jonnyboy82

iTrader: (10)

I dont think of all the cars Ive owned ever have I heard such **** poor speakers! Sounds like they are made from paper

Anyway do 6.5" replacements fit or do I need some shallow ones?

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Most speakers are made from paper.....

6.5" will fit. You'll need to use MDF spacers and choose your speakers carefully - too deep and you give yourself additional work.

Do you still have the standard HU? That is the weakest part of the system (even if the speakers are very cheap). Doesn't matter what speakers you fit if the HU remains - it will still sound terrible.

Decent HU and stock speakers will sound a lot better than standard HU and decent speakers....

jonnyboy82

iTrader: (10)

I have already fitted my h/unit a Pioneer DEH-80PRS and yes it has made a huge difference but the standard speakers are the worst Ive ever heard in all the cars I have owned!

Any recommendations on the depth of the 6.5" speakers I can fit with a spacer?

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I have an 80-PRS - great HU. Are you planning on running it active?

I fitted Audison AV 6.5 speakers - which have a mounting depth of 69mm. These just cleared the windows using 18mm MDF spacers. However, I had to replace my Bug doorcards with Hawkeye ones in order to clear the speakers. If using Bug/Blob door cars them aim to use 12mm spacers. Therefore I'd look for speakers with a max depth less 60mm, maybe closer to 50mm.

You may also find that you may need to trim the metal around the door aperture with a Dremel or similar, depending upon which speakers you get.

Finally, I'd suggest drilling 4 evenly spaced holes through the door and bolting the spacer through these, rather than using the 3 OEM mounting holes.

jonnyboy82

iTrader: (10)

Good choice! The 80-PRS is a great HU! Ive always been into my ICE but ended up selling most of it to start fresh. But I did manage to hold onto my genesis p4u and a decent sub.

With regard to the door cards im pretty sure blob and hawk are the same no? And yes im planning on running active also.

How do you rate the Audison AV and whats the full spec of these? Some great info and advice there dude much appreciated!

Trix-wrx

I have new HU and some 6.5 clarion in front doors with spacers in my blob and it's a lot better (let's face it standard system is appalling!) but I still get a fair bit of vibration. It's booked in next week to have a shed load of sound deadening and custom built speaker enclosures as sound quality is important to me. Thought I would let some professionals do it rather than me chasing things vibrating. Will post feedback next week when it's done

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

The Audison are excellent speakers, really well constructed. They won EISA 2011 speakers of the year. I have the AV K6, which woofer, tweeter and X/O (which are surplus now). They are really good set up active. They have a great punch in the midrance but are very musical too. Great all-rounders, which is important for me as I play all sorts of music. I think that they would happily thump plenty of bass but I have the LPF set for them above 100hz, otherwise the doors vibrate too much (even with a lot of Silent Coat applied). One of the beauties of running active, the ability to adjust and balance each speaker.

TBH, I never would have considered them as I think that they retail at about £350. However, I managed to find them second-hand on TalkAudio for £200, seemed too good a deal to turn down.

Specs and details here: http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=38


Save for the HU, I bought all 3 of my amps and my Genesis Sub from the TalkAudio classifieds, so saved a lot of money (although still spent far more than originally planned).

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

It should be good providing you don't try and run too much bass through the doors.

jonnyboy82

iTrader: (10)

So just to update I managed to pick up some Hertz ESK 165.5s for a steal off talkaudio. Now I need to get them fitted and get some sound deadening in. Looking into it seems silent coat 2/4mm is the best bet.

Do you think I can get these to fit with some 12mm spacers and anyone have any pics with the door cards off and speakers fitted? According to the spec sheet they have a mounting depth of 64mm.

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/wp-co...165.5_tech.pdf

Trix-wrx

After taking it for sound deadening and door skins and all that stuff, one of my speakers blew so I had to buy some new ones. They are hertz aswell not sure which ones but sound quality is not bad and deffo much better than standard. However, with the new speakers I was told that they were slightly touching the door cards and vibrating a fair bit so he had to buff away the fins and plastic bits round that area. Much better now. Although after a week I already want more lol. Probably do the rear doors when I get chance as I want to try and get a sound I'm happy with without having a sub.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

They should clear as are 5mm shallower than mine. Silent coat the doors and the baffles to give yourself as much room as possible. Too close to the door and they'll foul the windows, too far away from the door and you risk fouling the cards....

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Are they co-axil or component speakers? Do you have them amped?

jonnyboy82

iTrader: (10)

I have ordered the silent coat 4mm just need to gey some 12mm spacers now. But where to buy from? I dont have the time or tools to make my own unfortunately. Where did you get your spacers?

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I made mine. Don't bother with any of the plastic Corsa B dross, total waste of time.

Try eBay or Talk Audio. Ideally you want them custom made from the diameters on your speaker's spec sheets.

Bare in mind that the Impreza speaker mounts are a daft triangle shape. I would suggest just getting some rings and then drilling new holes through the doorskin and bolting the rings to it. I made mine from using the original mounts as templates and in hindsight, it was additional hassle.

Trix-wrx

The one that blew was coxial the new ones are components. Don't have them amped yet but think that's the plan soon. Just deciding whether to do the back doors and speakers first then amp them all.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I really wouldn't bother with rears unless you carry passengers a lot and care what they hear. Rear speakers will add volume but do nothing but ruin the sound stage. You want the music to come from the front and center ideally, like you would at a gig or sitting at home.

I'd really look into the possibility of fitting a sub, in the boot preferably. That with comps up front is the ideal basic system. You'll need to amp both but this can be done with a suitably sized single amp.

Do you have a saloon or a wagon?

Trix-wrx

I have a saloon. Really want to try and avoid a sub for space and weight reasons although I would still put one in if I couldn't get a sound I was satisfied with without it.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Do the saloons have speakers in the rear shelf. I've seen some 6x9 sub speakers that work surprisingly well, which maybe a solution.

Get a decent amp for the fronts first and see how you get on with that, before considering more speakers.

Trix-wrx

Mine doesn't have speakers on rear shelf but I guess putting some in is another option. I have an amp ready it's just a case of getting round to putting it in

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Amps fit nicely under the front seats

jonnyboy82

iTrader: (10)

Ok, hopefully im going to get the door cards off this weekend and get started. Is there a guide to doorcard removal?

We have a laser epilog machine @ work which should no problem cut me some 12mm mdf spacers so im going to give it a try.

jonnyboy82

iTrader: (10)

Finally made a start on the first stage on sound deadening the passenger front door. Managed to get the inner skin finished and I was half way through the outer but run out of daylight. My god did I under estaimate how long this takes to do I thought I would have have it done a couple of hours each door but so far its taken me about 4 hours.

How do this look for a beginner? And how do you manage to fit the sheets whole and then know exactly where to cut the holes? Mine looks more like a patch work quilt







Also I noticed the connectors on the speaker looked a bit mouldy? And I found out somebody has already replaced front speakers with these:

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I didn't bother trying to preserve all the bolt heads and fittings, I just fitted sheets across the whole door. You don't really need to cover every inch though, just make sure each different facet is coated, to stop it resonating. Easier to do the whole lot though.

I'd suggest covering the 2 big holes top and bottom too. You want to try and make the door a sealed enclosure, as much as possible. Worth doing the back of the door cards also.

Moisture builds up in the doors and can have an effect on any exposed metal terminals/connectors. You can get waterproof foam sheets which you bag around the speakers and sandwich between the outer doorskin and mounting ring.