Having trouble stopping leaks and need some suggestions please.

Fully tiled enc, built from 3 walls stud and one brick, Aluminium bi-fold door. Stone tray bedded on mortar and marine ply. Grouted with epoxy grout.

Basically the floor is flexing (although you wouldn't think so) and cracking the grout at the tile/tray interface. I don't particularly want to have to rebuild it but I can't stop it leaking. Don't like using Silicon as that goes mouldy.

I've looked at "tanking" but that will require re-tiling at the very least, I’ve also looked at "showerwall" possibly applying it over the existing tiles.

Anyone been here before, what did you do ?

Allan

Allan

Why not silicon? Had the same problem a few times and generally use a fresh tube of clear silicon thus seems almost unnoticeable, yet given the area is dry and clean prior to applications, it stays down for years without getting mouldy. The only time it gets mouldy is when water gets in underneath so if you do a good prep job and then a good sealing job, what's the problem. It's certainly, by farm the cheapest and easiest...

^^^^^
What he said.

I have three showers in this house, all three in use, one built over 20 years ago,
All were silicon sealed, none have gone mouldy.

Alcazar

this is a problem we see in new houses all the time...or at least until we started using coram shower trays with the tiling upstands anyway. we would usually strip all the mastic and get it replaced by a professional sealant bloke. we have never had problems with mould on mastic put in professionally - obviously mine at home wasn't professionally done by the previous owners as I can;t get rid of the mould! (time for a new bathroom i think)

btw, when you seal a bath, you fill it up first (so it's at its heaviest and the top of the bath is therefore as far from the underside of the tiling as it should be for its lifespan). same applies to a shower as far as is possible - ie put some weight on the tray as well as standing in it before its sealed

Thanks chaps,

I discounted the Silicon as it never seemed to work for me, even though I've made sure the surface is clean and dry.

richardg, do you know what sealant they use ?

Allan

varies i think, depending on the contractor. all major brand types though - no B&Q or Homebase own etc
i note where you are - try calling mr mastic (steve miller) on 07775 721121 [tiptree, but works all over essex]
he goes to the effort of making a small indentation to match the joints between each of the tiles the mastic sits next to. we regularly use him at work and i will be using him in my new bathroom at home

Thanks for the info.

On closer inspection I think it might be getting between where the two walls meet, amazing what you can fix with Duck Tape :D

http://www.555subaru.co.uk/CIMG2577.JPG

Thanks for the info.

On closer inspection I think it might be getting between where the two walls meet, amazing what you can fix with Duck Tape :D

http://www.555subaru.co.uk/CIMG2577.JPG

Vertical corner joints should always be sealed with mastic.

mog

:eek: so Duck Tape is no good then ;) :D

Allan

allan, i'd call mr mastic if i were you. get him to strip all the mastic in the bathroom and replace it completely - will cost you a few quid, but should be worth it in the long run and his work is very neat & tidy
duck tape is very versatile but probably doesn't look all that great!

Make sure you use a good silicon sealant- the Screwfix stuff I used on my shower was crap, didn't stick to the stone-resin shower tray, but stuck like sh1t to a blanket to the aluminium frame! I bought some Evo-Stick alternative (from Screwfix too) and it's the dogs!

Thanks SNS, evo stick stuff noted.

richardg, I don't currently have any mastic at all, I assume that the normal procedure for a new build would be to grout everything and then mastic the joints. Or are you saying that for the joints you would just mastic without grouting.

Removing the epoxy grout is going to be virtually impossible, it's very hard.

Cheers

no mastic! :eek:

that's most likely the problem then. grout and even "flexible" grout won't move enough to deal with the required tolerances. you could probably seal over the top of the grout, but you'd only be sealing any existing moisture in. if i were you i'd get a dremel, with a grout removing tool (small drill bit with a rest/guide for ensuring same depth when you cut the grout out) and then get it sealed.

never seen a shower with no mastic before. seen a few where only the wall/tray joints were sealed and not the tile/tile vertical joints, but that's usually less of a potential problem than the wall/tray joints

btw (forgot to answer your question), we would grout all tile joints with the exception of the vertical tile/tile joints and the tray/tile joints. the mastic man would then seal all other gaps

dude, real proper pukka silicone should not go mouldy... if you buy the "nice smelling" non-silicone stuff instead - it will go mouldy....


deliberately shop for stuff that clearly says silicone on the tube - no probs then..... just done my leaking shower and it's fab now....


Mikey :)

btw (forgot to answer your question), we would grout all tile joints with the exception of the vertical tile/tile joints and the tray/tile joints. the mastic man would then seal all other gaps

OK, that makes sense. Might have to invest in a Dremel then.

Cheers

Been thinking about this a bit more.
We've now established that my problem is not using Mastic, however, I just don't think I'm going to get that epoxy grout out. The Dremel de-grouter looks like it's for use on the flat rather than in the corners, how effective would a normal grinding bit in a Dremel be ?

This epoxy stuff sets like concrete, anybody any suggestions on how to remove it ?

Allan

you could use the dremel with the grout removing tool, but without the guide thingy. alternatively, you could try a coathanger, a nail, an old screwdriver (flat), etc etc. it's going to take a while though!
you could try sealing it yourself and hoping it dries out behind the mastic ok. there is a change this will lift the mastic, but if you've done the work yourself then you don't have much to lose other than 30mins and a new tube of mastic

Having trouble stopping leaks and need some suggestions please.

Fully tiled enc, built from 3 walls stud and one brick, Aluminium bi-fold door. Stone tray bedded on mortar and marine ply. Grouted with epoxy grout.

Basically the floor is flexing (although you wouldn't think so) and cracking the grout at the tile/tray interface. I don't particularly want to have to rebuild it but I can't stop it leaking. Don't like using Silicon as that goes mouldy.

I've looked at "tanking" but that will require re-tiling at the very least, I’ve also looked at "showerwall" possibly applying it over the existing tiles.

Anyone been here before, what did you do ?

Allan

fit showers all the time ... always use silicon... have done so for ever.... no problems.... you must use a good quality anti fungal sanitary type...use this and some pvcu architrave to cover cracking flexing area....local window company good place to get stuff..... what ever you do dont lick your fingger to smooth silicon down... its the siliva that gets trapped in it that goes mouldy not the silicon ... use washin up liquid and water to smooth:thumb:

... its the siliva that gets trapped in it that goes mouldy not the silicon ...
Top Tip.

Didn't know that, and I've been sealing showers and baths for over 20 years. Could have saved me a lot of mither.:luxhello:

Steve W