GB270_CALUM

Morning all,

I have this clarion 12inch 1000watt sub and was wondering if this fli amp is OK to use with it?

Here's links to both, hope someone can help

The sub http://www.clarion.com/eur/product_manual/U_Z/XW1200__english.pdf

The amp http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/car-amps-subs/fli-fl800-4-f1-4-channel-amplifier

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

No, not at all.

Firstly, what HU are you using? Does it have separate Sub channel RCA or low-pass filter?

That amp is a 4 channel one, so you can't run it as a single channel for a sub. It's not powerful enough either.

If you want a multi-channel amp, you need one that can be configured to run a single channel and at least 200w. Your speaker is 4ohm , so you need to look at the continuous (RMS) power rating at 4ohms for a single channel. Ignore "peak power" rating.

You'd be better getting a dedicated mono amp purely for driving the sub.

The only one suitable at Halfords is the Sony: http://www.halfords.com/technology/c...ofer-amplifier

Any of these would be suitable:

http://caraudiosecurity.com/amplifie...able-amps/pg-2

Or this Vibe has a big discount: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/ampl.../mono-amps?p=1 have a look at some of the other ones they have on sale too.

Depends how much you want to spend? You get much more for your money if you buy secondhand - either on ebay or via a forum such as TalkAudio.

This for example will be a perfect fit and better than most new stuff costing 3 times as much:

https://www.talkstuff.net/ipb/index....s-profile-sub/

GB270_CALUM

Cheers mate a lot of useful info there, am really out my depths when it come to this stuff, good to speak to someone who knows what they are on about.

This is the head unit I have,

http://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/bluetooth/KMM-303BT/?view=details

What about this one? http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/amplifiers/mono-amps/vibe-lite-box-bass-1-mono-amp

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

That HU will work. It has a low-pass filter so you don't need that feature on an amp (although pretty much all do though). It does only have one RCA out, which means if you want to add another amp (for the rest of the speakers at some point) then you have to make sure that the amp you buy now has pass-through (so it has an RCA out which will send the full signal to another amp). It also has a switchable Sub-out. So it will work fine.

Can't go wrong at that price for the amp. Nice review here: https://www.talkstuff.net/index.php/...-bass1-v1-r589

It looks like you can connect it via a rear speaker channel rather than RCA's, which is very useful if ever you want to run another amp.

Be sure you understand exactly what you are doing come installation and don't scrimp on cable, connectors, fuses etc. Otherwise you run the risk of wrecking the equipment of burning your car to the ground. It's not difficult but I've seen some shocking installs in my time which have turned people's cars into time bombs.

GB270_CALUM

Was just going to use this?

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/vibe-slick-4-gauge-2000w-amplifier-wiring-kit

Have had subs and amps in cars before but they all came as sort of packages, everything included.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

That's overkill to be honest. Especially the fuse.

You need (minimum) 8 gauge power & earth cable and a 25/30amp fuse. You want a fuse that is as small as possible for your given current draw. It's a lot cheaper to replace blown fuses than it is an amp or a burnt out car.

At absolute full power, I doubt you'll pull 25amps, certainly a 30amp fuse will be more than sufficient.

As a bonus, I don't believe you need a switched wire from your HU to turn the amp on, I think that it senses the HU amp via the RCA and switches automatically. Check the instructions.

It probably works out cheaper buying a kit but make sure you get the correct size fuses and decent size ring terminals. Usually they come with very small ones and can be a struggle fitting them to the battery terminal. Make sure you mount the fuse as close to the battery as possible, 6 inches max.

Also, you want the ground to be as short as possible and to have a very good contact to the chassis (sand any paint off). I've got an amp under each seat and have the earth connected to to the chassis where the seat belt bolts up, using a large ring terminal, for example.