Hi, can anyone help?

My garage roof needs replacing. At present it is tiles (asbestos?) on timber frame, construction is brick.

The timbers are rotten through and obviously the ? asbestos needs to go. What sort of spec should I be looking at? It needs to be good for 10 years or longer and keep the place 100% dry

Many thanks

Thank you for your email, based on the information you have sent us we now quote for the manufacture and supply of 5 No Polyester Coated on Galvanised Steel Box Profile Roofing Sheets 5Mtrs long x 1000mm cover to include fasteners and colour caps to fix sheets to Timber Purlins. Total Price: £292.25 + vat Price is delivered to Swindon, Wilts. Avaqilability: Approx 10 - 14 working days. If you have any queries or wish to order, please contact us, email or phone 01792 893985.


I tried these - good price - unfortunately I used some other crap from wickes!!!

I'm in the same boat but er, i have not actually got a roof anymore.
You can see it on google earth - god its embarrasing

It is a flat roof btw, what woudl i be looking at for materials and possibly labour.

cheers:thumb:

All my joists are intact its just the actual roof that has rotted away

I forgot to mention the garage can be seen from the street and so can't look horrible.

Boner have you got any pics of the stuff you're talking about?

Anybody got any other suggestions as to spec ie asphalt options etc

Thanks

Take the asbestos slates off whilst wearing a respirator. Need to get a load of builders bags (stronger) put the asbestos slate in the bags.

First bag needs to be taped at top and then another bag needs to go on the other way round and then taped. need 2 bags for asbestos. Local council tip should dispose of free of charge.

Need to use 4x2 tanalised timbers for the frame.

Then plywood is roofing ply, marine ply can be used but is very expensive. we use 3/4 thick ply.

Then apply either torchon felt or bitumen.

Bitchumin.... wet the garage floor so if any excess bitchimun comes through it wont stick to your floor.

Use a rubberoid felt

3 layers of underlay bitchimum on each layer and then a top coat. make sure you stagger the joints of each layer.

then you need to attach drips and this is the difficult part....

If you fancy having a go yourself give us a ring and we'll talk you through the drips.. Home (http://www.barrynobleroofing.co.uk)



Use solar reflective paint on the final layer, dont use chippings.

claire

Ok good advice but for a total numpty like me is it big bucks to have someone to do it or is it relativly cheap?

depends on size of roof chief.... last one we did basic size roof was around 800 thats with a ten year guarrantee

Correct me if am wrong, but am sure that you are not allowed to remove asbestos yourself nowadays it has to be a registered contractor. I know that our local council WILL NOT accept it in any shape or form. Check with your local council Building Dept they will keep you right.

depends on size of roof chief.... last one we did basic size roof was around 800 thats with a ten year guarrantee


BTW 3/4's of my roof i have taken off, and it is not asbestos.

would this affect the price at all????

YOu would have to get someone to look at it Chief? Where you based?

Thanks gias. Slightly confused though.I'm not doing it myself but want to make sure whoever does it makes it a good job. Can I go through the steps with you?

1) Timber frame

2) Then ply over the top

Now I get confused. Are you saying alternating layers of bit' and felt?

How do you make sure water doesn't settle on it, as it will become a flat roof won't it?

Also how do you seal the edges where the roof meets the brickwork to make sure water doesn't seep in here?

Many thanks for your help

Are you a girl as the username suggests?

Thanks gias. Slightly confused though.I'm not doing it myself but want to make sure whoever does it makes it a good job. Can I go through the steps with you?

1) Timber frame

2) Then ply over the top

Now I get confused. Are you saying alternating layers of bit' and felt?

How do you make sure water doesn't settle on it, as it will become a flat roof won't it?

Also how do you seal the edges where the roof meets the brickwork to make sure water doesn't seep in here?

Many thanks for your help

Are you a girl as the username suggests?

point one .. timber then ply on top

point two... alternate layers of bitc and felt stagger the joints...

point three.. roof should have a slight pitch on it so water runs off

point four... seal edges with bitc and felt drips..

point five... yep GIRL in a scoob :thumb:

Thanks gias :)

We had what was thought to be an asbestos roof which leaked all aover the place. We had to get a council bloke up to test the material before we could skip it as asbestos needs disposing off properly.
It was found to be concrete in the end so a skip was ok to get rid of it.

we replaced the roof with metal roof sheet panels which wont crack but did drip a lot in the cold due to condensation.
I've now used some membrane under the panels and also some foil backed insulation panels to stop this.

Rip the flat roof off and build a pitched roof. Failing that, a lean to both with felt and slates. A lot better than a flat felt roof that can leak and rot the ply underneath.



Damien

Very confused now!

Got a quote from a general builder (done some work for my sister). He said to do the following

1) New timber frame

2) Double batten

3) Felt

4) Tiles

5) Lead flashing (?sp)

Spoke to another builder friend of mine (who built my extension and is excellent) and he said that as my roof will only have a slight pitch, tiles are no good as they will allow water to run back up them.

Can anyone help please?:wonder:

Thanks