Hi everyone.

I have my Canon 400D for just over a year now. Ever since I have had it, something never seemed quite right, I though that the shots should be a hell of a lot better when you have just spent £600 on a camera, memory card and bag. Anyway, I just put it down to the person behind the camera as some shots were not too bad. However, it was always in the back of my mind that the pictures never were very sharp.

This weekend, I made my self a light box, with the help of a 100 + page post on the Canon digital photography forum. Here are some of the results (did not take loads of shots due to having to pack up after a day)
Actually, one more thing, the amount of crap on the sensor/lens is terrible (fair enough, I was shooting at up to F30) I am guessing that most of it is from the lens as the 400D should shake most of it off the sensor!?
Click on immage if you want to be able to see it!


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_0005.jpg (http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_0005.jpg)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/torchcrop.jpg (http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/torchcrop.jpg)

File Name IMG_0005.JPG
Camera Model Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 8
Av( Aperture Value ) 36.0
Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
Exposure Compensation +2
ISO Speed 100
Lens EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Focal Length 55.0 mm
Image Size 3888x2592
Image Quality Fine


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_0008.jpg (http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_0008.jpg)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/sharplenscrop.jpg (http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/sharplenscrop.jpg)

File Name IMG_0008.JPG
Camera Model Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL
Shooting Mode Aperture-Priority AE
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/80
Av( Aperture Value ) 5.6
Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
Exposure Compensation +2
ISO Speed 1600
Lens EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Focal Length 49.0 mm
Image Size 3888x2592
Image Quality Fine


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_0005_1.jpg (http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_0005_1.jpg)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/lenscrop.jpg (http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/lenscrop.jpg)

File Name IMG_0005_1.JPG
Camera Model Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL
Shooting Mode Manual Exposure
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 5
Av( Aperture Value ) 22.0
Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
ISO Speed 100
Lens EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Focal Length 49.0 mm
Image Size 3888x2592
Image Quality Fine


from what I can see, the lens cap picture with a fast shutter speed is not so bad. So, from, what I know, the camera is either moving on the tripod, or (I'm not sure if this is possible) either the sensor is moving something like 0.0001mm or the lens is moving, the one thing I can say, is that the focusing ring on the lens does seem to wobble about, but only if you move it, it does not sort of rattle.

Thankyou for reading such a long post, and I am thankfull for any advice given.

Scott.

What Lens is it

You could try Mirror Lock Up if shooting on a tripod and fast shutter speeds, use this when taking shots of the moon otherwise the camera vibrates, and you can see it visibily shaking in the viewfinder when focussing too because of being on full zoom for the moon

You will see dust at f30, so get yourself a rocket blower if you dont already have one, and give it good blast upside down to get rid of the dust

Best way to check for dust is to take a shot of the sky in daylight, at f22 or thereabouts, load the shot into photoshot, and set autolevels

All the dark patches will be dust spots, I do mine every once in a while especially if changing lenses a lot

Some Lenses also can front or back focus, on the Canon forums there are quite a few threads linking to focus test charts you can download and print out

I have found the best thing is just to take a shot of newspaper print or book text and zoom in to see how sharp or not it is

18-55 kit lens. will order a rocket blower me thinks - where is the cheapest place to buy? I will take a picture of some sort of print in a minute.

thanks for ooba quick reply,
Scott.

I have the same kit lens too

I got my Rocket Blower from Ebay, about 10 quid I think it cost as it is a genuine one

DSLR's do get dust in them, mine was full of them from brand new, which did surprise me as it was sealed in the box, and these were visible at f4/f5 :eek:

When you do get one, stick your camera on your tripod pointing down, take the lens off, and go into the custom functions and switch sensor cleaning on and then carefully with the rocket blower give it a few blasts with the end pointing towards the sensor

then take another shot of the sky and check in photoshop again

Might need a couple of goes with it, I did that and had to get a sensor cleaning kit as well and wipe the sensor with the swabs

I use Nikon so can't answer specifically but most DSLRs have some sort of in camera processing and various settings as I'm sure you know. Most shots need sharpening in a 3rd party program but those pics do look pretty soft. Have you tried to shoot in RAW?

Have you tried a reset on the camera to default settings? Even still - it should not be as soft as that (even on the kit lens)

Scotty, from what you have posted, there is nothing wrong with your camera or lens.

Lack of sharpness is due to camera-shake (very obvious in the last pic) and diffraction - the inevitable effect of very small apertures. There is also evidence of flare diluting the contrast, caused by having too much light flying around in your light box. Black out the area immediately outside the subject frame with black card, and always use a lens hood.

The dust is on the sensor, not the lens. Keep your lenses clean of course, but don't lose sleep over it - it won't effect the image. No sensor cleaning system is perfect and, if you look for it, you will find dust specs even on new cameras. I use a Rocket Blower and avoid shooting smaller than f/11 if possible. I have yet to experience dust problems but when I do, I'll get an Arctic Butterfly on the job.

I don't recommend shooting newspapers etc to check sharpness, as field curvature is likely to give you soft corners which will not be evident in real 3D subjects. Shoot a distant subject to avoid this, eg number plate or road sign.

Cheers,

Richard.

so, the overall oppinion is that the fact these shots are quite frankly rubbish, is not down to camera error?
Phew,
Scott.

Richard, I only shoot text etc as a quick test, as thesedays its too dark and cold and wet outside :lol1:

Other than that I have used the focus test charts, but to be honest after a touch of USM my pictures are relatively sharp :)

I *had* to clean my sensor as brand new out of the box it was really bad at f4 very very visible that a rocket blower 3 or 4 times wasn't enough to shift them, so had to get a sensor cleaning kit

so, the overall oppinion is that the fact these shots are quite frankly rubbish, is not down to camera error?
Phew,
Scott.

Nope, it's just technique which has let you down in a number of areas.

Just a note on camera-shake - in this case it's most likely mirror-slap judging by your shutter speeds which shows up most between the 1/20sec and 1/8sec range. At faster speeds, the exposure is too short for mirror-slap to be obvious, and at longer speeds the camera has time to settle after the initial 'shock' so that it is perfectly still for the majority of the exposure, masking the effect. Just set the mirror lock-up function and release the shutter via the self-timer :)

Richard.

Richard, I only shoot text etc as a quick test, as thesedays its too dark and cold and wet outside :lol1:

Other than that I have used the focus test charts, but to be honest after a touch of USM my pictures are relatively sharp :)


LOL Sonic. I don't blame you - weather's been horrible. And, to be honest, text can be a good test if you know what you're doing, but shooting a newspaper with a wide-angle zoom from a couple of feet distance can lead to suicidal thoughts when you've just spent the best part of a grand on some nice L glass :lol1:

Likewise the popular focus test which is again conducted at an artifically close distance and is extremely critical. Only relevant to macro lenses IMHO and most people use manual focus and a small aperture for macro anyway :D

Regards,

Richard.

S-K - make sure that you aren't using the IS function on the lens when the camera/lens is mounted on a tripod, if you aren't using the correct IS setting then this can cause the lens to behave abnormally, ie. actually inducing blur rather than canceling it. You should be able to turn the IS off altogether, as its not necessary on a tripod. That may be an explaination, although if the IS is already off, then one step back.

Otherwise, I echo the comments above. Set your selftimer to 2secs (or whatever you like) to ensure the camera isn't being jolted as you press the shutter button - the lenscap is unlikely to run away in that time :D.

Look at adjusting the levels of your pics in photoshop to increase the contrast, increased contrast will give an apparant increase in sharpness in your final pics, although not so much as to lose detail.

Have you noticed any problems with your everyday shooting, or specifically with this assignment - post up some of the others that you feel don't make the mark, there might be a pattern emerging, either in the way you are working, or problem with your kit.

Gareth

If you've got a decent printer and paper, give this one a go
Nikon D70 Focus Chart (http://focustestchart.com/chart.html)

scroll down for instructions and what results mean.

If you've got a decent printer and paper, give this one a go
Nikon D70 Focus Chart (http://focustestchart.com/chart.html)

scroll down for instructions and what results mean.

That's one of the test charts I don't like ;) :D It's just too close for real world relevance - the author even warns to check that your lens is capable of focusing that close before you start! Then prepare to send all your kit back to the manufacturer for re-calibration because the focus is 2mm out at full aperture :rolleyes: I don't dispute the methodology, just the relevance except for macro.

Gareth, your point about switching off IS is a good one (except that I don't think Scott's lens has got it). Out of interest, I did some longish exposures with my 100-400mm, with tripod but IS on. Sure got some very wierd effects :lol1:

Richard.

Here are a few pictures that are not very good. I only had access to my parents computer to use photobucket, and that is the only folder of mine on there. There are a few more pictures that are not very good, I have recently started to notice a few more, I also think that it is not so common on my Sigma 70-300 lens, I think this may be due to the fact that when I use it, it is usually on AI Servo mode, so less likley to just be out of focus.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_6244.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_7045.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_7012.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_7000.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_6998.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_6994.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_6983.jpg

Thanks for all help,
Scott.

Scott, the indoor car shots look very difficult due to the lighting conditions. There is lots of glare and unknown/wierd colour temperatures which upset the colour balance. I'm not sure a polariser would help due to the multiple lighting angles in exhibition halls.

Don't be too disheartened, such shots would give the Pro's some headaches ;)

When you go past f/8 or so, depending on the lens, the image will gradually become less and less good due to diffraction. For ages I was wondering why many f/20 or f/16 images were lacking clarity, even on L series lenses then tried f/8, f/11 etc and problem solved.

