Immobiliser removal
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Immobiliser removal
Hi, hoping someone may be able to help me.
Currently in the process of fitting my ej20 engine into my VW beetle, and I'm using the original loom cut down (removing abs, SRS etc) and I wanted to remove the immobiliser wiring.
It's the Mitsubishi system (MY00) with transponder ring. I do have the original keys but don't really want to have to hide the transponder ring with the key in the vehicle.
Is there any way of removing it? Am I right in thinking that because my Ecu is a UK it'll need unlocking to work?
I planned on running an Apexi FC on the engine so if I swap the cam and crank wires would this work?
If anyone can help please, even if PM so not public
Thanks in advance
Currently in the process of fitting my ej20 engine into my VW beetle, and I'm using the original loom cut down (removing abs, SRS etc) and I wanted to remove the immobiliser wiring.
It's the Mitsubishi system (MY00) with transponder ring. I do have the original keys but don't really want to have to hide the transponder ring with the key in the vehicle.
Is there any way of removing it? Am I right in thinking that because my Ecu is a UK it'll need unlocking to work?
I planned on running an Apexi FC on the engine so if I swap the cam and crank wires would this work?
If anyone can help please, even if PM so not public
Thanks in advance
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Because I want to use the original Beetle ignition to keep keys etc, if I leave the immobiliser in the loom then it's going to need the transponder ring and original key putting somewhere in the car to switch off the immobiliser.
Sorry if that wasn't clear
Sorry if that wasn't clear
#6
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not sure on the standard system now but I know with 99's the key isn't coded to the ECU specifically (i.e. you can swap ECU's without having to do anything else). So i guess it should be possible to remove the system if you have the entire loom available to see where it's been pinned in.
Most likely will be a mess of wires up under the dash/steering column as I think the older cars had the alarms fitted by the dealers so quality of install can vary a little.
Most likely will be a mess of wires up under the dash/steering column as I think the older cars had the alarms fitted by the dealers so quality of install can vary a little.
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Yeah I've got the whole loom out to modify what I don't need.
From all the research i'be done, the UK ecu's have a Rom built in differently to the Japan spec ones and that's why the crank and cam signal wires are wired backwards compared to Japanese spec. I'm guessing once the UK ecu gets an immobiliser signal the Rom/Software swaps the cam and crank signals internally?
From all the research i'be done, the UK ecu's have a Rom built in differently to the Japan spec ones and that's why the crank and cam signal wires are wired backwards compared to Japanese spec. I'm guessing once the UK ecu gets an immobiliser signal the Rom/Software swaps the cam and crank signals internally?
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#8
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yes it swaps them over internally but that's nothing to do with the immobiliser circuit. I believe immobiliser just grounds a pin on the ECU to give it the OK to start. You can always send the ECU off to get the ECUlabs software loaded on - the immobiliser check can be disabled there and your good to go (as well as antilag/launch control/mafless/live mappable).
http://eculabs.com/
http://eculabs.com/
#9
If this came from a MY99 MY00 UK car, then it should have the sigma M30 alarm/immobiliser which is a standalone unit that breaks into the fuel pump wiring (and starter?), and does not have coded keys that are connected to the ECU.
I would have thought you can just search "remove sigma m30".
If it doesn't work with the sigma ECU removed and the fuel and starter wires bridged, then leave it in and use the fob that came with it?
I would have thought you can just search "remove sigma m30".
If it doesn't work with the sigma ECU removed and the fuel and starter wires bridged, then leave it in and use the fob that came with it?
Last edited by tjmatt; 27 October 2016 at 01:09 PM. Reason: M30 is spliced into fuel pump and starter circuits.
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From everything I searched it's suppose to have the sigma, but looking at the immobiliser box it's the Mitsubishi variant which is harder to remove supposedly. Doesn't have the keypad or anything
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If this came from a MY99 MY00 UK car, then it should have the sigma M30 alarm/immobiliser which is a standalone unit that breaks into the fuel pump wiring (and starter?), and does not have coded keys that are connected to the ECU.
I would have thought you can just search "remove sigma m30".
If it doesn't work with the sigma ECU removed and the fuel and starter wires bridged, then leave it in and use the fob that came with it?
I would have thought you can just search "remove sigma m30".
If it doesn't work with the sigma ECU removed and the fuel and starter wires bridged, then leave it in and use the fob that came with it?
As has been said you can swap ECUs without reprogramming the keys so the immobiliser circuit must be stand alone and feed info to the ECU. If you can get a diagram of the immobiliser circuit you should be able to bypass it.
#15
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Speak to Rich jones @ RJES .com as he did all the loom wok for my Subaru VW conversion and he know what he is doing with these looms , mine still uses the transponder key as it was a good way of immobilising the van ,, I also got him to keep all my OBD2 stuff and it has been very useful
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Appreciate that link thanks, exactly what I'm trying to do, unfortunately not fully answered it though.
Seems to confirm what I was thinking. Will look into the Eculabs as well. Had a power FC on my old scoob, which I know is dated now but still works well.
Looking at keeping my OBD socket too
Seems to confirm what I was thinking. Will look into the Eculabs as well. Had a power FC on my old scoob, which I know is dated now but still works well.
Looking at keeping my OBD socket too
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Only answer I came up with was to fit an Apexi FC as this is essentially a JDM ecu so doesn't use an immobiliser (hence swapping cam and crank wires), where as the uk2000 ecu's swap the cam and crank internally so no way round it that I've found personally using the original ecu