Remap next week, noticeable difference?
#31
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
As above TMIC not required if sticking to a TD04.
RR is not as harsh as it seems, it just sounds like it as you are stood by the car (not in it).
In reality its a flat out acceleration to almost the rev limit, nothing 'new' in that for most Scooby drivers...
Don't worry if the map time is a lot quicker than previously mentioned, many mappers have suitable maps already saved for 'typically' modded cars which is the bracket you fall in to. So they load a map on and they are 80% there. Some fine tuning and you are done. If your car had major changes it would take longer.
Mapping can have issues. Usually due to pre-existing conditions or sh#t bolt on bits.
Mine was fine on the rollers, but split a top hose later on probably just 'old' but highlighted by a bit more movement in the engine bay (extra torque?), which makes sense if you think about it. Then a split in the bottom rad mounting, which was rusty and probably failed due to the same reason...
All being good you'll be looking at 285bhp with similar torque figures. In the real world it's like night and day. The car is not just quicker, but smoother, turbo kicks in earlier... You'll love it, so enjoy..
RR is not as harsh as it seems, it just sounds like it as you are stood by the car (not in it).
In reality its a flat out acceleration to almost the rev limit, nothing 'new' in that for most Scooby drivers...
Don't worry if the map time is a lot quicker than previously mentioned, many mappers have suitable maps already saved for 'typically' modded cars which is the bracket you fall in to. So they load a map on and they are 80% there. Some fine tuning and you are done. If your car had major changes it would take longer.
Mapping can have issues. Usually due to pre-existing conditions or sh#t bolt on bits.
Mine was fine on the rollers, but split a top hose later on probably just 'old' but highlighted by a bit more movement in the engine bay (extra torque?), which makes sense if you think about it. Then a split in the bottom rad mounting, which was rusty and probably failed due to the same reason...
All being good you'll be looking at 285bhp with similar torque figures. In the real world it's like night and day. The car is not just quicker, but smoother, turbo kicks in earlier... You'll love it, so enjoy..
#33
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
As above TMIC not required if sticking to a TD04.
RR is not as harsh as it seems, it just sounds like it as you are stood by the car (not in it).
In reality its a flat out acceleration to almost the rev limit, nothing 'new' in that for most Scooby drivers...
Don't worry if the map time is a lot quicker than previously mentioned, many mappers have suitable maps already saved for 'typically' modded cars which is the bracket you fall in to. So they load a map on and they are 80% there. Some fine tuning and you are done. If your car had major changes it would take longer.
Mapping can have issues. Usually due to pre-existing conditions or sh#t bolt on bits.
Mine was fine on the rollers, but split a top hose later on probably just 'old' but highlighted by a bit more movement in the engine bay (extra torque?), which makes sense if you think about it. Then a split in the bottom rad mounting, which was rusty and probably failed due to the same reason...
All being good you'll be looking at 285bhp with similar torque figures. In the real world it's like night and day. The car is not just quicker, but smoother, turbo kicks in earlier... You'll love it, so enjoy..
RR is not as harsh as it seems, it just sounds like it as you are stood by the car (not in it).
In reality its a flat out acceleration to almost the rev limit, nothing 'new' in that for most Scooby drivers...
Don't worry if the map time is a lot quicker than previously mentioned, many mappers have suitable maps already saved for 'typically' modded cars which is the bracket you fall in to. So they load a map on and they are 80% there. Some fine tuning and you are done. If your car had major changes it would take longer.
Mapping can have issues. Usually due to pre-existing conditions or sh#t bolt on bits.
Mine was fine on the rollers, but split a top hose later on probably just 'old' but highlighted by a bit more movement in the engine bay (extra torque?), which makes sense if you think about it. Then a split in the bottom rad mounting, which was rusty and probably failed due to the same reason...
All being good you'll be looking at 285bhp with similar torque figures. In the real world it's like night and day. The car is not just quicker, but smoother, turbo kicks in earlier... You'll love it, so enjoy..