I wasn't sure whether Scotts lens has IS or not - I thought it did - blame warehouse express for listing it as an IS model :rolleyes: - still worth a mention. :)

Its difficult to tell on the shots on screen, a few look a little back focused, but not much, as CW mentions there are difficult lighting conditions, I think you've done very well. Again you were probably on a relatively long shutter speed and probably at maximum aperture - conditions that test any lens and photographer.

One thing I thought I'd mention, as this really bugs me - I'm sure you're not guilty here - is when I see a photographer grasping the camera with both hands (as you see people with compact cameras doing), rather than using the left hand to support the lens (with the bottom of the lens cupped by the palm of the hand). It improves stability no end as opposed to just holding the camera with both hands or holding the lens as you would a pair of binoculars.

Gareth

Please try to keep up Gareth ;) :D The (very new) Canon EF-S 18-55mm kit lens has IS but not Scott's, I think.

Very much agree with how to hold and brace a camera. Such a simple thing. I reckon that most spoiled pictures are the result of camera-shake, yet many folks are quick to blame the lens or poor AF. IS helps a lot of course, but then people wonder why they get subject blur at 1/15sec :rolleyes: :lol1:

Richard :)

Isnt it the 17-55 that has IS or am I confused too :D

Scott is your Sigma 70-300 the DG APO version? if so I have that lens, and for the money its a pretty good lens

Richard I know most of my poorer shots are complety down to the I hold and brace the camera, and sometimes I start to blame my kit until I realise I am trying to hand hold 1/60 @ 300mm without movement :lol1:

exposure compensation +2 won't help either.

I would tend to keep the focus in the one shot mode unless you're shooting moving subjects as the focus may hunt and on cheaper lenses which do not focus as fast, the chances of a static shot being out of focus is higher.

Richards point about how to hold the camera is a good one, I often use the neck strap, twist it a couple of times and then put my right arm through the lower loop and brace it around my shoulder. Holding the camera is more than just hands, you can also position your feet in different ways to aid stability.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_6244.jpg (http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/scoobykid/IMG_6244.jpg)







Thanks for all help,
Scott.

Also the composition in this shot is particularly bad, you have missed the Lancia behind altogether and shot this old Cortina:nono:

Scott,

To reinforce what's been said above and to add a bit,

Use "AI Servo" focus for moving objects only and "one shot" for static objects. Never use AI Focus - there is a very good reason why Canon doesn't have AI focus on the 1 series bodies.

Try just using the centre focus point only - don't let the camera choose where to focus.

Unless you are looking to maximise depth of field at the expense of sharpness, on the lenses you have don't set the aperture to f11 or less (a numerically higher number) Your lenses are probably optimal around f5-6 to f8.

To avoid camera shake, either keep your shutter speeds higher or use a tripod (mirror lock if speeds are very low)

Those indoor shots need at least a decent flash gun and some exposure compensation/white balance adjustment.

Of course, it is possible that your body and or lenses are also back or front focusing, so tru this easy test.

Nevermind the focus charts, but get 3 pebbles, two light and a dark one. Place them on a plain, light, uncluttered background outside, in good light about 2 inches apart with the dark one in the middle. (your AF system works on contrast - hence the dark pebble, light background. At a shallow angle of not more than 45 degrees, focus on the centre pebble with the three in a line away from you. Use not less that 1/1000 of a second shutter speed and a wide aperture.

Take various shots from different distances from say 5 feet away to 15 feet away and see if the centre pebble is in good focus and that the front one (front focus) and back one (back focus) are not.

Charts are all well and good, but start with something real world and simple. In addition, many of the charts are badly constructed for accurate results.

If your lenses nail the focus on the centre pebble, and they are sharp enough, its technique/conditions that are the problem.

If the centre pebble is on the focus plain, but is not at all sharp - you may have image quality issues with your lenses.

HTH

ps - cool torch :thumb:

Am I being hypercritical but is white balance a bit off?
I'm a beginner and not being critical just interested in views from the more experienced members.
Like the photo contents, keep posting

Am I being hypercritical but is white balance a bit off?
I'm a beginner and not being critical just interested in views from the more experienced members.
Like the photo contents, keep posting

Yes, on the indoor shots especially. I tend to shoot raw under artificial light thus allowing adjustment in processing, rather than try and set the white balance "just so", especially in changeable lighting conditions.

Thanks for all the replies people.
Just a quick point about holding the camera, I don't hold it like a compact, although I do get anoyed when people try and look at the screen, and press the zoom buttons to zoom, and then tell me the camera is crap becaus 'you have to turn it and look through the whole' pfft!!!

Cheers,
Scott.

in answer to your original question - is it broke? Do you give it pocket money?

nope!
Scott.

nope!
Scott.