Anyone recommend decent discs and pads for GSXR 600X. Not too bothered about improving performance too much, just want some that'll do a good job and not too expensive. Have braided hoses on the bike, does this limit my choice!!!!!

why do you need new disks. Are they warped , as a new sety are serious money ?.

I'm using Carbone Loraine SBK3 pads and they are one of the better pads available.

I ride a ZX6R which has the Tokico 6 pot calipers (prob the same as yours)

They are prone to seizing when riden in salty conditions and the only way to restore them is to strip them and remove the salt crystals which form behind the seals and stop the pistons from working.

I do this before attempting to replace the discs and pads. My bike will lift the back wheel at a ton with these brakes. They are very good withg plenty of feel if they are maintained properly.

Ash

Don't I know it'll cost me because the discs are warped.

Has been giving a little shudder under braking for a while. Final straw was at the weekend, just a little hairy under heavy braking.

Also have Tokico 6 pots but with HEL braided hoses.

Thought about EBC discs and pads, seem to have a good reputation for good performing and value brakes. Just wanted to know other peoples experience before I spend probably £250+ on something heavily relied on.

Don't I know it'll cost me because the discs are warped.

Has been giving a little shudder under braking for a while. Final straw was at the weekend, just a little hairy under heavy braking.

Also have Tokico 6 pots but with HEL braided hoses.

Thought about EBC discs and pads, seem to have a good reputation for good performing and value brakes. Just wanted to know other peoples experience before I spend probably £250+ on something heavily relied on.

The cause of the warpage is that the rotors don't have many buttons connecting it to the carrier on the wheel. When the rotor is heated under braking, they can't dispate the heat effectively, and when you stop, the pad covers part of the rotor and it cools at a different rate to whats exposed in the air.
This is also exacerbated by pistons sticking - When the brakes are applied, the pad doesn't connect with the rotor squarely. They cant the pad over onto its leading or trailing edge which superheats the pad and also the rotor.

Also as the calipers are solid on the leg, they rely on the pistons moving back and forth freely to absorb the runout of the rotors, This knocks the pads back a fraction when the brakes are released to stop them rubbing continuously. If they can't go back they rub and put heat into the rotor all the time.

This combination is why they are prone to warpage.

Read this guide I wrote for the MCNNinjas as this comes up on a regular basis with the Kawasaki 6s and 9s. http://www.mcnninjas.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1092

It does sound like yours are basket cases (one or both), but I'd get them checked with a DTI first . You may only need to replace one with like for like, but you will be throwing good money after bad if sticking calipers caused this and they are not seen to !.

Ash

Ash is right. But then, he often is.

Welcome back, by the way!

If you're replacing the pads and discs then get two sets of SBS Carbon pads. They are real carbon and they are the dog's bollox. What you need to do is make sure the discs are absolutely clean (or brand new) and then ride fairly hard on the first set of pads for about 15-20 minutes. Then stop and take the pads out of the calipers. Be careful, they get very hot indeed. Put in the second set and do the same again, putting the first back in. The pads will have left a thin deposit of carbon on the disc, and taking the pads out will have allowed them to heat cycle properly. You now have something approaching carbon brakes, but with the added advantage that the iron disc makes them work at normal temperatures as well.

Before you do any of this, though, I'd change your brake fluid and strip, clean, and lube the calipers to make sure it doesn't keep happening.

If you're changing discs thentry wavy ones. Not much more money, look trick, supposed to be less prone to warping and save some unsprung weight as well...

SB

If you're serious about a replacement set of discs and pads, then I can recommend either:

EBC Pro-lite discs with either a set of standard (organic) EBC pads, with the option to upgrade to HH sintered pads (if you need more performance).

If you're after serious performance (but not long pad life)...

Braking 'Wave' discs with a set of matched pads. These'll probably work out cheaper than buying OE discs.

G

PS. I've got the EBC Pro-lite set-up on my NC30 and I've used wave discs on a Gixxer6...

God points about keeping everything clean and in tip-top condition... Need to find the cause of warpage first...

Braking Wave Discs will be cheaper than OE discs, also a company called galfer make wavey discs aswell. If you get front and rear wavey discs, use the companies own front pads, but use standard rear pads as this will give you the best results. As for your other question, braided hoses won't limit your choice at all.

Welcome back, by the way!



Cheers Simon, I got lost in translation when the new site came online and needed admin to sort my access rights out. I drifted away but now I'm back :D

How much are these SBS pads per caliper ?

Ash

Ash, you can get them from Crescent Suzuki starting at £18.99 each side. They're actually cheaper than OEM pads...

SB