I get the feeling that my car is lifting a rear wheel during hard cornering..!

The other day the rear almost felt like it skipped during a hard turn in, the road surface was quite pock marked so maybe the inner rear tyre skipped across this..?

22mm ARB on hardest setting, which I generally like (full T20 setup with 22mm front ARB- hence why I like rear at stiffest)..:norty:

You often see hatches (well sorted ones anyhow..!) cocking a rear wheel, just wondering if this is a good or bad thing..!

J:)

dont think it an issue all the BTCC car lift a rear wheel sounds a sweet setup car 2 me

Its bad unless you have a plated rear diff

Not so bad with 4wd, back in the 90's I had a MKII Golf GTI that "cocked" about 6 inches.... I only realised when a friend told me ! Did wonder what the noise was tho' :norty:

Dunx

P.S. Have picture of mine on track with daylight showing.... :nono:

The more I've thought about it the more I think this particular incident was down to the very rough road surface and the back end skipping across it.

Need to do a bit more investigating..:D

My mates 1.8 16v clio used to do it all the time!

It wont matter in a FWD because the driven wheels are still on the ground. With a 4WD you will loose drive without a plated diff and hence forward motion. ;-)

My old MG ZS was very firm, theres a side road near me that goes up a steep hill, iff I went round it about 15mph it would lift the rear wheel at least 6 inches.. Was obscene!

my Sti does it on T25 suspension too

see the pick of my only track day this year! :(

http://www.scoobysmacs.co.uk/ibin/AVC_2668A.jpg


hehe

^^^ I like that, noce pic..;)

It wont matter in a FWD because the driven wheels are still on the ground. With a 4WD you will loose drive without a plated diff and hence forward motion. ;-)
I thought the rear diff was a LSD and so power would be applied to the wheel with the grip.

True.

The stock viscous LSD in WRX/UK turbo isn't stiff enough to stop you loosing quite a lot of drive, a plated AM or Sti diff is....

Simon

That is certainly true. I hillclimbed on my stock Sti v3 visc for years, fitted a plated diff from API and the traction change is very noticable. Subaru did all these changes for a good reason!
I think that is why starting with a Typre R or better is a wise move. I am obviously not wise so doing it the hard way..

And it needn't break the bank, I just got a nearly new Cusco R160 plated diff off ebay with the right FDR for £80. (OK I was lucky, but it can be done, lost of Brats/L-series have subaru OE plated R160 rear diffs, you can get them for about £50-60 and get them rebuilt with the right ratio...)

Simon