Has anyone fitted the front 'HardRace' drop links from the CDF Racing GB to a newage WRX (bugeye)?

These ones:
http://www.hardrace.com/images/product/pro_200706112130540.jpg

If so do you have any tips and photos, looking to do it at the weekend.

Thanks
S!

Simple task.
Gain access to the front suspension by correct jacking-up/axle stands.

WD40 the old links and remove the bolts, and assuming you are to re-use them clean all rust off the bolts.

Lightly grease the side faces of the new links and slide/wriggle the new ones into place.
Fit bolts finger tight + nuts.

Lower the car to the ground and roll it back and forth a few times to settle the suspension to road level as it normally would be. Gey under the car and nip the nuts up tight to about 40 Lbft torque.
Do not distort the wishbone mountings etc.

Why did you not get Whiteline ones?

Graham.

Thanks Graham,

It was a job lot and they where a good price. I'm not into racing/tracking the car so it was the case of replacing things as the cars now 6yrs old. I will see how I get on with these and maybe change to whiteline when the funds allow. I have the whiteline rear solid DPs and Adj ARB.

S!

:D

We wentr to fit these at the weekend and after buying OE Subaru bolts (none supplied with the hardrace kit) and by passengers front drop (split capp) needing attention.
1st problem was the bolts not long enough after we had removed the OE drop linkso it was the case of find a blt and fit a solid one and leave the drivers' side OE.

So all fitted and after a wee drive home i noticed that the steering wheel felt abit notchy at low speeds?!

Is it because the front drops are differrent or am I looking something more serious?

S!

You must check for clearance on the steering tie rod arms when the car is at ride height (with passengers) and from lock to lock. It is all too easy to just see the clearances when the car is static and wheels dead ahead.
There should be a lot of clearance, say 25mm as subaru would not like large stones wedging between the suspension components etc!

So that could be the problem, not enough clearance!

think I will just need to go back to OE stuff, pishy Hardrace parts!! lol

Thats what happens when you try and save a buck or 2!

Thanks Graham once again.
S!

I had exactly the same problem, but what I found is that the hard race stuff is designed for steel wishbones and my WRX had alloy wishbones. You need the rose jointed ones that came with the car. I have no clearance problems, just that the bushes are trying to pull themselves out of the links. Mocom do some noltec ones for £50 that include a spherical joint which I'll probably end up getting Mocom Racing - Performance car and trackday products (http://www.mocomracing.com/product_details.asp?id=175&cat=4&sub=35) as this is a good cheap alternative.

Is that the notchy feeling you feel turning the wheel?

Might just go with the Whiteline ones as I have the whiteline rears.

Thanks
S!

I'm guessing so as these are not supposed to sit straight and theres no movement in them like you get with the original rose jointed ones. Also I suspect there's some play as the bolt holes in the wishbone and ARB are all M10 and one of the bolt holes in the drop link is only M8 so they will probably move.

I've just fitted new shock, spings and adjustable top mounts, so when I fit these links and get the wheel alignment done I expect a monster transformation.

BTW, I got a great discount from Demon Tweeks on some Whiteline top mounts. Search in group buys for it.

Whiteline ones work.
Everything Whiteline works!

Why use anything else?

On such a loaded item as a drop link you can't get away with an M8 in a 10mm dia hole; it will work loose and ovalise the hole.

Whitelines are just under £80 including next day delivery from Demon Tweeks, just ordered mine.