#34
Scooby Regular
60? That sounds like a lot, I was only expecting to see around 260/265 in total! I'd be chuffed with an extra 60HP though
I have a 22mm Whiteline ARB fitted on the rear and have got some Godspeed grooved disks and kevlar pads waiting to go on the car
Thanks to everyone else for the comments, I'm still a little nervous though! I'll keep you posted next week...
I have a 22mm Whiteline ARB fitted on the rear and have got some Godspeed grooved disks and kevlar pads waiting to go on the car
Thanks to everyone else for the comments, I'm still a little nervous though! I'll keep you posted next week...
On the twisty stuff Id advise a 30mm spring drop , shocks can do with a bit of a helping hand too.
Otherwise even though you have done the brakes. you will still find yourself running out of road. It felt on every bend like you were tottering on the edge of a cliff with your just your finger tips.
My advice to anyone would be do the brakes tyres and suspension first.
Pirreli have a good slogan on that . Sure you will remember it.
#35
Scooby Regular
I went to a large TMIC from CX racing USA , mine has cost me some spool up response as greater internal volume still has to be filled.
You might find on the TD04 which spools nice on the STD but if you go for a larger TMIC that some of that response is lost , but the Volume of the Sti version that Matt suggests is not a huge differnence , might be ok.
Changing one at the time of Mapping is a 10 minute Job , so you might want to try a Sti IC and see what can be done at the RR. The problem about using the small WRX one is you may still get 2-3 runs in before the temperature overwhelms it . So in relality the Sti one will give you performance for longer and more reliably for hotter days.
Cooling them down with water is a good idea. As is heat wrapping / shielding the exhaust from the IC .
#36
Scooby Regular
Like I say though only get it if you fancy having a crack at 290-300!
#37
Scooby Regular
This is interesting , but what about the torque curve.
I went to a large TMIC from CX racing USA , mine has cost me some spool up response as greater internal volume still has to be filled.
You might find on the TD04 which spools nice on the STD but if you go for a larger TMIC that some of that response is lost , but the Volume of the Sti version that Matt suggests is not a huge differnence , might be ok.
Changing one at the time of Mapping is a 10 minute Job , so you might want to try a Sti IC and see what can be done at the RR. The problem about using the small WRX one is you may still get 2-3 runs in before the temperature overwhelms it . So in relality the Sti one will give you performance for longer and more reliably for hotter days.
Cooling them down with water is a good idea. As is heat wrapping / shielding the exhaust from the IC .
I went to a large TMIC from CX racing USA , mine has cost me some spool up response as greater internal volume still has to be filled.
You might find on the TD04 which spools nice on the STD but if you go for a larger TMIC that some of that response is lost , but the Volume of the Sti version that Matt suggests is not a huge differnence , might be ok.
Changing one at the time of Mapping is a 10 minute Job , so you might want to try a Sti IC and see what can be done at the RR. The problem about using the small WRX one is you may still get 2-3 runs in before the temperature overwhelms it . So in relality the Sti one will give you performance for longer and more reliably for hotter days.
Cooling them down with water is a good idea. As is heat wrapping / shielding the exhaust from the IC .
I think I lost a tiny bit of spool but it'll help top end where the TD04 becomes inefficient.
TBH funds allowing do as many mods as you can before a map as they all add up.
Even STI Pinks and a Walbro are advisable in my opinion when exceeding 280bhp, all help if you get a boost spike from a split vac pipe on an icy day...
Last edited by RS_Matt; 21 November 2014 at 02:15 PM.
#39
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I've now had 7 maps, and each time I've been nervous, in case something goes wrong and some expensive damage is done!
Its strange, I've had maps from mainly Duncan and Simon, and not a single one took more than an hour!
Although, they were all stage 1 and 2 maps.
Its strange, I've had maps from mainly Duncan and Simon, and not a single one took more than an hour!
Although, they were all stage 1 and 2 maps.
