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PC issue - any ideas?

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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #2  
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I suspect either your RAM, PSU or CPU have gone. Most likely the PSU. Is it a el-cheapo, no-name version, or a decent make? This is quite a common mistake, some people spend £1,000's on their PC and £20 on a shoddy PSU - madness!!

I would start by running several tests....

1 - Memtest.... http://www.memtest.org/#downiso

2 - SuperPi..... http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=36

3 - Prime95.... http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=103

Memtest will tell you without doubt if your memory is done. The other 2 are damn good for testing your CPU. Run a 1M run of SuperPi and then a Torture Test in Prime95. If you pass these, there's not a lot wrong with the CPU.

Then I would install and run a monitoring app, like either....

1 - PCWizard.... http://www.cpuid.com/pcwizard.php

2 - Everest.... http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

And use it to monitor your voltages. 10% above or below is fine, much outside that and you need a new PSU. Keep a close eye on +12v, +5v and +3.3v lines.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 11:48 PM
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as above really but just to add, this may be of use

http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/

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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:33 AM
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try the graphics card, a work colleague has had very similar issues to yourself, also with a radeon 9800 pro. Sometimes it would hang at boot with nothing on the display (keyboard would light up and discs would spin up), othertimes it would boot up and could be stable for ages then just lock up or it could be minutes.
Luckily he had a nforce 2 (amd) msi mobo and it has a diagnostic connector that lights up (did actually say it was a floppy disc controller error though ), only found out it was the graphics card when we removed it and used the onboard vga
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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To test your disks, you would be best to use the manufacturer's own utility. Most of them will tell you whether or not the drive is working as it should, and some suggest how to repair....

IBM

Maxtor

SAMSUNG

Seagate

WesternDigital

Last edited by D16GER; Oct 10, 2006 at 07:13 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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Try a back to basics repair. Remove anything non essential to get the PC to boot. If that works, reinstall 1 thing at a time, and stop when it becomes unstable. Bear in mind you may have more than 1 faulty component, so dont chuck it all back in at once if you find something!
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 08:54 PM
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Have you got a spare PSU you can try?

Also, can you try it with the board outside the case, just in case it's shorting on something?
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 11:52 PM
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TBH wattage doesn't mean diddly squat. I have a 480w in my main and a 300w in my other system.

The 300w is almost as powerful as the 480w, due to the efficiency of it's design.

In fact I have seen 600w PSU's that don't pack the punch my 300w does.

Look for the amps it provides on the individual rails, that is the key. Make sure it is strong on the +12 and +5v rails.

You will probably find the old PSU was quite powerful, even though it has very low wattage.

I suggest you disconnect EVERYTHING bar the following....

1 stick of RAM
GFX card
1 HDD
1 Optical drive

...then see if you still get the crashes. If you do, try the old PSU, it should power that few components, even if for just long enough to diagnose the fault.

I really am leaning towards the PSU being at fault now. Especially given the randomness of the errors. Can you tell me the readout of the +12v, +5v and +3.3v lines?

Last edited by D16GER; Oct 10, 2006 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 08:33 AM
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If you arent even getting a display at initial boot then I would disconnect all power, turn the pc on (obviously it wont but it will discharge the capacitors) and then reset the cmos and try again.
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 01:00 PM
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Does sound psu related, have seen this before, remove any hardware you dont need as it may be dragging the available current down, bit like in Apollo 13, the key here was you said hard disks, so at least two and probably a couple of optical drives, might just be too much for the PSU ?

Had it at work, machine kept failing at the same time each night, went through it numerous times, it seemed centered on the backups but nothing had changed, then we realised some extra disks had been added, the failure was due the backups kicking in, powering the tape drives up at the same time as all the hard disks, this tipped the psu over the edge and the thing conked and then rebooted, all scripted so it came back up.

We realised and added extra power supply capacity and it was fine after that.

Turn off anything you aren't using in the bios, like floppy controllers, serial and parallel ports, onboard sound, onboard vga - if present.

Just run with your boot drive.

Is it cooling properly, it's a P4 it will slow down before it crashes (Athlons just bun if too hot), so does it get sluggish before it stops ?

It sounds like there is a heat issue there, is there thermal paste on the cpu/cooler ?

try a basic graphics card

Just get a new mb, they arent that dear nowadays, Ebay may turn something up, I have just retired an Athlon Machine to the loft with an Epox 8KHA board that has been on for 5 years without a single problem that wasn't virus related. My 2.8 P4 doesnt seem any quicker than the AMD and I think thats partially down to the no name motherboard in the Intel machine, Intel may well do reference designs but the overclockers always use stuff like Abit, Asus etc, basically anything that is built to get overclocked will be over engineered for use at standard clock speeds.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 10:07 PM
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The Chieftec I would imagine should be better. Look at the labels on the side of both. You should see ratings for +12v, +5v and +3.3v. These will be in amps, eg: +12v - 18a

Whichever has more amps will obviously provide more power.

Also look at the total power available. Should be on the same label.

Oh and yes, those small changes are irrelevant.

Just out of interest, can you not see the +12v readout? If not, can you run Everest and check it? It is quite important.

EDIT: - almost forgot, a quick test of a quality PSU is weight. If it's really light and tinny chances are it's crap.

Last edited by D16GER; Oct 12, 2006 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Don't worry about it not reporting the +12v. That's just the way the sensors are installed on the motherboard. Some support monitoring the +12, some don't. My AV8 board doesn't report it either.

The rest of your voltages seem to be fine. Only thing would slightly concern me is the Maxtor HDD temp. 43c seems quite high. Although, given that most HDD's max temp is around 60c, it should be ok.

Glad to hear all is running well atm. Hope it stays that way.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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You could also try giving the memory a small increase in voltage. Fo example, if it is set at 1.6v, raise it to 1.7, that may help stabilise it.

Also, with regard to the HDD's, have you ran the manufacturer's utilities yet? They will tell you the health status of the drives.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 02:19 PM
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In the bios, you may or may not have the option, depending on the motherboard. If you have it, it's simply a case of raising it by 0.1v.

If it's not there, then possibly it can be adjusted by a dipswitch on the motherboard itself, but I doubt it.

What mobo is it? I can have a look for you.

EDIT - see it on the Everest screen above, will look now
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 02:27 PM
  #28  
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Typical Intel board, I don't see any option to adjust the voltages. It must be auto set.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 02:33 PM
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No probs, let me know how you get on
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