charlesr

iTrader: (1)

Still awaiting diagnosis from garage but noise sounded bad, so.....

I have a MY2000 Turbo 2000. It has an RA gearbox and has just had new tyres, discs, calipers, shocks and a load of other stuff.

Engine started a tapping noise in time with revs - was stuck in traffic, so kept going for 5 mins and then the oil lamp came on and 20 seconds later it tried to stall while I was trying to find a sideroad, making a nasty clunking noise while pulling over.
Last week, plenty of oil. Now totally dry...

Anyway, chances of finding a low mileage engine from back then = slim, so assuming it's totally screwed, what more modern engine can I get dropped in without too much hassle?

What stuff do I need to remember for example, will I need the ECU too? Thanks.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

First off, you need to find out what happened to it and why.

Or you might find the same problem with whatever replacement engine you fit.

What engine/ancillary mods, if any?

charlesr

iTrader: (1)

Standard 2.0L turbo (MY2000) so 220bhp or whatever is was. Only engine mods are mushroom kit and a cat-back stainless exhaust (both on it when I got it). Drivetrain has light flywheel and RA gearbox (my fault).

Yeah, I'll report back when the garage tell me what went wrong. Fault codes stored were knock sensor and whatever 53 is....

b3nmw

There is a lot of newage engines going about in the breakers on here, might be worth considering. Not certain what support mods would be required though

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Was it mapped for the air intake and exhaust?

charlesr

iTrader: (1)

I don't know. Not by me. I've had it since 2007. Phone based dyno (accelerometer jobbie) puts it between 5.9 and 6.1 seconds, so guessing not. No way I can tell is there apart from finding an ecutek dealer?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Nope, unless you can contact the owner who had it before you.

If it wasn't mapped, that could have been your problem right there

You can muck about with induction/fuelling etc on these like you can on some, and "hope" it'll be OK....Not that YOU did, but you get my meaning?

charlesr

iTrader: (1)

Yeah makes sense - cheers for all the advice.

charlesr

iTrader: (1)

So, nothing came out of the engine with the remaining oil. Clean... So they put some more oil in and fired it up, but said it sounded like big end bearing / main bearing action

There is no sign of oil leaking from anywhere, so god know where it went. Is it possible it was burnt and went out with the exhaust?

Anyhow, I need an engine. I'm close enough to racedynamix winchester, so I'll get it remapped properly after putting the engine in. Which engine shall I go for? How much should I expect to pay? I don't want masses of power, so similar to what I have now is fine, but would go higher e.g. up to STi / 300bhp type levels if something suitable is available. Totally out of my depth here. Any advice much appreciated.

hardcoreimpreza

How can fitting an induction kit and cat back exhaust, make the engine loose oil?

Sounds like an oil leak, there are thousands of impreza's out there that have those mods and have not been mapped. I'm not saying its the best idea, but its does not sound like thats what caused the problem.

charlesr

iTrader: (1)

Found an EJ20 engine locally - saw it running in a breaking Legacy. Felt and sounded smooth and exhaust very clean from cold, so fingers crossed. 78k miles which is the same as my car's original engine when I bought it in 2007 so should last a while.

Really sad that there's so much money in breaking these old cars - people are buying them to break rather than keeping them on the road

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Really?
Can I suggest you read up on "Detonation", aka det, pinking, pre-ignition, etc?

Scoob engines easily run lean, and then comes the dreaded det and the engine destroys it's main bearings.

And one of the main reasons for running lean is induction kits, which destroy the MAF, or upset fuelling.