Hi Guys.

Want to put a door in my garage into the house. My mate who lives round the corner has started, just wondered if what hes doing is ok? so i can copy.

The Wall is them really light blocks with Dot and Dab on the other side.
The Joists run from wall to wall and its not a supporting wall. Hes noked throught and needs to now install a Metal beam on the top, but does this have to be in the middle of at the edge of the brick? if the edge shoudl it be the edge in the garge or the house? does it need cemented in? were tryign to keep to regulations so if we sell it wont be a night mare

Once thats in i assume that the frame can be fitted with Anti Fire Seals and Door....

pix of what hes done so far

http://www.andyrg.me.uk/pix/1.jpg
http://www.andyrg.me.uk/pix/2.jpg
http://www.andyrg.me.uk/pix/3.jpg

Why not use a proper galvanised lintel, available from builder's merchants, wickes etc?

Alcazar

I've had someone in to look at moving my garage/house door fromm utility room to hallway (long story!) - plus my brother has done this at his old house. You will need a 'fire' door plus you will find that the garage floor has to be below that of the house (at least that's the regs. in Cornwall). That's the extent of my knowledge sorry ......

Dave

step sorted garage sits 4" lower then the house, fire door i have and a fire door frame ;)


Cheers Guys

The lintel needs to be the width of the blocks (I'm assuming 100mm). Just a 100mm spanlite will do - it shouldn't necessary to have a metal lintel. Allow ~150mm each side for bearing. Just pop the lintel in and point it up fully.

Without looking it up, I've a feeling it should be a 1 hour fire door between a house and a garage. If that's the case, you will need a hardwood casing, and hour doors usually have both smoke seals and an intumescent strip.

John.

Hi
Get a proper lintle. id chop out enough so that you can put something like a chopped down flagstone. Those blocks are thermolite, like chalk.. the sit the lintle on the chopped up flagstone point up and fit your frame. This is just how id do the job:thumb:

cheers guys....

appreciate your help

don't go for a stone lintel - use a lightweight one. they're cheap enough and easy to fit. if you don;t add the lintel, then the only thing holding up the block(s) above will be the door frame. it may not be likely to deflect as blocks are not all that heavy, but it is good practice to use a lintel

as john_s says, i think the required fire rating for the garage door is 1 hour - don't miss out the intumescent seals as the door and frame won't be rated to 1 hour if do!

just to clarify what you said above - when you say the joists above run from wall to wall, do you mean across thew width of the garage (ie the shortest span)? is your door going to be at one end of the garage rather than along one of the side walls?

Yes I have the intumescent seals and a 2 hour door.

I have a Steel Lintal for the roof, that i nee dto cut down only 6" but the blocks are 8", i will posisition this in the middle.

regarding joists, yes they run from the shorest wall to wall, the door will be straight oppersite the garage door.

Cheers Guys

I have a Steel Lintal for the roof, that i nee dto cut down only 6" but the blocks are 8", i will posisition this in the middle.


what are you cutting?

The Thinsulate Blocks, is what im cutting

But the Lintals 5 foor long so need to trim it down a bit

here are soem stages and competions.

http://www.andyrg.me.uk/albums/album03/Door1.sized.jpg
http://www.andyrg.me.uk/albums/album03/door2.sized.jpg
http://www.andyrg.me.uk/albums/album03/door3.sized.jpg
http://www.andyrg.me.uk/albums/album03/door4.sized.jpg

Im happy and the house is still standing ;)

Wahoo Pix now work