Got a Boilermate II system but just lately it has started making some weird noises, In the morning after it has been on for approx 1/1.5hours it starts to make like a drilling type sound but not at the boiler or the tank,but stops after a minute or so.

If i turn the pump speed up from 1 to 3 the noise increases and defo sounds like the pipe work, the return pipe feels like its got a vibration through it.
Its then fine all day then on the night it may make a high pitched humming sound which can turn into the drilling type noise.

The system is 5 years old and is oil fed, anybody got any ideas?? as i have drained the system, bled the rads all to no avail :(

You don't have Thermostatic rad valves by any chance as it sounds like you have one on back to front which is causing the noise when it tries to shut but can't and so bounces on the seating.

Mog

Mog,

Many thanks for your reply and YES thermostatic valves are fitted to all but 2 of the rads. I looked at all the therms and all except 1 are fitted on the right hand side of the rad!! I presume they should fitted on the right when standing infront of the rad?

As i see it i would need to drain the system off to be able to swop the therm over to the RH side, But to save me doing this if i remove the therm off the rad as thats straight forward just unscrew it,would this be ok to see if it works before i drain and start messing with the pipes ! ?

Cheers Andy

You can't assume that the valve has to be on the right hand end, it will depend on how the rad was plumbed.

Most TRVs need to be on the supply end. You can check which is which by letting the system cool right down, then switching on and feeling at which end the pipes get hot first.

Some modern valves, (Wickes for example) can be fitted on supply or return, simply by changing the orientation of the valve. They have an arrow on the valve part to show direction of flow. I had to change one of mine (Danfoss:( )yesterday as it stopped sealing at all, and the room was over hot. £6.49 plus an hour's work.

Alcazar

alcazar, thanx for the info tried what you said about the supply end and my therm was fiitted the opposite end !!
So at the minute Mogs suggestion looks like a winner (touch wood)
I have now removed the therm from the rad and if i dont get any noise over the next week i may drain off and swop ends over.(i take it im ok to do this?) as it will create same effect as changing the ends over..........?

Also does it make any difference at what speed the pumps run at? (return and feed i think they are)

I'm not actually a plumber, but I'm pretty sure that if you remove the thermostat from the valves, the system runs at full on, controlled only by any boiler/wall/cylinder stats you may have.

See if it stops the noise, if it does, try Mog's solution of swapping the valves from one end to another.

Might be an idea to check that the valves are on the correct end of all the rads while you're at it.

Alcazar

I'm not actually a plumber, but I'm pretty sure that if you remove the thermostat from the valves, the system runs at full on, controlled only by any boiler/wall/cylinder stats you may have.

See if it stops the noise, if it does, try Mog's solution of swapping the valves from one end to another.

Might be an idea to check that the valves are on the correct end of all the rads while you're at it.

AlcazarCorrect, with TRV head removed valve is fully open (if not stuck!). Some modern TRVs will work any way around and have double ended arrows marked on them. The TRV valve body (The shiny chrome bit) should have an arrow cast on it. (It may be on the back). This marks the direction of flow needed through the valve, so you need to check the flow, NOT which end the TRV is on. It can be fitted either end as long as the flow in the rad is in the direction of the arrow.

PS If your Boilermate is running in the middle of the night, it may be wired wrong. On the whole they don't run at all once the heating is off, until the next morning start up. Is Boilermate set up so it is the controlling stat, not the Boiler stat?

HTH

Steve W

Greatlink in other post by the way, Wheelwright.
http://www.hotwaterlimited.co.uk/boilermate2.htm

Right where shall i start........ Went round and checked the flow side of the rads,
It appeared that 6 of the TRVs were fitted the wrong side, not flow
side, and i thought oh sh!te gonna have to change all these around...........
BUT after reading Steve PPP post and checking the body for which arrows are
on them, 5 of the TRV's have the double ended arrows, so they can go either
end of the rad.

BUT 1 TRV fitted has only the single arrow(pointing up) and this is fitted on
the none flow end!!! I feel very confident now that this IS the one playing
up!!! I did remove the top portion of this TRV yesterday and have had no noises!!

Steve PPP the only thing that fires up at night is the boiler as its in the garage
temp drops in there and it fires up, which is what its supposed to do??
No probs with the boilermate through the night.
I hope the link helps sort the other guys fault out but i should have realised
Scoobynet would give me the answer to my problem!! LOL

alcazar, Steve PPP Thank you both for your help. :luxhello:

Mog a special thank you as you found the fault! :notworthy

Nobody did say if its best to run the pumps on the boilermate @ speeds 1,2 or 3
so any others??

Steve PPP the only thing that fires up at night is the boiler as its in the garage
temp drops in there and it fires up, which is what its supposed to do??
No probs with the boilermate through the night.

alcazar, Steve PPP Thank you both for your help. :luxhello:

Mog a special thank you as you found the fault! :notworthy

Nobody did say if its best to run the pumps on the boilermate @ speeds 1,2 or 3
so any others??
Sounds like boiler has a frost stat, so OK.

Pump speeds are set-up based on a 10 degree centigrade drop across the flow and return, IIRC. So no set speed for them, it is all a question of balancing the system. You need to set both pumps seperately based on the temperatures.
To balance the rads you also aim for a 10 deg drop across each rad. Unfortunately you need a differential thermometer to set them all properly! And it takes ages to do it properly.

Steve W