Im after replaceing the somewhat tired std components with poly items does any one have any reccomendations of which one to get and where from?


ta.
Stu

Power Flex in a road or race spec, mine are purple in colour which I think are road spec.
You can get to them via Google but many people sell them.

You could try Alyn at www.asperformance.com

All the responses ive had so far from the companies themselves have been very poor indeed!!!!!!!
Most just say look at the website (which is usually poor) no ideas on quantities etc, they just list individuals???

Yeah already sent them an email, just waiting a response.

thanks

Alyn is rock solid.
You can get full chassis sets from RC Developments (where mine came from 3 years ago) or Demon Tweeks (expensive) and several others. Thet advertise in Jap Performance mag and all the Classic Car type mags.

There ate a lot of bushes to be changed if you do the full monte. Will take you about a weekend to be 'rubber-free'

I'm having this done in the new year, will workout between £400 to £500 rougly to get everything done but will be worth the effort.

cheers fellas.

I should add:

Do the rear suspension / diff subframe bushes AND the rear diff bushes (the 2 close together above the diff rear cover). A lot of rear wheel steer can come from that area!

Please also consider new OE rubber bushes. Everyone bangs on about poly this and that but forget what a new car on fresh rubber feels like.

The downside of poly is the awful squeaks and cracks when they dry out (and they do). Graham lubes his bushes often IIRC but I doubt others will want to do the same. Poly is designed to be stiff in one direction IIRC and there are also undesirable qualities too when in suspension applications.

It may pay you to read up on the subject and not just take SN's word for it (SN says its great so it must be etc).

Yeah, i am considering std ones but reckon the cost will be astronomical (not priced as yet)

Floyd is right.
I do regularly maintain all the suspension bushes as part of a regular maintenance on my road hillclimb car.

The pivot designs are totally different in the rubber verses poly bushes.

Rubber (read OEM / Group N) are solid, and as the suspension moves through it's travel, the rubber is placed in torsional shear so the pivots act as individual springs. There are NO moving surfaces.
Downside is rubber moves under load and so you can say the geometry then is variable. You can argue that 'so what' in a car weighing 1.25 Tonne on wobbly road tyre walls (etc).

The Poly bush is a true pivot, with sliding surfaces and so is very prone to very high friction forces that will try to 'lock' the suspension in any position it fancies if left unlubricated. (hence my routine).

Up side though is considerably more precise geometry control, particularly good when that lardy 1.25 Tonne is suffling about on race tyres with mega stiff walls (like on my Hillclimber).

Poly bushes are a compromise (of course) and real fast race cars will have rose joints everywhere for precision and 'zero' friction...
Downside is they will kill the car on the road, chatter you to near death and be very prone to damage. Oh, they will need replacing regularly and so on.

However, for those with good top mounts you are already on spherical bearings, and mine are great after 3 years but I do place a drop of engine oil onto the bearings every month the car is raced....

I feel you can benefit from Poly bushes if you really lean on the car, and I suggest that that cannot be reached unless on a track (of any kind).

Poly on a road car? Yes if it floats your boat, but very nice on a track car driven on the road to the track.

Anyway, a bit of fun out of the car!