Some pics from RAF Valley and Red Arrows at Hoylake

Still getting used to camera(Nikon D40 & Nikon 55-200VR Lens)Settings on Auto.Conditions were overcast until the Red Arrows had finished and then it brightened up!!Same at RAF Valley!!
Still hope to get some decent photos from The Nurburgring next week and going to Canada the week after,so hopefully some good ones from Niagra Falls as well!!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/5fad07ac.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/5fad07ac.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/9a27b6fa.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/9a27b6fa.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/6ae5ae4c.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/6ae5ae4c.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/20c7a0bf.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/20c7a0bf.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/09275e08.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/09275e08.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/9a345091.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/9a345091.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/33bb7674.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/Hoylake%202007/33bb7674.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley001-1.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley001-1.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley043-1.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley043-1.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley076-1.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley076-1.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley098-1.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley098-1.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley028-1.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley028-1.jpg)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley029-1.jpg (http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/pj2886lfc/RAF%20Valley/valley029-1.jpg)

Hmmmm... not sure if you want (hopefully constructive) comments or not - but I'll pitch in with some that may help!

Doesn't look like a bad start - I'm assuming that you've recently bought the D40 and are reasonably new to 'proper' photography. However, I'd improve what you've taken by bearing in mind the following:

1. Don't always frame with the subject bang in the centre. The boats on the beach look a bit too clinical in this respect, for example. The Reds would be better framed with lead aircraft at the edge of the frame, with the smoke across the width (or diag or whatever) for another. If you're aware of the 'rule of thirds' then try and use it - if not, google it... Some cropping could help what you have here.

2. Just about every shot looks quite underexposed. I seem to recall this is often a Nikon trait, so learn to use the histogram display and adjust any automatic exposure levels accordingly using exposure compensation. Try a bit of post-processing (shooting RAW helps in this respect) and auto-levels the images above and see what jumps out! Boost saturation a bit as well...

2a. More general rule concerning the above is, don't expect (probably ever!) images to come out of a dSLR as perfectly processed (possibly the wrong expression there - as 'vibrant' is possibly better) as they would out of a cheap compact... The dSLRs are usual set up to not sharpen images, use neutral saturation and usually look pretty 'flat' straight from the camera - as post processing is usually expected. Make sure you do so to get the best from your images. Photoshop Elements is good, CS/2/3 is better...

3. The last two shots, of the helicopter could really do with a slower shutter speed to avoid the 'frozen rotor' look. Ideally, with a helicopter, you're looking for a sharp body and a blurred disk where the rotors are. Often not easy!

Please don't take my comments as being anything but help and pointers... someone, sometime told me all of the above when I was learning - and I'm just passing it on.

Hopefully it's useful.... if not, ignore me! ;)

Shades

Edited to show examples of mine (practicing, preaching, etc.)

Reds (shown framed as taken):

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mrshades/red.jpg

and a helicopter (cheating slightly as I'm directly in line with the thing, so rotors are on the same plane):

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mrshades/heli.jpg

2 mins in photoshop (as an example) gives you this

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q243/rotdog/33bb7674adjusted.jpg

the weather was against you (nothing like clear blue sky) - great advice from shades above :thumb:

Very good advice and hopefully well taken.

Getting correct exposure is difficult, I shoot in raw often due to the fact that I can post process afterwards with exposure comp, shadow filling and highlight filling. I use a Canon 20d and find that it underexposes consistently with all metering methods. I tend to shoot half to one stop below what the meter is telling me and almost never blow out highlights. Again raw compensates in some way from my lack of experience.

Couple of comments:

Be aware of the context - aircraft against a bright sky will normally be a tad dark / shilouetted. Dial in a little positive exposure compensation. Personally I think devildog's version is way OTT, flat, and horribly posterised (no offence!)

Where possible, shoot down sun so the aircraft are lit as well as the sky (technically reducing the dynamic range in the image).

With a D40 (which I believe has the same AF system as my D70), lock the centre AF point, and accept the centred composition. Crop later for composition.

** the above may seem heresy; generally I say get it right in camera. However, the nature of the a/f system is such that it's a necessary evil - the only cross type sensor is the centre one, and it's difficult to hold the outer sensors on position, and even when you do, they're a bit dim-witted.

Better a sharp starting image cropped for composition, than a perfectly composed blur.

Lastly, as goes exposure, if you can cope with shooting raw, it gives you a lot more room to recover to a decent exposure later.

HTH.

Thought I'd add the following; taken with a (now) aging D70 with a sigma lens.


http://www.sw-projects.co.uk/imgstore/DSC_4845-01.jpg


http://www.sw-projects.co.uk/imgstore/DSC_4802-01.jpg


http://www.sw-projects.co.uk/imgstore/DSC_4774-01.jpg