#42
Scooby Regular
Windmill
Mine are the WRX 06 Dk blues flow that same cc , I got mine on here for 100 , they take 2-3 hours to fit , depending if the wife has smaller fingers. The pump is a 20 minute change (do re-use original mesh filter), expect to pay 80 up for that. If you don't there you will end up maxed out on the injector duty cycles at close to 300bhp , and as Matt says that can be a risky low fuel/air ratio that's a . so don't ask the tuner to try push it otherwise.
Like to see a post the HP / torque curves on the TD04 when its done
it reminds me of what I miss.
If you can't afford the injectors/pump then try tapping in the case of the FPR with a hammer. Its a lazy way of upping the static fuel pressure a bit , but have a STD 43 psi spare available as its easy to overdo it and you can't take a dent out that's too deep. The STI & JDM's make around 50-55 psi you won't get as much pressure at your new higher boost without a uprated / sti fuel pump but it will give you a little more safety margin.
#44
Scooby Regular
When I had mine 2 stage maps done we spent 2-3 hours doing it , but he did say he had to work hard on mine due to character of low end , it turned out that my after market WG was opening very early. Later checked 0.25bar and I was losing ramp to max boost due to that. However If the car has a std turbo and maybe just had a 255 FP and 550 Injectors JGM would have had a passable data set to hand, which just needed minor tweaks. The second stage was really the same as the first but called for 0.2 bar less. Its a shame all that knowledge has been lost to the UK community. We will miss him.
#45
Scooby Regular
Matt said "Injectors and Walbro are advisable in my opinion when exceeding 280bhp, all help if you get a boost spike from a split vac pipe on an icy day..."
IMHO even a 1/4 tank of 95 Oct. The ECU will had nothing left to compensate the AFR. IF you see that your Injector duty cycles at 90-95% , and they likely will be for a 440 cc light blue on decat pipes + TD04 getting close to 300 bhp , then its worth paying some attention to Matt.
Windmill , Ask your tuner tell you what duty cycle he ends up with.
As a guide here most start to think about the next size Injector at 85% and certainly do change for more flow if you plan any other mods.
IMHO even a 1/4 tank of 95 Oct. The ECU will had nothing left to compensate the AFR. IF you see that your Injector duty cycles at 90-95% , and they likely will be for a 440 cc light blue on decat pipes + TD04 getting close to 300 bhp , then its worth paying some attention to Matt.
Windmill , Ask your tuner tell you what duty cycle he ends up with.
As a guide here most start to think about the next size Injector at 85% and certainly do change for more flow if you plan any other mods.
#47
Scooby Regular
Time taken depends on the state of the car.
In my case Simon took a previous map with a car that had TD05 16g and Walbro255 /550cc's the first down loads and road test were done in 30 mins , however although I was grinning already he was not full satisfied.
The extra time taken depends on the way the car responds , mine stutered briefly at low speed on a sudden full throttle application , took ages to iron it out. Then would still only reach 1.0 bar till we found out that the Aftermarket WG was opening prematurely, we adjusted pre-tension to 3mm.
All that pfaffing around takes time.
In my case Simon took a previous map with a car that had TD05 16g and Walbro255 /550cc's the first down loads and road test were done in 30 mins , however although I was grinning already he was not full satisfied.
The extra time taken depends on the way the car responds , mine stutered briefly at low speed on a sudden full throttle application , took ages to iron it out. Then would still only reach 1.0 bar till we found out that the Aftermarket WG was opening prematurely, we adjusted pre-tension to 3mm.
All that pfaffing around takes time.
Last edited by Linksfahrer; 21 November 2014 at 06:55 PM. Reason: sp
#48
Scooby Regular
I still don't know if the 2001-2005 WRX comes with 380cc, 420cc or 440cc injectors.
AF website states the former but most on here claim the latter or middle!
One thing for sure the STI at just 265bhp has an uprated Fuel pump, injectors and TMIC. And Subaru know best!
