I expect this has been asked before but

1: Any point on a road car (no trackdays)?

2: Do they really work?

3: What does it do the geometry set up?


Car is a 93wrx with coilovers (unknown make soon to be changed to STI5/6 suspension), uprated rear droplinks.

Another quickie what are the Prodrive geometry settings for a classic (car has late model 16s the five spoke ones) and (may be a stupid question) are they any good.

Cheers

i'd love this all answered too. the first thing to do maybe to research on the internet how camber, caster and toe wheel adjustments affect a cars handling. Caster being the main objective of the ALK to improve grip and to cancel out a bit of understeer. i think, adding negative caster makes the car/wheels dip forward slightly, hence cancelling out a bit of front end lift

1 - hell yes
2 - hell yes
3 - not sure lol


they have a very large effect and for the cost are well worth doing even on road cars

1 - hell yes
2 - hell yes
3 - not sure lol


they have a very large effect and for the cost are well worth doing even on road cars

Nice simple answers:thumb:

I presume you've done the mod or had it done, i just simply want to lessen the understeer (does it increase oversteer?)

They will ease off understeer and the car is nicely improved.
to remove understeer you need several more radical mods, but the ALK is a Good Move.
You must re-align afterfitting.

They will ease off understeer and the car is nicely improved.
to remove understeer you need several more radical mods, but the ALK is a Good Move.
You must re-align afterfitting.

If i get it fitted and get the geometry done do i just get them to do standard geometry?
I wouldn't want the understeer completely removed just reduced.

Cheers

I applaud your approach to this as a road car!

The Sti V6 suspension (any Sti suspension IMHO) is really nice for all conditions.
On the road a bit of understeer is ok, safe and predictable with good control.

The understeer will ease off, and a good alignment job will work wonders done by the right shop! Stock/Prodrive settings can be improved on.

Treat yourself at the same time to some camber bolts to allow the technician freedom of adjustment to get the ideal setting.

The car will be in a different level esp in the dry, yet still wife/girlfriend friendly.

Cheers 911 now another question (sorry) what are the camber bolts?

And another one do you have any recommendations of geometry settings (one that will give a compromise between good grip and not wear the tyres out too quickly) or is it a case of try one and see it if suits me.

thanks

The camber bolts substitute for the stock adjust bolt in each strut/hub.
They give far more camber adjustment, especially in the rear.

A road geometry need not be too dramatic, but roughly:

1.5 deg neg camber front and rear
Zero toe at the front and 1mm toe in at the rear.

Some will express a different view maybe, but that worked for me at 'your stage'.

I ended up at nearly 3 deg neg etc etc etc in the end to race. Tyre wear was not an issue, just handling.
You need to find a good alignment technician who knows what he is doing. It is critical.

Cheers for that 911 i knew you would come up with an answer:thumb:

When you say good technician, i normally take mine to the local Protyre, surely if i give them the geometry you've suggested that would be fine wouldn't it?

My two penneth !

The ALK makes the biggest difference to MY car on small roundabouts with lots of camber... before as I accelerated ( whilst straight-lining it - late at night obviously !) the front would lift and understeer would set in (ARGH !).

After fitting the ALK the car doesn't pick it's nose up and understeer anymore, just seems to have loads more grip, cornering and traction.

HTH

DunxC

P.S. treat her to a Whiteline adjustable rear anti-roll bar to kill the understeer, or give you oversteer :) depending on the setting.

Increasing the caster angle is the single most important aspect of the Impreza's geometry if you want to dial out it's inherent understeer.

Standard Impreza runs 3 degrees or thereabouts, I run 6.5 :D

http://www.mocomracing.com/dbimages/MocomRacing6degcastor800.JPG

ALK will add approximately 0.5 degrees of positive caster, Noltec top mounts will add approximately 2 degrees.

In a nutshell your adding static negative camber to increase grip in a turn. but this will decrease grip under braking.

A small caster angle adds minimal camber as the steering angle increases, this is dynamic camber, by increasing the caster angle first and therefore increasing dynamic camber you can run far less static camber maximising straightline stability, grip under braking and tyre life. :smug:

Cheers for the info guys:thumb:

Thanks for the explaination !

DunxC

myblackwrx:

Mocom is one of the 'Technician who knows what they are doing' types IMHO to get the best of the parts you have.

The more parts modified does not really mean the better the car, but perhaps the more focused you can make it for your use of it.

Eventually you will end up with everything if you want the best result.

To everyone reading:

The more caster I added the 'duller' the suspension became which i am very used to now, but drove 3 Imprezas all with stock top mounts on a sprint track, and the steering was much nicer.

The understeer was hillarious mind.

One of the owners drove my hillclimb car on the slicks and was flabbergasted at the difference and the way it could be thrown at the track with confidence.

Awesome cheers 911:thumb: