relocating battery to the boot
26 November 2016, 04:01 PM
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relocating battery to the boot
I am wanting to relocate the battery to the boot so I can fit my fuel swirl pot and Bosch external pump in the engine bay. Has anyone done this and if so what size cable did you use?
26 November 2016, 09:04 PM
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Cheers Tim, was thinking 170 amp cable would be enough, may move the washer bottle aswell as could mount the pump in that area.
26 November 2016, 09:32 PM
#4
25mm/170A cable means you're unlikely to drop more than 0.5V during cranking.
Make sure earth connection is really good to the chassis, and that the battery is securely mounted and installed safely so anything thrown in the boot won't short it out!
Make sure earth connection is really good to the chassis, and that the battery is securely mounted and installed safely so anything thrown in the boot won't short it out!
27 November 2016, 06:05 PM
#7
the chassis will have a lower resistance than a cable,
earthing kits are well worth having fpor older Scoobs, and any return path will be dependent on making a GOOD connection. You can do that easily with a cable, not so easily to painted sheet metal.
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27 November 2016, 06:12 PM
#8
Each to their own - if it were me, I'd sort the earthing out so that all the earthing points work right; but a cable back to the boot is maybe easier!
All the cars I've worked on with relocated batteries have not needed an earth cable running from the front to the back - but they tend to be stripped out race/track cars and perhaps don't have the same power demands (no luxuries lol).
All the cars I've worked on with relocated batteries have not needed an earth cable running from the front to the back - but they tend to be stripped out race/track cars and perhaps don't have the same power demands (no luxuries lol).
27 November 2016, 09:58 PM
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Cheers guys, work as an electrician and spent 10 years of my military career working on various vehicle categories so won't be an issue. Pity I did not keep a pair of jump leads I once made up they were fit for trucks so would have saved me buying cable. Had a quick look today but I might be leaving the battery in the engine bay as the swirl pot might be too tall for the front but will check and also check on the washer bottle position as also mentioned
27 November 2016, 10:17 PM
#14
Not sure I agree? Unless you fit a firewall.
Engine bay is designed to cope with crashes and fuel leakage, and the front bulkhead is a good fire barrier.
If you have a rear end shunt with a boot mounted swirl pot it will spill fuel everywhere and with no firewall, I wouldn't want to be in that!
Engine bay is designed to cope with crashes and fuel leakage, and the front bulkhead is a good fire barrier.
If you have a rear end shunt with a boot mounted swirl pot it will spill fuel everywhere and with no firewall, I wouldn't want to be in that!
28 November 2016, 07:22 AM
#15
Not sure I agree? Unless you fit a firewall.
Engine bay is designed to cope with crashes and fuel leakage, and the front bulkhead is a good fire barrier.
If you have a rear end shunt with a boot mounted swirl pot it will spill fuel everywhere and with no firewall, I wouldn't want to be in that!
Engine bay is designed to cope with crashes and fuel leakage, and the front bulkhead is a good fire barrier.
If you have a rear end shunt with a boot mounted swirl pot it will spill fuel everywhere and with no firewall, I wouldn't want to be in that!
Someone mentioned on a thread previously about a fire risk with fuel and exhaust manifolds.
Neat fuel in large quantities will not burn on an exhaust manifold. I had a burst fuel pipe ln my scoob and it dumped nearly half a tank of fuel on the manifolds. It just evaporated and smelt a bit funny....
I wouldnt have a swirl pot in the boot without the fire wall etc
28 November 2016, 11:30 AM
#16
I agree with you Tim.
Someone mentioned on a thread previously about a fire risk with fuel and exhaust manifolds.
Neat fuel in large quantities will not burn on an exhaust manifold. I had a burst fuel pipe ln my scoob and it dumped nearly half a tank of fuel on the manifolds. It just evaporated and smelt a bit funny....
I wouldnt have a swirl pot in the boot without the fire wall etc
Someone mentioned on a thread previously about a fire risk with fuel and exhaust manifolds.
Neat fuel in large quantities will not burn on an exhaust manifold. I had a burst fuel pipe ln my scoob and it dumped nearly half a tank of fuel on the manifolds. It just evaporated and smelt a bit funny....
I wouldnt have a swirl pot in the boot without the fire wall etc
I remember switching off and watching fuel boil off the down pipe, waiting the huge "wooof" and flames...but they never came.
28 November 2016, 11:46 AM
#17
Cheers guys, work as an electrician and spent 10 years of my military career working on various vehicle categories so won't be an issue. Pity I did not keep a pair of jump leads I once made up they were fit for trucks so would have saved me buying cable. Had a quick look today but I might be leaving the battery in the engine bay as the swirl pot might be too tall for the front but will check and also check on the washer bottle position as also mentioned
28 November 2016, 11:47 AM
#18
The reason earthing kits work on older cars is due to poorly maintained cruddy connections. You clean those connections it will do the same thing.
Sheilding the sensor cables are where the gains would come from
28 November 2016, 01:47 PM
#19
Not sure I agree? Unless you fit a firewall.
Engine bay is designed to cope with crashes and fuel leakage, and the front bulkhead is a good fire barrier.
If you have a rear end shunt with a boot mounted swirl pot it will spill fuel everywhere and with no firewall, I wouldn't want to be in that!
Engine bay is designed to cope with crashes and fuel leakage, and the front bulkhead is a good fire barrier.
If you have a rear end shunt with a boot mounted swirl pot it will spill fuel everywhere and with no firewall, I wouldn't want to be in that!
28 November 2016, 05:34 PM
#22
The chassis will have lower resistance than a cable due to the CSA of a chassis been enormous compared to any cable and parallel paths etc.
The reason earthing kits work on older cars is due to poorly maintained cruddy connections. You clean those connections it will do the same thing.
Sheilding the sensor cables are where the gains would come from
The reason earthing kits work on older cars is due to poorly maintained cruddy connections. You clean those connections it will do the same thing.
Sheilding the sensor cables are where the gains would come from
A high quality new copper cable will be superior, trust me.
28 November 2016, 06:32 PM
#23
Originally Posted by 360ste
...Pity I did not keep a pair of jump leads I once made up they were fit for trucks...
Purely out of interest, roughly what was the cross-sectional area of the cables?
How thick was each individual strand of copper?
Get an insulation boot on that +ve terminal before there's a major mishap, please!
01 December 2016, 08:50 AM
#26
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