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Old 12 December 2014, 09:09 PM
  #241  
RS_Matt
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
Utter tosh, Matt.

Newage STI, 2.0L variant, is good for 400, with just a turbo swap.

Newage WRX, with it's poxy TD04, need most of the stuff you listed.
It's not tosh at all, a moderately modded WRX is just about at it's max at 360/350 and at those power levels an STI would need serious money throwing at it to match the WRX's pace.
Old 12 December 2014, 09:22 PM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by mikeesingh
Hi Matt

my car is 882kg (950kg with me in car) and made 690bhp last time on dyno
Serious weight reduction, is yours the lightest Impreza you know of? Did you have a lot more than 690bhp when you ran the 8.83?
Old 12 December 2014, 09:24 PM
  #243  
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It is tosh though, Matt. To get a newage WRX to 360/350 needs quite a big outlay. Moderately modified isn't over 100hp over standard, IMO.

It needs turbo, injectors, up-pipe decat, possibly intercooler and remap. TD04 is maxed at 300 ish, on a good day.

Newage STI, swap the turbo and remap. Add some injectors for a bit of safety maybe, but, STI pinks are something like 565cc anyway, opposed to the 440's of the WRX.

Who needs big injectors though, 380cc's FTW.

De-spec your car, and see how far away you are from me.

Last edited by mickywrx; 12 December 2014 at 09:26 PM.
Old 12 December 2014, 09:28 PM
  #244  
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Mikee's really good at this drag racing lark, really nice bloke as well.
Old 12 December 2014, 09:47 PM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
It is tosh though, Matt. To get a newage WRX to 360/350 needs quite a big outlay. Moderately modified isn't over 100hp over standard, IMO.

It needs turbo, injectors, up-pipe decat, possibly intercooler and remap. TD04 is maxed at 300 ish, on a good day.

Newage STI, swap the turbo and remap. Add some injectors for a bit of safety maybe, but, STI pinks are something like 565cc anyway, opposed to the 440's of the WRX.

Who needs big injectors though, 380cc's FTW.

De-spec your car, and see how far away you are from me.
Trust me it costs peanuts to get both cars to 360bhp, my 360 capable turbo and injectors cost me £155!, at 360bhp the WRX has a huge advantage. An STI will need well over 400bhp to leave a WRX from the lights.
Old 13 December 2014, 12:36 PM
  #246  
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Is he still banging on about the wrx....what a case of sti envy.
12.8 at 260 bhp in my sti......can't ignore the facts!
Old 13 December 2014, 03:24 PM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by boosted
Are they? What about the stall speed on the torque converter? Is it not a bit low?
Hi there

As above pointed 2pot about the torque converter and their stall speeds,usually most of guys upgrading their Torque converter to higher stall

4EAT is not bad box when is properly build,but you will spend crazy money to get build to spec which will be reliable and price wise,anything from £1500 to £10k for Tony Rigoli box

Really depends on more factors

Thanks,Jura

Originally Posted by Maz
Only a fool would use the 4EAT transmission in standard form for dragging. Torque converter upgrade would be a prerequisite I would have thought.
Yes in standard form they will not last for long,but friend over in US running his standard box at 400whp and still on standard torque converter and car is used as drag car

But all depends on how you drive and how far you want to go,4EAT in standard form should be OK for about the 350-380bhp,beyond that,hard to say,I would say,you are risking as with every box

Thanks,Jura
Old 14 December 2014, 09:47 PM
  #248  
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Serious and maybe game changing question.

Jura I'm of the understanding torque will probably kill my box and rods when going past 350lbft on a Newage WRX. If I stayed away from driving that will superheat my intercooler and engine/oil such as b-road blasts or trackdays what kind of relatively safe horsepower will my engine be happy at for day to day driving with the odd drag run?

Could I pull off 400/330 on a SC42/SC46 running low & efficiently cooler boost?
Old 14 December 2014, 10:04 PM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by jura11
Hi there

As above pointed 2pot about the torque converter and their stall speeds,usually most of guys upgrading their Torque converter to higher stall

4EAT is not bad box when is properly build,but you will spend crazy money to get build to spec which will be reliable and price wise,anything from £1500 to £10k for Tony Rigoli box

Really depends on more factors

Thanks,Jura



Yes in standard form they will not last for long,but friend over in US running his standard box at 400whp and still on standard torque converter and car is used as drag car

But all depends on how you drive and how far you want to go,4EAT in standard form should be OK for about the 350-380bhp,beyond that,hard to say,I would say,you are risking as with every box

Thanks,Jura
I have had experience in using and modifying auto boxes for drag racing, both successfully and not so successfully!
A lot of power lost through heating up ATF, why else do you need a chuffing big oil cooler!
Old 14 December 2014, 10:21 PM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by RS_Matt
Serious and maybe game changing question.

