sucess in using tappet treatments products. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't, and in some cases I've had improvements by changing the oil at several close intervals. And some fix themselves after a good long motorway blast with the revs held above 3000rpm for an hour or so. Not much help, but that's the way it is!
A drained tappet causing slack clearances won't cause the valve to the burn out, as the clearance actually means the valve is shut and the noise is caused by the gap between the tappet and the cam.
Unfortunately, now my brain has just kicked into gear - there is a flipside where a sticking valve causes the same noise (and that will burn out). The latter very rarely happens these days unless you have bent valve (usually from a cambelt failure that's not been correctly repaired) or excessive varnish deposits on the stem (never happens in this day and age), so it shouldn't be anything to worry about.
More likely to be a gummed up tappet.
Personally I've had limited sucess in using tappet treatments products. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't, and in some cases I've had improvements by changing the oil at several close intervals. And some fix themselves after a good long motorway blast with the revs held above 3000rpm for an hour or so. Not much help, but that's the way it is!
Last edited by ALi-B; 20 November 2005 at 11:16 PM.
20 November 2005, 11:16 PM
#15
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: just simple old me
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
god knows what side of engine lol-im sat on drivers seat lol-but for first few beats of engine its got a differant sound-hard to explain-but sounds like its not beating right-hopefully someone can put into words the sound i hear lol
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Oh right it's worse when cold, so a tappet is draining down overnight and not re-filling. Ignore my rubbish on the thicker oils then
A drained tappet causing slack clearances won't cause the valve to the burn out, as the clearance actually means the valve is shut and the noise is caused by the gap between the tappet and the cam.
Unfortunately, now my brain has just kicked into gear - there is a flipside where a sticking valve causes the same noise (and that will burn out). The latter very rarely happens these days unless you have bent valve (usually from a cambelt failure that's not been correctly repaired) or excessive varnish deposits on the stem (never happens in this day and age), so it shouldn't be anything to worry about.
More likely to be a gummed up tappet- Can I hazard a guess...right hand side of the engine on the exhaust cam? That usually the favourite.
Personally I've had limited sucess in using tappet treatments products. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't, and in some cases I've improvemnets changing the oil at several close intervals. And some fix themselves after a good long motorway blast with the revs held above 3000rpm for an hour or so. Not much help, but that's the way it is!
A drained tappet causing slack clearances won't cause the valve to the burn out, as the clearance actually means the valve is shut and the noise is caused by the gap between the tappet and the cam.
Unfortunately, now my brain has just kicked into gear - there is a flipside where a sticking valve causes the same noise (and that will burn out). The latter very rarely happens these days unless you have bent valve (usually from a cambelt failure that's not been correctly repaired) or excessive varnish deposits on the stem (never happens in this day and age), so it shouldn't be anything to worry about.
More likely to be a gummed up tappet- Can I hazard a guess...right hand side of the engine on the exhaust cam? That usually the favourite.
Personally I've had limited sucess in using tappet treatments products. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't, and in some cases I've improvemnets changing the oil at several close intervals. And some fix themselves after a good long motorway blast with the revs held above 3000rpm for an hour or so. Not much help, but that's the way it is!
21 November 2005, 03:46 PM
#19
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 39,877
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Advice from David from API is always good since he knows what he is talkng about. I would try what he says and if that does not clear it then you have to be prepared to change the tappets. 
Les
Les
21 November 2005, 04:09 PM
#20
21 November 2005, 04:11 PM
#21
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: @Junc 12, M40 Warwicksh; 01926 614522 CV33 9PL -Use 9GX for Satnav. South Mids Alcatek ECu dealer
Posts: 6,377
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally Posted by APIDavid
DO NOT put flushing oil in a Subaru Impreza - EVER. I know this car on the thread is a Mondeo, but comments like trying flushing oil might temp a few Subaru owners too.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
22 November 2005, 09:12 AM
#23
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: www.tiovicente.com
Posts: 2,006
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Am I the only one wondering why this thread is in NSR? It's not like we can blame Tony Blair for conning us into buying flushing oil is it?
Is it?
Is it?
22 November 2005, 10:13 AM
#24
22 November 2005, 10:28 AM
#25
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by APIDavid
PS Thanks for the kind comments Leslie.
i,m going to be totally honest and say, i've never know a such a model of car that comes with so many foibles, quirks and subculture as this.
I,m not disputing anything youve found or know, and i respect the knowledge of these engines to you is far greater than mine.
but,, hells bells for a supposedly robust engine its more fussy than an F1 machine
lets be honest if joe public knew all this as they walked into the showroom, i bet half of them wouldnt touch a scooby with a barge pole..
Mart
25 February 2017, 01:12 AM
#26
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Coatbridge
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reports in car mechanics give it the thumbs up,
its a 50/50 chance that it will work..
i have used it, and it worked but first try the following.
start engine and listen for noisey tappet.... if present raise rpm to 3000 and
hold for 10 secs.
release throttle and listen.. gone.... good
still there. turn off engine and wait 10 secs, start engine and listen....
if still there repeat
depending on how bad or whats caused the tappet to stick it may free.
mine tend to get noisy :
nearing an oil change
when the scoobs been standing for some time
generally if one wont pressurise after 3 attempts at the above and flush its time to change it...
oh and because they dont show any signs of failure, you have to do all 16, and i think there about £12 each ex vat and labour
Mart
its a 50/50 chance that it will work..
i have used it, and it worked but first try the following.
start engine and listen for noisey tappet.... if present raise rpm to 3000 and
hold for 10 secs.
release throttle and listen.. gone.... good
still there. turn off engine and wait 10 secs, start engine and listen....
if still there repeat
depending on how bad or whats caused the tappet to stick it may free.
mine tend to get noisy :
nearing an oil change
when the scoobs been standing for some time
generally if one wont pressurise after 3 attempts at the above and flush its time to change it...
oh and because they dont show any signs of failure, you have to do all 16, and i think there about £12 each ex vat and labour
Mart
25 February 2017, 08:35 AM
#28
Scooby Regular
WOW! tried this method and worked straight away not a scooby but still done the trick i bought a kia ceed 10 plate 2 weeks ago lifters started to get noisy (tapping noise) tried ure method and straight back to my purring quiet engine thanks a million. Recommend this method before spending any hard earned cash thanks mate.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Scott@ScoobySpares
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
61
11 January 2021 03:08 PM
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
33
29 August 2017 07:18 PM
Scott@ScoobySpares
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
7
14 December 2015 08:16 AM
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
20
22 October 2015 06:12 AM
