Basic query, but how is the camber adjusted on a classic?
On my other car the shock absorber flange (where it is mounted to the hub) has two oval holes which allows the adjustment.
Trouble is, its difficult to get this set up correctly locally (even by so called experts)
Wondered if it is possible to fit some eibachs without having this problem, or is it enevitable? Daz

You are doomed to having the car aligned if fitting the springs and if you want the best out of the car!
911

So essentially its the same then ?

scoobs have eccentric camber bolts on the front struts, so yes you just fiddle with them until you get the camber you want (assuming thats within adjustment range - should get -1 degree on std bolts). Rears are std bolts so have to change for camber bolts if you want them cambered also (recommended). Powerstation are the experts.... (they can also do the bumpsteer mod - search for details). Springs are irrelavent to this, although ever change to suspension will require realignment

FYI, rear camber bolts can be had for £25 (pair) from Camskill.

What exactly is a camber bolt?

It's a bolt where there is an offset part on the top of the shaft so that when you turn it the top moves relative to the main shaft. The strut is held to the hub by 2 bolts - the top one is the camber bolt. If you take it off then it will all be obvious.

If it is just the top one then that helps loads. On my other car both bolts are able to move in the shock absorber flanges which causes no end of setting up problems. Thanks, Daz

Daz,

Are you planning on setting camber yourself? I doubt very much you'll get both sides the same without all the laser gear the garages use. You should find somewhere local to do the whole geometry as its not specialist. I paid £80 at a local tyre place.

Bob

I agree with Bob. I tried to do the camber settings myself (with the aid of a gauge) and found it very difficult to get them the same. You also need a completely flat surface to work on. I eventually gave up and went to a garage

Matthew

Thing is, I've just lowered my other car and set the camber up close enough to get me to the garage to get it done professionally. It was pretty close to be fair and drove quite well, as I marked it before I removed it.

Took it to the garage and waited 4 hours (+a day off work too) and I am not kidding, there must have been 40mm difference between top of wheel on one side and the other. I only noticed when home, phoned and they had another go at it (more time off). They used a proper machine and the printout settings looked within tolerances, but the thing still just didn't look right, with one side having more neg camber than other. It drove badly too, steering heavier one way, and returning quicker.

Reluctant to go back again, I measured off the wing (ok I know) an 8mm difference which was clearly visable. I pulled it back 8mm and now it looks right and drives much better.

Sorry to go on but I just wanted to anticipate any problems I may have fitting the eibachs on my scoob. Daz

you are obviously using the wrong type of "professionals"!!!!!!!!!!!!

we currently have a "makinen" in the w/shop that had a 4-wheel alignment (by kwik-f*&k it) before it came to us for the run-in engine to be checked/mapped........................so far out it was off the scale!!
its all very well having all the right fancy gear but complete waste of time unless you know how to calibrate and use it!!

alyn

Agreed.

Fordrabidtwit. Waste of money monkeys.