Jura I'm of the understanding torque will probably kill my box and rods when going past 350lbft on a Newage WRX. If I stayed away from driving that will superheat my intercooler and engine/oil such as b-road blasts or trackdays what kind of relatively safe horsepower will my engine be happy at for day to day driving with the odd drag run?

Could I pull off 400/330 on a SC42/SC46 running low & efficiently cooler boost?
not with your poverty spec bottom end and gearbox, you would need sti stuff to run that bhp
Old 16 December 2014, 01:09 AM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by RS_Matt
Serious and maybe game changing question.

Jura I'm of the understanding torque will probably kill my box and rods when going past 350lbft on a Newage WRX. If I stayed away from driving that will superheat my intercooler and engine/oil such as b-road blasts or trackdays what kind of relatively safe horsepower will my engine be happy at for day to day driving with the odd drag run?

Could I pull off 400/330 on a SC42/SC46 running low & efficiently cooler boost?
Hi Matt

Yes torque usually kills the boxes or rods,have look we are running on EP3 turbo,we are making 382bhp at 15psi(1.0bar),but our torque is miserable 300lb-ft,why so low,because OE rods will snap beyond 300-320lbft,box should be OK for around 500-600bhp,but at this level I wouldn't run stock engine,although our friend running 705bhp on his stock K20

There is lots of but and if,but yes you should be OK if you will be running bellow 350lbft and running larger turbo with reasonable boost level

I know few people who run on their WRX 400bhp for several years without the issues and they're done several track days or drag runs,its really depends on more factors

Hope this help

Thanks,Jura

Originally Posted by boosted
I have had experience in using and modifying auto boxes for drag racing, both successfully and not so successfully!
A lot of power lost through heating up ATF, why else do you need a chuffing big oil cooler!
Yes agree usually what killing the autobox is heat,we are run too upgraded oil cooler on our 4EAT and we are run good oil at least,but usually what is weak on most of the 4EAT is valve body,most of them switching to manual valve body

How to say,if I would go again with 4EAT,probably I would remove this box and I would go with Powerglide box,they're probably best autoboxes and they're can be bought for really cheap,but modifying the box to Impreza can be very expensive

Thanks,Jura

Originally Posted by fat-thomas
not with your poverty spec bottom end and gearbox, you would need sti stuff to run that bhp
Hi Dan

I wouldn't be so pessimistic on this,he should be OK if he will be careful and he will changing the oil etc

Thanks,Jura
Old 16 December 2014, 09:03 AM
  #252  
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Jura, my point being that making heat is not making the car go forwards, it's wasted energy, something an auto box is good at with no direct link between engine and gearbox.
Slow gear changes can destroy clutch packs, sharpen the change and increase clamp pressures and then the car becomes horrible to drive slowly, couple that to I high stall converter and you have a very uncomfortable car to drive on the road.
Old 16 December 2014, 02:13 PM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by boosted
Jura, my point being that making heat is not making the car go forwards, it's wasted energy, something an auto box is good at with no direct link between engine and gearbox.
Slow gear changes can destroy clutch packs, sharpen the change and increase clamp pressures and then the car becomes horrible to drive slowly, couple that to I high stall converter and you have a very uncomfortable car to drive on the road.
What IS your point?:
You'd rather have a manual for strip?
You'd rather have a manual for street/strip?
Old 16 December 2014, 02:33 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by jura11
Hi Matt

Yes torque usually kills the boxes or rods,have look we are running on EP3 turbo,we are making 382bhp at 15psi(1.0bar),but our torque is miserable 300lb-ft,why so low,because OE rods will snap beyond 300-320lbft,box should be OK for around 500-600bhp,but at this level I wouldn't run stock engine,although our friend running 705bhp on his stock K20

There is lots of but and if,but yes you should be OK if you will be running bellow 350lbft and running larger turbo with reasonable boost level

I know few people who run on their WRX 400bhp for several years without the issues and they're done several track days or drag runs,its really depends on more factors

Hope this help

Thanks,Jura
Jura, you're going to cost me a lot of money!

The more I read about what causes failures and what levels, I can definitely see that there could be away around it.

I'm starting to think with my conservative driving that heat build up (which I've also read claims gearboxes) and torque can be totally taken out of the equation.