AF website states the former but most on here claim the latter or middle!
One thing for sure the STI at just 265bhp has an uprated Fuel pump, injectors and TMIC. And Subaru know best!
#50
Scooby Regular
So the STI and WRX have the same size pump? I thought the 01-05 was 130lh WRX 145lh STI.
Last edited by RS_Matt; 22 November 2014 at 05:33 PM.
#52
Scooby Regular
I think the STI is uprated but I can't find info for the 01-03 STI pump.
#53
Scooby Regular
Your correct that they are different , ( they have different Pns ). Would not like to say if the lh is exact as quote though thru the MY's.
Taken from NASIOC
2002-2005 WRX fuel pump 130 lph
2006-2007 WRX fuel pump 145 lph
2008-2009 WRX fuel pump 155 lph
2004-2007 STI fuel pump 145 lph
2008-2009 STI fuel pump 175 lph
Last edited by Linksfahrer; 22 November 2014 at 07:18 PM. Reason: sp
#54
Scooby Regular
According to SAC2564 (original Sub # WRX sti performance package)
305PS at 6k previously 265PS on std Sti engine on 97RON
Extra Key features : "High capacity fuel pump" , Recal ECU / High flow Cat / SST Exhaust
My car is a PPP SAC2565 ( original WRX # WRX Performance Package )
Key features do not include uprated pump , So I had to get the 255
#55
Scooby Regular
Perhaps someone at Subaru can check this via the VIN# although in my experience that does not always help much as the Prodrive items were added in the UK just before final delivery , even after 25 years here I can even speak dialect but still nobody has a clue what I am on about.
#57
Scooby Regular
Linksfahrer UK tour 2015
Hi Matt , dein Deutsch ist noch schlechter als meins. LOL
Leider habe ich meine Ehe Scheidung zur erst
und dann sehen wir ob Geld noch da ist.
Leider habe ich meine Ehe Scheidung zur erst
und dann sehen wir ob Geld noch da ist.
#59
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I Second that.
Windmill
Mine are the WRX 06 Dk blues flow that same cc , I got mine on here for 100 , they take 2-3 hours to fit , depending if the wife has smaller fingers. The pump is a 20 minute change (do re-use original mesh filter), expect to pay 80 up for that. If you don't there you will end up maxed out on the injector duty cycles at close to 300bhp , and as Matt says that can be a risky low fuel/air ratio that's a . so don't ask the tuner to try push it otherwise.
Like to see a post the HP / torque curves on the TD04 when its done
it reminds me of what I miss.
If you can't afford the injectors/pump then try tapping in the case of the FPR with a hammer. Its a lazy way of upping the static fuel pressure a bit , but have a STD 43 psi spare available as its easy to overdo it and you can't take a dent out that's too deep. The STI & JDM's make around 50-55 psi you won't get as much pressure at your new higher boost without a uprated / sti fuel pump but it will give you a little more safety margin.
Windmill
Mine are the WRX 06 Dk blues flow that same cc , I got mine on here for 100 , they take 2-3 hours to fit , depending if the wife has smaller fingers. The pump is a 20 minute change (do re-use original mesh filter), expect to pay 80 up for that. If you don't there you will end up maxed out on the injector duty cycles at close to 300bhp , and as Matt says that can be a risky low fuel/air ratio that's a . so don't ask the tuner to try push it otherwise.
Like to see a post the HP / torque curves on the TD04 when its done
it reminds me of what I miss.
If you can't afford the injectors/pump then try tapping in the case of the FPR with a hammer. Its a lazy way of upping the static fuel pressure a bit , but have a STD 43 psi spare available as its easy to overdo it and you can't take a dent out that's too deep. The STI & JDM's make around 50-55 psi you won't get as much pressure at your new higher boost without a uprated / sti fuel pump but it will give you a little more safety margin.
Thanks again everyone for all your help and advise, it makes for some interesting reading!
Rob.