banny sti

iTrader: (68)

of course, Asda trips are a must

scooby2.5maz

iTrader: (16)

Lol , you putting the rad in the boot ?

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

Keeping it at the front for now but something I may look into later

Dubzy

iTrader: (4)

Nice spec Banny, that turbo setup looks absolutely mental, after taking my tubular headers and up pipe off twice in the last few weeks just thinking about trying to shoe horn that lot in would scare the life out of me lol...

Front exit short exhaust sounds interesting and not something ive witnessed before, looking forward to seeing the finished project

Turbovin

iTrader: (2)

Which one revs the best, a destroked EJ257 or a 2.1 stroker? How much worse is a 2.1 stroker compared to a stock EJ207? Still can't decide what to get for my Type R, don't want a lazy engine where there's no point revving past 7k rpm.

Is the cost for pistons and rods higher for a destroked EJ257 compared to a normal 2.5l?

Steve001

iTrader: (7)

I love this thread, it's answering all the questions I'm too lazy to ask

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Great spec Banny

This turbo you will love it,have tried that turbo on EVO and I've loved that turbo,very quick spool and should make yours desired power


Thanks,Jura

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Lol at you lot being happy to get 25k out of a built engine my standard engine is on 111k and still going. If all these fancy pistons, rods, bearings etc that are supposedly better than stock cant last a qtr of the milage what's the point.

I want my next engine to be able to handle a shade over 400bhp and I expect to see 100k out of it, it's all about the builder, there are engine builders and then there are "Engine Builders".

Steve001

iTrader: (7)

That's the only question that bothers me. 25k rebuild every 14 - 18 months on a daily driver?

wms-racing

The shorter stroe engine will always be a better reving engine but produce less torque, its always a balance between to 2 and what you as the owner wants from the setup. I spend alot of time discussing this with my Customers, at the end of the day the engine set up and turbo choice will give a power band, and where you want that to be is your choice and only you can decide. Of all the builds I do a high compression 2.1 is superb at around 400bhp, it will spool well and rev out nicely.

wms-racing

If you read an earlier post from me, the 2.5 I built running 430 bhp for the past 20K had vitually no wear in the piston/bore and bearings, so there's no reason to think that a 400bhp engine will not last a decent amount of miles. How you look after it has a big impact of course.

Using good rods and pistons won't make the engine last longer, it will make it strong enough to take the boost, the parts that will wear out are really the big end bearings. Getting the right combination of bearing clearance, material, oil pump size/pressure and oil grade are key to preventing this.
But you can't expect an engine running 30% or more power will last as long as a standard engine. Running more power will put more strain on the parts and will wear out faster.

Turbovin

iTrader: (2)

My standard V5 STI engine didn't last longer than 35k, not exactly great. Power levels of between 330-370 hp. It's something I'm willing to accept, I will never see these cars as reliable daily drivers and therefore I also have other cars.

Dubzy

iTrader: (4)

What power has your stock engine been running at ?? I would also expect to see 100k from a stock or mildy tuned setup as theyre proven to do so but from my own experience of rebuilt engines ive never got more than 25k miles when running close to the power it was rated to. I will be more than happy to prove myself wrong this time round though.

I think a forged engine rated at 500bhp+ only run at 400bhp as you intend will last alot longer than if i run the same engine at 550bhp as i intend and to be honest i would happily stay on my stock sti motor at 400bhp.

Dubzy

iTrader: (4)

Was the 35k on the original engine or after a rebuild ??

Turbovin

iTrader: (2)

As far as I know on the original engine. But it has been driven very very hard.

Dubzy

iTrader: (4)

I think in stock form they are a very strong and reliable motor which should hit 100k no problem if treated properly, i intend to occasionally drive it hard and maybe once or twice very hard but if i drive it very very hard i would expect it to explode immediately so 35k aint bad lol...

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

I don't get why people are happy to shell out X amount of grands and we are talking £3/5k and sometimes more and only expect 25/35k from that outlay, OK it's not a fortune but it's still a lot of money to the average working man with a house and kids to pay for. I also need to be able to trust my car to take me across Europe, I sure as hell don't want to be watching the clock as it nears 25k and start thinking about getting out another couple of grand for a "re-fresh"

My opinion is that if an engine and it's components are rated to 4/500 or even 600bhp then it should be able to take that power and be driven at that power level for more than 25k that's for sure, all other things being equal.

Ok a race engine is a different kettle of fish but a daily driven car that is not seeing constant WOT for prolonged periods of time should be reliable if serviced regularly and driven with a modicum of common sense. A ten minute blast down a B road or the odd track day a year shouldn't see it needing another re-build 25k or even 50k later.

These more expensive so called better quality parts are supposed to take the hammer otherwise we may as well all take our chances up to 500bhp on standard STI internals.

If a standard Honda engine can have the tit's ragged off it for 250k then I would expect my all singing all dancing forged Subaru engine to at least be able to do less than half of that.

Again I say, otherwise what's the point.

Steve Whitehorn

iTrader: (13)

Agree....for a daily driver.
Mine are warmed up and cooled down. But driven very hard everytime I get into it, these days on track.
So I expect something to break at somepoint.

WMS mention a high compression 2.1 is a good place to be. I can vouch for that

wms-racing

I get alot of Customers asking for a 600bhp build but only want to run 400, the misconception is that it will be stronger and last longer. This is not the case, a 400bhp build can be done with low expansion pistons and run less piston clearance, this is better for an engine used as a daily driver and you want it to last for a decent milage. The pistons/ bores will wear less and consume less oil.
As ive already said, its the big end bearings that suffer the most in these engines, you can't compare a Honda or any other engine, they are not the same. You can go and spend £30K on an engine with all the very best, cough I mean most expensive parts, but it won't make the bearings/crank journals any wider.

wms-racing

I built a 2.1 running 9.0:1, it was running 20% meth and made 460/440, it was really good, quick spool and revved like a Honda!!

Dubzy

iTrader: (4)

I never thought about it like that, i presumed running less boost/ smaller turbo on the same engine would take some stress off it and therefore have an easier life and last longer.

Regarding my previous experience of engine builds, 4 rebuilds in 11 years on a ford yb (cosworth) pinto engine. As you stated mine was big end bearings 3 times out the four and 1 piston ring failure.

Dubzy

iTrader: (4)

Well ive been into Tdr (Thwaites) today and made a decision for my new build. Im going for a new 2.5 block with cdb inserts, De stroked with cosworth pistons, manely rods, acl bearings and 14mm head stud conversion. I will be adding big port jdm heads and uprated cams. Turbo choice still to be decided but will be aiming for just shy of 600 bhp

scooby2.5maz

iTrader: (16)

Dubzy

iTrader: (4)

Your partly to blame Maz, after my passenger seat ride in yours mine just isnt enough now

scooby2.5maz

iTrader: (16)

mickeymouse

Nice I take it you'll be using A.N.other ECU to manage it all???