My only question now is what bhp will the pistons be happy with? would 440/340 be too much for the odd track blast or single wot public road pull in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear? (I've read 4th onwards are the main danger gears and I avoid using full throttle in those even now)
Old 16 December 2014, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 2pot
What IS your point?:
You'd rather have a manual for strip?
You'd rather have a manual for street/strip?
Manual for steer/strip. Never had a dedicated drag car, perhaps that will come eventually once I win the lottery and my children leave school
Old 17 December 2014, 10:55 AM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by boosted
Manual for steer/strip. Never had a dedicated drag car, perhaps that will come eventually once I win the lottery and my children leave school
Street/strip auto (assuming auto valve body): Don't over-do the line pressures. And mapping wise - for longevity of the clutch packs, reduce torque before the shift point.
Old 17 December 2014, 11:10 AM
  #257  
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Originally Posted by 2pot
Street/strip auto (assuming auto valve body): Don't over-do the line pressures. And mapping wise - for longevity of the clutch packs, reduce torque before the shift point.
This was on a 4.0 V8 turbo, not a wee impreza engine
Old 17 December 2014, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by boosted
This was on a 4.0 V8 turbo, not a wee impreza engine
Applies to my 6 litre small block Plymouth with 727 torqueflight, or any street/strip auto.
Old 17 December 2014, 12:17 PM
  #259  
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Originally Posted by 2pot
Applies to my 6 litre small block Plymouth with 727 torqueflight, or any street/strip auto.
Quite, we never went down the 16v V8 pushrod route. Choose an all aluminium 32v 1uzfe to turbo. Reliability has been good this season, but the auto box has brought some issues. So we have ditched the auto box and are now going full manual for next season. Cheaper and hopefully more reliable with the 600+hp
Old 29 December 2014, 04:57 PM
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Are Newage STI driveshafts longer than WRX ones? Especially 05> STIs?
Old 09 January 2015, 11:39 PM
  #261  
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Originally Posted by RS_Matt
Are Newage STI driveshafts longer than WRX ones? Especially 05> STIs?
Hi Matt

Yes New age STI driveshafts are different,they're using different diff and due this you can't fit 6speed driveshaft on the WRX

But we are run WRX driveshafts without the issue at drag strip at various bhp levels and with NOS too and we are never broken or snapped driveshaft on the drag strip or track days

You shouldn't be worried about the driveshafts,they're cheap to replace,one driveshaft cost around £25-£50 and STI cost bit more there

Hope this help

Thanks,Jura
Old 10 January 2015, 08:20 PM
  #262  
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I just meant will longer driveshafts incur higher transmission losses as I expect they will.

I'm just trying to piece together why the STI is so much slower than a WRX.
Old 10 January 2015, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RS_Matt
I just meant will longer driveshafts incur higher transmission losses as I expect they will.

I'm just trying to piece together why the STI is so much slower than a WRX.
Driveshafts do not use power at all.
CV joints at an angle however will... Read into that what you want.
Old 11 January 2015, 12:25 AM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by boosted
Driveshafts do not use power at all.
CV joints at an angle however will... Read into that what you want.
I can imagine they will to an extent and more so as length is increased. It won't be anything to compare to the box though. Box might lose STI 20bhp over the WRX and the longer driveshafts 0.1-0.5bhp?
Old 11 January 2015, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RS_Matt
I can imagine they will to an extent and more so as length is increased. It won't be anything to compare to the box though. Box might lose STI 20bhp over the WRX and the longer driveshafts 0.1-0.5bhp?
How can a shaft consume power?
The CV joints moving through an angle have friction to deal with and will consume energy. Longer shafts means less of an angle, so less energy consumption. The biggest factor would be the suspension and how low the car is (or how straight the shaft is) when it squats off the line.
Old 11 January 2015, 09:03 AM
  #266  
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Originally Posted by boosted
How can a shaft consume power?
Rotational mass.
Old 11 January 2015, 09:21 AM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by RS_Matt
Rotational mass.
Neglegable considering the speed, weight and diameter. Ie slow, light and tiny.
Old 11 January 2015, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by RS_Matt
Rotational mass.
Rotational mass will affect the moment of inertia but to consider the shaft on it's own is a folly. The wheel/tyre mass, wheel/tyre width, brake disk mass will all affect the moment of inertia to a greater extent.
Furthermore if I'm not mistaken the STI shafts are actually lighter than the WRX. Thus irrespective of length they reduce the moment of inertia. Therefore reducing drivetrain losses.
Old 11 January 2015, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Maz
Rotational mass will affect the moment of inertia but to consider the shaft on it's own is a folly. The wheel/tyre mass, wheel/tyre width, brake disk mass will all affect the moment of inertia to a greater extent.
Furthermore if I'm not mistaken the STI shafts are actually lighter than the WRX. Thus irrespective of length they reduce the moment of inertia. Therefore reducing drivetrain losses.
I know it's slight but I'm looking at accumulative factors. Why are they lighter? Stronger (but lighter) material for strength or to reduce already heavy drivetrain losses?

Last edited by RS_Matt; 11 January 2015 at 11:07 AM.
Old 11 January 2015, 11:26 AM
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You know everything about why the WRX is a better, faster, stronger car yet you still asking the obvious questions, Do the maths on the numbers then try and work it out...obviously in private,
Its not all about 400m runs, Chuck some corners in and its a different ball game, but then you cant be that naive to think to think otherwise can you?

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